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gust lock for rudder

falcon900guy

Well Known Member
is there a suggested rudder gust lock that works well? i know anti splat has one but i have control approach pedals and probably won't work.

kenny
 
I bought an antisplat one for my buddy?s RV-10 when I was flyingthat. Worked great but since my stick was covered in leather I had to come up with something different.

I made one based on Greg?s drawings. http://www.nwacaptain.com/rudder_lock.html

I only did the rudder lock. Haven?t attempted the aileron lock yet which looks more challenging.
 
Like many others, I have adapted the Bogart tow bar to push forward on both pedals, held down by a seat belt. I carry the tow bar anyway so no extra weight. As a bonus, locks the elevator and ailerons at the same time.
 
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Anti splat

Seems the antisplat gust lock could be modified for the control approach pedals. It's a simple device that works very well. I like being able to install it before even leaving the cabin. Doesn't take long for a gust of wind to damage a rudder on a 10.
 
Found a few pictures of what I did. Pretty simple really.




I had a similar setup but not as beefy on my RV7A. It worked well until on one trip that I had parked it and did not check on it on a daily bases. When I returned the wind had messed it up and I had a pretty good ding in my rudder. I end up making another one, only this time put a nut on the studs so it can not work itself up which happened to the first one.
 
Nice but that is definitely a remove before flight item!

That's true, but on the ground since your rudder pedals would be stiff as a 2x4 and you could only steer with differential braking, you'd be well within the clueless category.

On my -7A, I use a 1/4" rod in a modified inverted u-shape held down with a bungee cord wrapped around the tie down ring a couple of times to keep the rod from working its way out when the wind blows.
 
I'm going to see how these hitch pins work. If they don't work well then I'll drill them out and put those pull pin things in them and put little 'remove before flight' tags on them.
 
But

?That's true, but on the ground since your rudder pedals would be stiff as a 2x4 and you could only steer with differential braking, you'd be well within the clueless category. ?

Never underestimate people. Some years ago, I watched a guy fail his multi engine checkride because he neglected to untie the aircraft. He didn?t catch it until he tried to taxi...
 
For my 6, I made one out of PVC pipe. It looks like a football goal post and is very secure. It holds the pedals in a neutral position. I never liked the idea of mounting something like the small bar posted above. I just thought it was too much leveraged force for the fuse skin back there.

A side benefit is that you can't forget to pull it off. Not saying anyone would fly away with it on, but it is frustrating to have to jump out after settling in an buckling up, at least on side by side.

Larry
 
Kenny, google the DA-40 gust lock. That's what I'm going to make up when I get to that point. The control approach pedals have a perfect little area between the pedals and the arms for the two arms to rest over. I think I'll try and work up a stiff solution instead of the straps, similar to the ATS control lock.
 
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Keep it simple

I made one similar to the "Bavafa" device...using a thick piece of aluminum, AN-3 bolts, bolt head cut off, ends blunted on a grinder, and nuts on the treads to hold it in place on the aluminum. Attached a touch of stick-on soft velcro on the contact point to prevent any scratching of paint. I do have a florescent yellow "Remove before flight" banner held on by a key-ring type device. Simple, cheap, light, easy to see, and always in my flight bag..... With no disrespect, I can't understand why anyone would spend almost $200. on a device that looks like an octopus trying to mate with your stick...:eek: I have no fear about failing to remove it...As some have already said, it is virtually impossible to taxi with the gust lock in, and if "Flight Controls Free and Correct" is not in your pre-takeoff checklist, you've got bigger problems than a gust lock... :p
 
rudder gust locks

Mine is made from scrap wing leading edge profile with a rib in the middle lined with soft material with a 1/4 inch pvc pipe adapter to reach the top of the vertical stab and slots in between the top of the rudder and the top of vertical stab. I will post a picture when i get to the hanger. Easy and cheap with plenty of grip to keep the rudder from swinging.

Ron
 
Like many others, I have adapted the Bogart tow bar to push forward on both pedals, held down by a seat belt. I carry the tow bar anyway so no extra weight. As a bonus, locks the elevator and ailerons at the same time.
Same here and I like it a lot.

I used it at first with no modification. I found that the two arms for the nosewheel would fit pretty securely at the bottom of the rudder pedals. Later I had my neighbor weld a couple of washers to the bar so it would securely key into the pedals.
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=2223&log=200875&row=1

Then I discovered that if I push the seat all the way back, I can just stuff the handlebar in from of the seat cushion. And don't even need to use the seat belt.

At first I used a bungee to tie the bar to the stick but have since just added a bit of anti-friction tape to the Bogey and don't tie it.

In any case, everyone needs some kind of rudder lock on the '10 or at some point, it will get slammed around more than you want.
 
gust lock

i should have taken pix of the aileron and elevator....also very simple and easy to fabricate......i will be back at the hanger this afternoon and finish the photo job :)

The aileron gust lock slots between the aileron and the flap and the elevator gust lock slots between the moving surface of the elevator and the stationary surface.
 
Here is what I have been using for 6 years. Simple and cheap for RV10. All it takes is the addition of a protruding screw to retain the end at the seat. The over-center action keeps the gust lock securely in place

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gust lock

Your invention takes care of the rudder then for the ailerons, what would be wrong with using something simple like this?

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/ailerlock.php?recfer=14060

Hi Pilot 135pd,

nothing at all.....that would work just fine.....its similar to what i fabricated. works the same way.....i think it took me 15 minutes to build.....i will post pix this afternoon.

Still try to figure out how people are embedding the pix in this window..... :)

Ron
 
Bill,

I like how you made the gust lock, but i have to figure how to attach gust lock to control approach pedals. I'm thinking will have to attach to the side of pedals?

kenny
 
I love PVC ! I’ve made window awning frames for 12 windows on my rental properties, braces to keep doors open, a rudder gust lock for a Cessna 172, and rotor blade supports for my gyroplane. It’s easy to work with and light. I’m going to figure something out for my RV-8.
 
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Hi Pilot 135pd,

nothing at all.....that would work just fine.....its similar to what i fabricated. works the same way.....i think it took me 15 minutes to build.....i will post pix this afternoon.

Still try to figure out how people are embedding the pix in this window..... :)

Ron

I think you have to have the pics online somewhere and then just place the link here and they show.

I have some of the aileron locks, like the link I posted, from previous aircraft. I like your setup and I?m looking into building a lock with PVC also. Just have to see what I have sitting around regarding material, might do both.
 
gust lock

Bill,

I like how you made the gust lock, but i have to figure how to attach gust lock to control approach pedals. I'm thinking will have to attach to the side of pedals?

kenny

I thought about a pedal lock but because the -10 does not have push/pull tubes going back to the rudder the rudder will still slap around a bit and put stain on the control cables. If the rudder does not move the cables and the pedals will not move, but if you only block the pedals the rudder will still move and pull on the cables. I like to have my surfaces rigid so no play in the system will cause movement.

Ron
 
... if you only block the pedals the rudder will still move and pull on the cables. I like to have my surfaces rigid so no play in the system will cause movement.

Ron

And that?s why I?m looking closely at your rudder lock too. It also gives me an excuse to use a metal brake machine I?ve been looking to buy for over 2 years and finally bought one last week !
 
I thought about a pedal lock but because the -10 does not have push/pull tubes going back to the rudder the rudder will still slap around a bit and put stain on the control cables.

Ron

Are you not concerned with the strain on these cables and all of the slapping around of the rudder while you are flying and only have your feet on the rudder pedals without your rudder based lock installeds? Am sorry, but don't understand your concerns here.

Larry
 
Are you not concerned with the strain on these cables and all of the slapping around of the rudder while you are flying and only have your feet on the rudder pedals without your rudder based lock installeds? Am sorry, but don't understand your concerns here.

Larry

I don't think the windstream lets the rudder "slap around" while flying.
 
My gust lock solution

Rudder: I made a rectangle out of PVC piping (it's really more of a trapezoid, because it's wider at the front end and narrower at the rear, like the RV's tail). I added some padding, and I just slip it over the top of my rudder until it's snug. It weighs almost nothing, is easy to store, and seems pretty stout. The smaller PVC pipe works fine for this application.

Aileron and elevator: I use two Airgizmo Gust locks:

https://www.amazon.com/Airgizmo-AC2-AirGizmos-Gust-Lock/dp/B00KEFJH28

I like them because they are small and lightweight, and quick to install and remove. The key is to hold the strap against the locking tab when you fold the locking tab over, so that it tensions the strap that much more: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=loawoIOYSbo

I could not get one to work on the rudder, though -- the geometry is wrong.
 
Are you not concerned with the strain on these cables and all of the slapping around of the rudder while you are flying and only have your feet on the rudder pedals without your rudder based lock installeds? Am sorry, but don't understand your concerns here.

Larry

Hi Larry,

No Problem....we are talking about the aircraft in a parked condition on the ramp. There is always a bit of play or wiggle in the rudder no matter how tightly you rig the cables to the pedals (at least there is in every RV-10 i have looked at). To me, the rudder is a much bigger surface area (Kite) to be kicked around when the day might be rather windy or gusting and can place a higher load on the cables. Thats why i like to lock down the moving surfaces (rudder, aileron, elevator).

I think all the ideas and implementations in this thread are valid and reasonable.....its just up to your preference.

Ron
 
Rudder: I made a rectangle out of PVC piping (it's really more of a trapezoid, because it's wider at the front end and narrower at the rear, like the RV's tail). I added some padding, and I just slip it over the top of my rudder until it's snug. It weighs almost nothing, is easy to store, and seems pretty stout. The smaller PVC pipe works fine for this application.

I did the same thing for a 172 and used pool noodles for the padding :) The bright colored noodles make it hard to miss on pre-flight but I still added a Remove Before Flight orange banner to it.

I have to start posting these pictures somewhere so i can add links here. Preparing everything for my IRS Returns is occupying all of my free time right now though.
 
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Great idea

I did the same thing for a 172 and used pool noodles for the padding :) The bright colored noodles make it hard to miss on pre-flight but I still added a Remove Before Flight orange banner to it.

I?m totally stealing this idea. My padding is kind of kludgy.
 
I have the PlanePoop lock for my 12 and had one for my 7A before that and like them. I plan to use one on the 10 as well. For my rudder lock, I simply have a straight PVC tube with a rubber foot on the seat end and two "feet" on the other that capture the toe brakes. I made it so that the seat end is 1/2" PVC and the pedal end is 3/4"allowing the smaller tube to slide inside. Then I inserted a spring to provide a little compression. It can be pulled apart to make it smaller if wanted, but I tend to just toss it in the back in one piece. I've not weighed it, but whole thing is very light, probably 5-8 ounces.

I just hook it onto the pedals, compress the spring a little and pop it down to the seat bulkhead. It takes only a few seconds. The bonus is that I can install it while sitting in the airplane (which is nice on rainy days) and would have a very difficult time forgetting to remove it.
 
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Ok so I'll use Snapfish like you're using. I made this rudder lock for my previous 172 and it works so I'll use it with the RV-8. Probably cost me a total of $5 for the PVC pipe, duct tape and bolt.

I also had the aileron and elevator locks and they also work. Two pieces of wood and some padding and a bolt, can't be more than $4 total !

I made the side air vent and cowling plugs today with pool noodles too and just connected them with nylon string and wrapped them in a bright colored duct tape. Maybe another $5 total?

https://www.snapfish.com/share?via=link&token=fRMb1VpTKQnqS8XIDSKQVQ/SFO/27949796712060/SNAPFISH

Not bad for a couple of hours of work and it didn't cost me $60 or $80 or $150 !! Back when I was flying for a living and didn't have a lot of time off I might have paid those amounts and bought everything already made because time off was more valuable than money. Now that I'm retired time is in more abundance than money so I make these things myself, and top of that save a ton of money anyway.
 
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Look at the CL100 control lock for RV-10. I plan on fabricating similar solution for rudder pedals. I ordered extra studs and snap fasteners to fabricate rudder solution.

I wonder if something like that would work with infinity grips. I would probably have to custom make something.
 
I wonder if something like that would work with infinity grips. I would probably have to custom make something.

It should work fine. The "grips" are about 1 5/8" diameter, but come with inserts to bring that down to 1" if desired. I have Tosten grips and they fit fine, plus the grip fingers can be bent some if needed as well.
 
A very effective gust lock that can be activated before you leave your seat for refuelling etc is to attach nice marine polyester 16 plait rope or equivalent to the back of the right pedal left side and back of left pedal right side, running to Harken 22mm single block pulleys attached at the firewall both sides, then out to Harkin Micro Camatic Cleats attached to both sides of the tunnel at an appropriate height and position. With the addition of a rope retainer at the Cleats, all it takes is to reach down both sides of the tunnel and a quick pull on both ropes to lock and safely secure the rudder. No chance of leaving the lock on cause as soon as you touch the pedals with your feet you know the rudder is locked, easily disengaged by a quick pull on each side. (of course this system must include enough slack to allow full rudder when not engaged, which is easy to achieve) For overnite parking etc this rudder lock can be used in conjunction with the usual Pedal, Stick lay on the seat, position/lock by pushing the front seat forward gust lock. The Harkin pulleys and cleats mentioned are well known good quality boating accessories. Cheers from Western Australia
 
Prototype Gust Lock

When I bought my RV-10 in 2011 there was a rudder gust lock that the original builder had constructed. It was a rod that attached to the rudder pedals and then to the opening where the control stick comes out from under the pilot?s seat. I thought that it worked so I used it whenever I parked the aircraft outside. It wasn?t until a windy day about six months ago that I did a walk around after installing this gust lock and I moved the rudder. It moved freely in both directions, this gust lock was a waste of time and totally ineffective so I decided to create my own prototype.

I started with two 3/8? pieces of plywood that I cut to 7?X18?. I used contact cement to cover the inside of the two wood pieces with thin pieces of rubberized material to protect the paint on the aircraft. In the center of the plywood I drilled a hole that would accommodate a ?? threaded stainless steel rod. Around that hole I glued a stainless fender washer. Below the first hole where the threaded rod would go through, I drilled a 3/8? hole and inserted a wood dowel that stuck out about ??; I did this on both pieces. This would allow the threaded 1/4? rod to go through the top of the rudder hinge opening and the wood dowel would go through the bottom half of that same opening preventing it from rotating. On each end of the threaded rod, I have a stainless steel wing nut. I painted the prototype in white and stenciled REMOVE in big red letters on both sides of the gust lock. I ordered a LONG ?remove before flight ? banner and attached it to the gust lock.

Someone in an earlier post expressed concern about taking off with a gust lock of this type installed; I can assure you that you would never make it to the runway. Both of the rudder pedals are FROZEN in place and cannot be moved. This gust lock works like a champ and does not harm the surface of the aircraft. My aircraft is in a hanger 99.9999% of the time so it will be a long time before this prototype is ready for replacement. When I do replace it, I will build it to the same specifications EXCEPT I will use a plastic material of some sort from Tap Plastic for the body of the unit instead of plywood and use a plastic dowel for the indexing part.

Pictures available at shutter fly:https://qq0u.app.link/e/NaTBQ7zeUU
 
My concern with gust locks that attach externally to the control surfaces, is the damage that can be caused to the control surfaces by forgetting the gust locks are in place and moving the stick or the rudder pedals. My recommendation if you use external devices, is to install warning flags INSIDE the aircraft that are reminders to remove the gust locks.
 
Ext gust lock

Another concern for a external gust lock is getting out and retrieving the gust lock to install while the 30kt gust is beating your rudder too death.
 
Another concern for a external gust lock is getting out and retrieving the gust lock to install while the 30kt gust is beating your rudder too death.

A couple of times in 30 knot winds, I've towed the plane from its parking spot and turned the nose into the wind before removing the external gust lock and climbing in. Both times, it was on pavement and I towed it no more than 20 or 30 feet to get clearance from other planes before nosing it into the wind.
 
I made one based on Greg’s drawings. http://www.nwacaptain.com/rudder_lock.html

I only did the rudder lock. Haven’t attempted the aileron lock yet which looks more challenging.

I'm looking to install one of these on my 10 under construction but I've hit a couple of stumbling blocks. 1) what thickness are the parts? 2) what is the purpose of the shim between the skin and the rib and why is it only notched for one of the rivets it would hit?
Am i missing something simple here??
 
On the angle I used maybe 1/8th thick. The spacer, not 100%, just use something that fits the space. The purpose is to prevent buckling of the skin or otherwise damaging it.
 
Thanks for that. As for the doubler. Does it not make the skin bulge if it is wedged between the side skin and the rear bulkhead? Also I can't figure out why there is only one notch in it when i would think it would interfere with two rivets on the skin back there. Do you have a photo of your install you could share?
 
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