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Grass Strip/Homesite Planning

crabandy

Well Known Member
Looking for advice in planning our Grass Strip/Homesite, it's 660'x2640' (40acres longways north) and relatively flat. I'm trying to draw up my proposal to send to the county for the Special Use Permit and want to be as accurate as possible.

I've walked the property with my "Dirt Guy" and his advice was to put the runway next to the west side of the property to work with the natural drainage. There is a tree row along the north half that I don't want to tear out as well as I would much prefer the house/hangar on the West side of the runway.

I was hoping to put the runway on the east side of the property, this would require a several small culverts as there is not enough slope for the larger ones needed. The smaller culverts would also require vigilance as the adjacent field debris would be flowing into the culverts. More expensive to build and work to keep up.

Pics of the property after 8 inches of rain this spring, You can see the drainage looking north.

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Pic this fall after the beans were harvested looking south.

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An initial sketch of a compromise trying to meet our Wants, This configuration makes it runway 02/200. "Dirt Guy" thinks this is a good plan, the south half of the runway would be built up slightly to funnel the water into the finger of trees on the south side. It would also dry out the southeast corner.
--Length--depends on the layout but 2300'+ is doable in all configurations
--Width--60' is a good compromise on cost, use and maintenance
--I'm told I want to use Bermuda grass (Kansas)
--Obstacles--Bury powerlines on north, live with trees on the south. House, Hangar, Trees 100' laterally from runway centerline.
--House--500'+ off the road
--Zoning requires 150' laterally for house from property boundary
--House and hangar on West side of runway, Hangar door facing east to the runway to avoid the prevailing north/south winds and summer evening sun.
--Retain some crop land for income

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The angled truck tracks roughly represent the runway location as described above, looking south.

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I appreciate any advice you can give!
 
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Advice

My advice is based on my experience from putting in a grass strip on my farm, so I'm familiar with making compromises. I mulled it over and walked the options many times before committing. We have 135 acres, roughly square shaped, and the strip is 650 m long by 15 m wide (2100 ft x 45 ft) with buffers between the thresholds of the strip and the fences. The buffer is 500' one end and 165' the other.

You mention that the prevailing winds are from the east and the strip is going to run approximately north/south. So there will be crosswinds to deal with. It looks like your block is rectangular, otherwise I'd suggest trying to angle the strip diagonally across the field, more like 05-23, from a wind perspective.

The other thing to consider is the approaches and what space is available if there is an engine failure after take-off. The neighbouring properties are not visible in your photos but I would try to align the strip to avoid trees, ponds, power lines, buildings etc. Some relatively small adjustments to the position may be of significant benefit.

I also started out with a "Dirt Guy" for some drainage but decided to finish the strip myself, as he was more of a "bulldozer" guy than a "final cut" guy. You want to try to keep your good top soil intact if you're planning on planting grass.

We also have crops up to the edge of our strip so that can be done, and the farming contractor knows to stay off the strip with heavy machinery and herbicides.

The other thing I'd suggest is to fly some missed approaches first, if you are permitted and able to do that. I did this by marking out the ground with some tarpaulins that were visible from the air, and then flew down almost to the deck to prove that the proposed strip could work.
 
My advice is based on my experience from putting in a grass strip on my farm, so I'm familiar with making compromises. I mulled it over and walked the options many times before committing. We have 135 acres, roughly square shaped, and the strip is 650 m long by 15 m wide (2100 ft x 45 ft) with buffers between the thresholds of the strip and the fences. The buffer is 500' one end and 165' the other.

You mention that the prevailing winds are from the east and the strip is going to run approximately north/south. So there will be crosswinds to deal with. It looks like your block is rectangular, otherwise I'd suggest trying to angle the strip diagonally across the field, more like 05-23, from a wind perspective.

The other thing to consider is the approaches and what space is available if there is an engine failure after take-off. The neighbouring properties are not visible in your photos but I would try to align the strip to avoid trees, ponds, power lines, buildings etc. Some relatively small adjustments to the position may be of significant benefit.

I also started out with a "Dirt Guy" for some drainage but decided to finish the strip myself, as he was more of a "bulldozer" guy than a "final cut" guy. You want to try to keep your good top soil intact if you're planning on planting grass.

We also have crops up to the edge of our strip so that can be done, and the farming contractor knows to stay off the strip with heavy machinery and herbicides.

The other thing I'd suggest is to fly some missed approaches first, if you are permitted and able to do that. I did this by marking out the ground with some tarpaulins that were visible from the air, and then flew down almost to the deck to prove that the proposed strip could work.

Paul,

Prevailing wind is north/south. I wanted the hangar door to face 90 degrees to the prevailing wind and afternoon/evening summer sun.
North side is good for forced landings, south not so much. Good idea to fly over and check out the options to the south.
?Dirt Guy? plans on scraping the topsoil off the driveway and using that dirt to build up the crown for the runway preserving the topsoil.

Thanks for your reply.
 
Wind

Andy,
Glad to hear the prevailing wind is north/south, I misunderstood post #1 and thought you had easterlies.
Any more info needed, just let me know, there's other decisions ahead like hangar/doors, mowing machine, wind sock etc. Lots of fun!
Regards
Paul.
 
Irrigate

If you have the funds.... put irrigation in during the construction phase. It?ll help with growing in the grass and will look much better and stay healthier.

In Florida, every winter we would lose grass and weeds encroached. Now with irrigation... wow!
 
Info

There are several informational packages on planning and building your strip available from the EAA and AOPA. Some good info there...
 
Wow Andy! Very exciting! Once you have lived with your plane, you will forever be ruined from anything else!
 
I would orientate my house to the runway and not the lot lines. Looks like your hanger opening would face slight SE which is ideal to deflect the cold winter winds as you sit in the sunshine with coffee in hand in front of your hanger.

I have my house and hanger relatively close together for entertainment and convenience purposes. Food coming out, ladies going in to use the restrooms, etc. Connecting hard surface, no mud in the house or on the ladies shoes.

If you go with a ?hydroswing? hanger door, pay extra for galvanized. Ones on my strip require a lot of rust maintenance. I went with an aluminum by-fold. Glad I did....zero maintenance. Get the widest door you can afford. I would put your 80? facing the runway.

33 years living the dream.

R
 
The TX Department of Aviation has a very nice guide for farm and ranch airstrips. We used it when establishing our runway.

I would highly recommend that you file an FAA form 7460-1, Notice of proposed construction or alteration and then follow up with a form 7460-2, Notice of actual construction or alteration.

While I don?t usually advocate for the involvement of the federal government in my business, it can come in handy down the road. Our current neighbors were fine with us establishing a runway, but people buy and sell, so I viewed this as insurance down the road when new neighbors move in and possibly complain about an airport next to them. If it?s charted then it?s public information and they have no excuses.

This also helped immensely when the TVA decided to put a gigantic power line project that would have cut right through the middle of our runway, and the middle of everyone else?s property. When we received their proposal we were extremely upset, as well as our neighbors; nobody wants those giant towers through their property. I immediately forwarded a copy of the FAA Form 7460 to the TVA. Three days later they called and asked if we could locate the runway elsewhere. You know my answer to that. Long story short, TVA changed their power line routing because even they did not want to deal with the FAA. Neighbors were now even happier about having a runway nearby and no giant power lines.

Irrigation would be nice but consider the cost of water for such a large area. We spent a lot of time, effort an $$ getting Bermuda grass established. The planting window is small due to soil temperatures. We hit the window and then a drought hit us. That?s when we considered irrigation. The cost of piping, sprinkler heads and a new well, paled in comparison to the shear volume of water that would be required to irrigate a 60 x 1900 ft runway. In the end we went old school, re-seeded and did a lot of rain dances. The good news is that once Bermuda gets established, it spreads nicely and is easily maintained.

This ended up being a 3 year project from start to end. All the work was done by us so I guess if you pay a contractor you could get it done faster. The bonus is that now I just walk across the runway, open the door, roll my ride out and go play. It?s been great having the airplane at home and yes I would do it again.
 
I was seeding down my runway the day of 9/11, and have been using it on a regular basis since then. I flew yesterday, today light snow...

First off, I am a farmer by profession and dirt and drainage is something that I know quite a bit about.

1. Is there existing tile drainage in the farm? If so then can you add two runs of 4" tile 10 feet apart down the middle of the runway. Then another two runs along the edge of the 60' runway.
If there is no tile drainage at all in the farm you really should consider systematic drainage for the whole field. Even if the runway itself is drained the surface water going over it will not be good.
I note what may be a drainage ditch in the field beside your house. This is a good thing as it gives you an outlet for your tile drainage. Talk to your local county about municipal drains in your area. This is the key point in the success of your runway, getting rid of water.


2. 60' is a good width for the runway. If you have soys growing beside the runway all is good. When corn is planted leave at least a 6' strip on each side of the runway bare for the year. Getting a wing tip into a standing crop of corn would ruin your day.

3. Talk to local golf courses to see what seed they use for their fairways. DO NOT scrimp on the type of seed or the amount seeded. Again see if you can get a golf course to perhaps coach you on this all important seeding. Maybe you could hire them to do the job.

4. The early fall is an excellent time to plant grass seed. At least it is where I live, again ask the golf course manager his best timing. Keep in mind that golf courses usually have irrigation. You do not want or need the hassle of irrigation.

5. This is the farmer in me speaking now on runway orientation. Do NOT put your runway on an angle to the field. This will make a perfectly good rectangular field into two triangles. This is very inefficient for agriculture and will decrease your land rental opportunities. Plan on a local municipal runway for bad wind days. In 18 flying seasons I have never had to land at our local airport. You get very used to crosswinds.
Again, I emphasize; do not ruin a field for perhaps one or two trips a year to a local airport. Grass runways are much more forgiving then pavement when it comes to crosswinds.

6. Find a fuel company that will deliver fuel to your location. Your own fuel tank at home will make life a lot easier. It is usually less expensive then airport fuel.

7. Find out who is the best farmer in your area. Ask him/her, for their advice and rent the field to them.
 
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Backyard airport

Andy,You will absolutely enjoy a runway in your back yard.After ten years of grass strip use there are basically two must haves.Grass and drainage.Don't shortcut either. A wet area will mean pour grass (mud) and be unusable in the spring and other times.Rent a large grader with GPS grade controls and you will have almost as much fun as flying. I have a total station survey instrument that you can borrow if you want to do some planning.Tripod and stick might fit in your 7 ,instrument will fit for sure. It?s a Topcon brand. Have fun with your project give me a call if you have some time.
 
Previous Posts hit a couple very good points which match my experience. I will quote two ...

Irrigation would be nice but consider the cost ... The good news is that once Bermuda gets established, it spreads nicely and is easily maintained.
I managed an "OK" job on the first seeding and then top seeded the following year. It took a couple more years to really fill in. It looks horrible over the winter and spring but once the weather turns hot, the Bermuda grass is a happy camper.

Do NOT put your runway on an angle to the field. This will make a perfectly good rectangular field into two triangles. This is very inefficient for agriculture
I have a slight angle on my strip and I know it causes my farmer extra work. My land is best for beans and wheat so it's a little less painful than if it were often corn but it still makes him work harder than he would want, burns more fuel, and wastes some seed.
 
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Hangar orientation

I too oriented my hangar to avoid NW winds and hot afternoon sun. But what I ended up with was the sod in front of my hangar stayed wet and soggy after rains, and snow was slow to melt. So if you do this pour a cement apron in front of the door large enough to resolve this problem.
 
Thanks for all the advice and support!

My preference would be to keep the field square and have the straight N/S, my next stop is the local soil conservation office.

Luckily we have a well respected farmer that is going to continue farming it through next year, hopefully he'll continue farming after the runway/house is built. Next fall is the earliest we'll start the dirt work, after that is completed I'll have at least a year to hopefully get the grass started before the house is done. My EAA president just completed his several year long runway project, seems Bermuda down in the summer and pray for rain. Once we are living on the property I'll start building the hangar, hopefully by that time I have a good stand of grass.
 
Grass Strip

Remember the 1:40 height clearance issue.
A 4 foot high fence will loose 160 ft of runway length .
A 20 ft high tree 800ft.
While running diag. will give a longer runway from a farming point of view makes for a two triangle paddock/field (as mentioned)
Ok if its your own property but frustrating for owner if rented.
Animals can pack into small corner.
In New Zealand most farm strips are regarded as Top dressing/Agricultural items
 
My good friend Jim Winings (RIP) graded and built up 20 private runways over the years as he made his living doing fine grade work. His #1 rule was to put a foot of crown down the center, sloping to the sides. I fly into a lot of these strips and they are the most quickly usable ones after heavy rains. Really makes a huge difference.
 
Drainage

Rocket Bob is correct any slight dips between drainage water will lie and turn the ground soft. Crowning it is a very good idea.
On my strip I used an existing grass field and added drainage.
A flying buddy of mine and a drainage contractor (he did not do mine just free advice) advised me to run in two 4? field drains one on each side of the runway as close together as I could. A lot of wing sticks out from the wheel track. His best bit of advice was to back fill the drain to the surface with shingle. This allows the surface water to drain before it soaks into the soil. I had a couple of small patches which were lower between the drains and these became soggy in the winter. I cured these by adding two 4? drains across the field again filled to the top with shingle.
I fly all year round and have never had to stop flying due to a water logged strip. Other grass strips near where I live often in mid winter become unflyable

As the song says it is a green and pleasant land and it is the rain in England that makes it so.


Rob
RV 3
 
Looking at your picture with the truck tracks looks ready to use now ( but I'm flying a Maule :D ) there's not a piece of land that flat within a hundred miles or more from my place . Being a mostly retired dirt guy myself I'll only suggest heed your guy's recommendations for drainage.
I built my hangar ( farm building) as large as I could justify 40'deep x 60' gable & 12' ceiling and yes I wish I had built it bigger. I also orientated the bifold door in the gable end with clear polycarbonate panels to a southern exposure to gain maximum FREE solar heating in the winter months and maximum shading during the summer months. Insulated it well and rarely need to use the heater except on the coldest mornings or during several overcast days in a row.
Enjoy living what most can only dream of having your own aerodrome at home.
 
Looking at your picture with the truck tracks it looks ready to use now ( but I'm flying a Maule :D ) there's not a piece of land that flat within a hundred miles or more from my place . Being a mostly retired dirt guy myself I'll only suggest heed your guy's recommendations for drainage.
I built my hangar ( farm building) as large as I could justify 40'deep x 60' gable & 12' ceiling and yes I wish I had built it bigger. I also orientated the bifold door in the gable end with clear polycarbonate panels to a southern exposure to gain maximum FREE solar heating in the winter months and maximum shading during the summer months. Insulated it well and rarely need to use the heater except on the coldest mornings or during several overcast days in a row.
Enjoy living what most can only dream of having your own aerodrome at home.
 
WARNING:

Looks like the wind map is using TRUE north and not magnetic........

Adjust for local magnetic variation
 
Grass

Sowing grass requires a special drill. A way around this is mix your grass seed with wheat and it will flow through a standard grain drill with no problem. Wheat will die after mowing leaving the grass.
As Tom said, do not cut up your field with a diagonal strip if you plan on farming it. This is important.
Soil type will have a lot to do with drainage. Mine is sandy loam and naturally drains well. Heavier soils won?t.
Dirt work will vary too. My farm is flat with no rocks and all I did was run a disc over it several times to firm and smooth the soil before planting with a grain drill. That was about 30 yrs ago and it has served me well.
 
I would be real concerned about that tree line on the south end. Plus the draining appears more on the SW corner, if I have my orientation correct. It looks better to do a 16/34 orientation to me and try to get rid of the smaller tree'd area on the SE corner.

We have a 1700' grass strip (threshold to threshold) on Air Troy Estates in Wisconsin with 300-400 feet of runoff at each end. We are 1/19. I have attached a link to our website that has an aerial view of our airpark viewing from the North.

You can see the tree lines we need to trim from time to time. They can get real scary when they start to encroach on the final approach. I don't fly anymore but flew my 7A out of this strip. I highly recommend a C/S prop for flying into short fields, especially if you have obstacles to go over.

http://www.airtroyestates.com/index.html

Roberta
 
Nice land and home strip plans. I'm jealous. That is a long Pvt strip. RV's need much less than that, even with obstacles. As far as drainage if willing to move dirt and add drainage you can put runway where you like. Just costs more. +1 on crown on runway.

There are obstacle clearance slope from edge of runway to peak of buildings on side of runway requirements.
 
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