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MT Govenor control arm rotation

Larkrv10

Active Member
Hi all
Just working on the left air ramp baffling (RV10) and realized I need to rotate the control arm on my MT P-860-3 governor. From what I see/read in the governor manual, it appears I just need to remove the 6 screws and rotate the face plate to the next set of screw holes, (approx. 60 degrees clockwise) to position the control arm properly for the push/pull prop cable.

Anyone have recent experience doing this?

My searching of the archives did not reveal a lot of details.

Regards,

Rick
#40956
Southampton, ont
 
That's correct. You really should only need to loosen those 6 screws and rotate the arm then tighten the screws and safety wire them.
 
As Jesse said, DO NOT remove those screws. Just loosen them and you can then 'clock' the control arm. If you remove them completely and the mechanism comes apart it may be a little difficult to reassemble correctly. The procedure is described on page 11 of the manual (http://www.mt-propeller.com/pdf/manuals/e-1048.pdf, if you do not have it) and a side view of the mechanism is shown on page 5, which should clarify why you only need to loosen the screws to change the arm position.
 
MT govenor control arm rotation

Jesse and Patrick, Thx for the advise. Yes I do have the manual you referenced from MT. I didn't pick up on Jesse's remarks yesterday when I rotated the control arm. However I had read/looked at the manual so I expected the whole mechanism was indeed spring loaded. Fortunately I had loosened all the screws slightly and as I was backing out the 5th screw I found the control unit rotated freely so nothing came apart or out of the housing. I clocked the control arm to about 8:30 and re-tightened all the screws and wire tied them all again. Very simple process.
Thx for your help.

Rick
 
I may have gotten lucky that I saw this post before I too simply removed the screws. Would this procedure also be correct for a McCauley governor? Just another reason to support this website.
 
I don't know the McCauley governor. I cited the manual for the MT governor that Van's sells, but if you look on their website they have other models, at least one of which does not use the same method to clock. The arm, instead is clamped around a splined shaft and you simply loosen the arm, re-clock it, and retighten the arm to the shaft. The moral is RTFM; in this day and age it is usually possible to get manuals online or, at worst, by calling the OEM.
 
How to get AN3-11 Bolt into the MT Prop Govenor Arm

How did you get the AN3-11 bolt into the MT Govenor arm? It hits the casing and can't line up with the hole. Did you shorten it? Did you use a -10 bolt? Did you remove the arm? Yikes. Did you put the bolt in from the outside (from aft direction)? I've tried with the arm pulled all the way back because I notice it moves out as it moves back, but still I can't get that bolt into the arm hole.

thanks
 
How did you get the AN3-11 bolt into the MT Govenor arm? It hits the casing and can't line up with the hole. Did you shorten it? Did you use a -10 bolt? Did you remove the arm? Yikes. Did you put the bolt in from the outside (from aft direction)? I've tried with the arm pulled all the way back because I notice it moves out as it moves back, but still I can't get that bolt into the arm hole.

thanks

Did you try rotating the arm and then inserting the bolt as described in the other thread you posted in?

With most gov., the arm gets further away from the gov. body as it is rotated.
 
Inserting AN3-11 bolt

How did you get the AN3-11 bolt into the MT Govenor arm? It hits the casing and can't line up with the hole. Did you shorten it? Did you use a -10 bolt? Did you remove the arm? Yikes. Did you put the bolt in from the outside (from aft direction)? I've tried with the arm pulled all the way back because I notice it moves out as it moves back, but still I can't get that bolt into the arm hole.

thanks

Steve, I had to remove the safety wire and screw from the arm and pull the arm slightly outward away from the governor case (along the splined shaft) until the bolt would go through the hole at the end of the arm. Just go slow as the arm is also spring loaded to return to it's fine stop position. You shouldn't need to remove the arm completely.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
 
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