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Jet Flex paint (water based) cost?

Pmerems

Well Known Member
Advertiser
Gents,

What is the cost of Jet Flex water based paint for interior painting? Quart?

Thanks,

Paul
 
JFWB$$

I think it was about $46/ qt. Not cheap, but I like it. It took about a quart and a half for the interior.

Jim
 
Jet Flex WB

I'm getting close to spraying my interior with SW Jet Flex WB, QB's have a Sherwin Williams wash primer already applied, do I need to prime with something else, or just scuff with scotch brite and clean? I have primed all of the loose panels with SW 988 aerosol. I assume that is compatible. I've searched for instructions and haven't found much.
I know several others have used this paint with good results, I would like a few comments about paint prep.

Thanks!
 
Talk to the Experts

Best bet is to talk to the SW distributor. For my epoxy, they suggested a good scuff and clean and it seems to be sticking well. Make sure you clean your stuff quickly; this paint really sticks once dry.

Jim
 
Jetflex paint

I've used this paint for the interior of my RV7. I had some of my interior already primed with Azko a two part epoxy primer. I tried some samples and found the following:
With the Azko primer just scuff with the red scotch brite pad and clean with naptha.
For bare aluminum I just scuffed and cleaned with either naptha, alumiprep, or my favorite Dawn dishwashing detergent then paint. I did not use any primer on the bare metal.
Both samples came out the same. The paint dries quickly if its warm say 70 or higher and can be wet sanded with 1500-2000 grit if there is any over spray. The paint seems to be tough and bet of all you can clean up with water.

I ordered my Jetflex with a satin finish and it cost $100/ gal.
 
Word of caution painting over the SW primer that the QB comes with, I used this exact stuff, P60 G2 something something and vans confirms its the same as the QB, the can says to topcoat within 4 hrs. I found that this stuff gets very hard and slick, and I topcoated months later and guess what....I just got done stripping all my interior...what a mess. I suppose if you dont mind redoing the paint down the road I could have left it but I want something that I am not compromising with right off the start. I am not sure what you could do except wipe it off with acetone and start over with the prep and paint process to insure as good adhesion as possible. Scuffing this stuff seems not so good. I sure wish I had just used zinc chromate/oxide as anything I had that one stuck just fine.
anyway my 2 cents
still figuring my next move on painting my own interior.
 
N282RV said:
Word of caution painting over the SW primer that the QB comes with, I used this exact stuff, P60 G2 something something and vans confirms its the same as the QB, the can says to topcoat within 4 hrs. I found that this stuff gets very hard and slick, and I topcoated months later and guess what....I just got done stripping all my interior...what a mess. I suppose if you dont mind redoing the paint down the road I could have left it but I want something that I am not compromising with right off the start. I am not sure what you could do except wipe it off with acetone and start over with the prep and paint process to insure as good adhesion as possible. Scuffing this stuff seems not so good. I sure wish I had just used zinc chromate/oxide as anything I had that one stuck just fine.
anyway my 2 cents
still figuring my next move on painting my own interior.
Jeremy-
Out of curiosity, did you scuff the old primer and shoot a new thin coat of primer over the old before you topcoated? The new thin coat should etch into the old to give a good foundation for the finish. From what I understand, the primer serves two purposes in helping the paint bond well: 1. it promotes a "mechanical" bond with the topcoat by providing texture (more surface area) and 2. it provides a "chemical" bond with the topcoat--in a sense, the primer and topcoat mix slightly where they meet. The latter can only be achieved while the primer is still fresh--usually it's a very short window. Thus, if you didn't re-shoot a thin primer coat that may have been what caused your problem. I'm not a paint expert, by any stretch though, so take this FWIW. Good luck.
 
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I tried to scuff the old primer on some test pieces and it didnt seem to take very well. If I remember correctly it says not to spray over a coat of the primer however I think that maybe that would be the only way to reopen the primer to allow the chemical bond to the topcoat.
My test pieces didnt seem all that bad so I sprayed on and thus created the mess I had to deal with. I am planning on priming and painting all in one long "session" so that the windows are open for the chemical "grab".
 
S/W Jet Flex dealers?

Does anyone know of a dealer that will sell Sherwin
Williams aircraft paint without requiring you to open
a commercial account?


Pat
RV-8 S/B
85% done!! shopping for radioes
 
Other helpful tips

Pat,

I'm not sure about the water base paint, but they were very helful in giving info (not on SW sheets) on applying. For the expoxy primers they sent me some information. Basically, the ideal application temp is between 80 to 90 degrees, with acceptable down to 70F. Also, aways have at least a 10 degree difference between the dewpoint and actual temp. I think the guy's name was Mike. He is very helpfu.

Dave
 
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