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Cable Tie Bonding?

R

RidiculousM

Well Known Member
What is the best way/method to go about attaching plastic cable ties to the interior of the fuselage for wire routing? Some type of really good double sided tape/epoxy/gorilla glue? Any thoughts or ideas would be great.

Thanks,
Mike
 
Shoe Goo

Peel the stickum off the back and glue them on with Shoe Goo
 
I don't trust the stickum a bit. I peel and scrape all the stickum off that I can and then get the rest off with MEK. Then rough them up with a sanding disk. I also drill several holes around the perimeter with a very small drill. Then epoxy them to the interior. Between the roughing up and the epoxy flowing up through the small holes I think this will be as permanent as possible. Be sure to prep the surface of the aluminum with scotch brite and clean well with your favorite agent (I use the same MEK).
 
SMO said:
Peel the stickum off the back and glue them on with Shoe Goo
Click to expand...

I used Goop Automotive Trim Adhesive, available at most auto parts stores. Just make sure to put a zip-tie I them before sticking them on. That way, if the adhesive tries to squeeze into one of the holes, you can pull the zip-tie out, opening up the hole.
 
Jeff A said:
Agreed. Click Bond fasteners using CB200 adhesive throughout the airplane.
Click to expand...

Also agree, its amazing stuff! If you don't want to drop the money and want something a little stronger then epoxy, Hysol will keep the in place until the airplane corrodes away. :D
 
For zip tie mounts on bulkheads, ribs, etc. I've been happy with these:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/cabletiemounts1.php?clickkey=296463

The ones designed for a #6 screw work well as intended, or with a #4 screw and washer, or with an LP4-3 pop rivet. Good solid installation with a single hard fastener. No adhesive required.

...

And for zip tie mounts in those few places where I really don't want to drill a hole, or don't want a fastener protruding on the other side (like on fuselage skins), ClickBond it is.
 
I used metal tie plates glued on with Locktite Depend adhesive.

972080.jpg


CMCP-211-2T.jpg


After 15-years, none have come off.
 
Kyle Boatright said:
Click Bond fasteners are great. Pricey, but great.
Click to expand...

Yep, Click Bonds as well. Started by buying a few and was so impressed I ended up using literally dozens of them. Fanstastic product. Never had any luck with the "self stick" el cheapos....eventually given enough time the el cheapos fail and leave your wires flailing around to abrade...not good.
 
Bonding zip tie anchors

Like others have said, remove adhesive that comes on them. Some white foamy stuff that will debond in fairly short order. Scuff up with sandpaper to remove shine and clean with MEK or your favorite more liver damaging free solvent. :)
Then my bonding agent of choice was JB Weld. Works absolutely super. I used to fly the Air Force C-17 cargo plane and noted that for wire bundles around the front main windshields above the trim, they used almost identical zip tie anchors (warm fuzzy) and the bonding agent was some hard medium gray substance. I just assumed something similar to JB Weld.

Give it a try and you will like it. Good luck.
 
Captain Avgas said:
Yep, Click Bonds as well. Started by buying a few and was so impressed I ended up using literally dozens of them. Fanstastic product. Never had any luck with the "self stick" el cheapos....eventually given enough time the el cheapos fail and leave your wires flailing around to abrade...not good.
Click to expand...

Another vote for Click-bonds...all sorts of fasteners, from studs to wire ties to "trees" to platenuts...used them in all sorts of places, and they work great. Just be sure to follow the cleaning/scuffing instructions, and use adhesive that isn't past its expiration date.

Good enough for flight vehicles going to Mars and Jupiter...probably good enough for an aircraft :)
 
Just To Make Sure

I just want to make sure I am looking at what everyone is talking about.
Aircraft Spruce you get 4 for 18.50 plus shipping.
That the ones?
 
roee said:
For zip tie mounts on bulkheads, ribs, etc. I've been happy with these:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/cabletiemounts1.php?clickkey=296463

The ones designed for a #6 screw work well as intended, or with a #4 screw and washer, or with an LP4-3 pop rivet. Good solid installation with a single hard fastener. No adhesive required.
Click to expand...

Here is a cheaper solution than ACS for these cable cradle tie mounts.
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70163706#tab=SimilarProducts

Twice as many for just about the same price.
 
RV6_flyer said:
I used metal tie plates glued on with Locktite Depend adhesive.

972080.jpg


CMCP-211-2T.jpg


After 15-years, none have come off.
Click to expand...

Are those Click Bond's made in the USA? I ask, because Gary has given a great recommendation [above] that seems to have gotten lost in the discussion about Click Bonds. Thomas & Betts is a great company. They make high quality tools for electricians and excellent parts.
I'm sure you can order these T&B anchors from Mouser, Digikey, etc. They are also available from your local industrial electrical outlet vendor. Look in the phone book or ask an electrician friend for his favorite vendor.
Charlie
PS It seems that Mouser and Digikey do not carry Thomas & Betts. Newark has them for under 20 cents apiece. See

http://www.newark.com/thomas-betts/tc-105/cable-tie-mtg-base-ty-rap-0-5-x/dp/12C2341

Someone on EBay is selling a 10 pack for $6.50 [that's over triple Newark's price. see

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thomas-Betts-TC-105-Aluminium-Ty-Wrap-Block-/110458782720
 
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bruceh said:
Here is a cheaper solution than ACS for these cable cradle tie mounts.
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70163706#tab=SimilarProducts

Twice as many for just about the same price.
Click to expand...

Great find, Bruce! I didn't even think to check Allied for these parts, and Allied is one of my favorite vendors. Bought much of my electormechanicals (switches, pots, connectors, etc.) from them. They stock a great selection of stuff, including milspec components, at a fraction of what you'd pay for the same item from the aviation specialty vendors. Only thing to be aware of, they do charge a handling fee for small orders as I recall.
 
Flying Scotsman said:
Another vote for Click-bonds...all sorts of fasteners, from studs to wire ties to "trees" to platenuts...used them in all sorts of places, and they work great. Just be sure to follow the cleaning/scuffing instructions, and use adhesive that isn't past its expiration date.

Good enough for flight vehicles going to Mars and Jupiter...probably good enough for an aircraft :)
Click to expand...

I am a recently retired avionics technician. I worked for Spacex in Hawthorne, CA, and we used Click Bonds to secure all of the wiring in the Falcon 1 and Falcon 9 rockets.
 
Sticky Back Cable Tie Mounting Base

I'm reading all this discussion about tie wrap mounting bases or plates and wondering why not just use the sticky backed cable tie mounting base sold in many hardware stores, Walmart, etc. Even Steinair sells them.

Does these hold long and secure for the wire runs in the fuselage behind the cargo bulkheed and up the center channel and along the forward floor?

I tested a couple on a piece of aluminum and it was really hard to get it off. Won't these hold?

If not seems like the cradle tie base with #6 screw and nut is next simple solution.
 
Steve, the ones I got at HD had a #6 size screw hole. I used the self stick back to place it and make sure it was in the right place, then used a stainless screw and lock nut to fasten it for good. I only used the stainless because that is what I had, but they worked great. My worry was if the aluminum got hot from the sun or whatever, the self sticky back would not hold.
 
They'll hold just fine... until your plane sits in the sun and gets good and toasty warm inside. Then the adhesive used on most of them will just let go.

I've attached them with screws also, but if you need to stick them to the skin a guy could probably replace that sticky foam tape with some automotive trim adhesive. You know the stuff; it's used to attach plastic bits, logos and emblems to the outside of your car. It's the devil's own to get off. Automotive paint shops should have it, or I'm sure it's not hard to find on line.
 
sglynn said:
I'm reading all this discussion about tie wrap mounting bases or plates and wondering why not just use the sticky backed cable tie mounting base sold in many hardware stores, Walmart, etc. Even Steinair sells them.

Does these hold long and secure for the wire runs in the fuselage behind the cargo bulkheed and up the center channel and along the forward floor?

I tested a couple on a piece of aluminum and it was really hard to get it off. Won't these hold?

If not seems like the cradle tie base with #6 screw and nut is next simple solution.
Click to expand...

The stick on ones don't last.

This is what worked for me. First stick them on with the adhesive base after sanding and removing the primer from the bonding area. Then, apply Amazing Goop to the perimeter of the base. Every one of my has held for many years using this method.
 
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Click Bond

I selected the self sticks but removed the adhesive with some naphtha and sanded. Then, used either proseal or windshield adhesive. Both are a pain, costly and lost/wasted adhesive. I did not select the Click Bond due to cost, but it was a bad choice in retrospect (cost wise). They will stick forever, though.


So - for you click bond users, what is/are the recommendation(s) for being able to use one or two mounts at a time to minimize the cost and wasted adhesive? Packets? or several self mixing ends, or . . . .
 
Packets

I bought and used the little packets. IIRC each packet holds enough for 4 bases.
 
I went with the bag of self-adhesive zip tie mounts from Home Depot. None have come off and I think the key is the following :

1) Clean the area well.
- I used acetone followed by a wipe with naphtha.

2) Don't overload the mount
- The bag has the specifications for loading these things, and it's surprisingly small (i.e. like 3oz max). I also routed the cables such that they naturally fell on top of the zip tie mount.

Good luck!

-Brad
 
I bought the ones without adhesive on them. They had a small hole just the right size for a pop rivet. I pop riveted almost all of them. The ones I couldnt, I used Locktight CA adhesive. I tested the CA on a piece of aluminum and after 24 hrs, I broke the plastic trying to pull it off. I have a model airplane I built 20 years ago and the CA is still holding excellent.
 
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