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Irv’s RV-7A journey

nohoflyer

Well Known Member
Patron
I started my build when I lived in a real house in W Massachusetts. I had an actual walk out basement that I turned into my shop. Actually it was a great motivation to finally clean, purge, and organize it. I built my empenage down there in about 9 months.

Hiccup. My wife and I decided to move to NYC (empty nest syndrome). She is from Manhattan and my moms side is from Brooklyn. Airplane goes into storage for a year and a half while I try to figure things out. Eventually I get the use of a hangar at an abandoned airport in Long Island. The hangar is the biggest and best one on the field (which isn’t saying much considering most of the other ones are in total disrepair). However I now have a means of building! I order my wing kit and buy a 12000 watt generator and on we go!

Progress was slow due to the drive. Pandemic traffic was great in NY. 1.5 hrs each was wasn’t great but it was doable. I was getting out to the hangar twice a week. It was a nice break from the eerie-ness of Brooklyn where I live. Then traffic started building again and the 1.5 hrs turned into 2 turned into 2.5. It was becoming a burden. Something had to change.

I began looking at commercial buildings near me and calling brokers. As you can imagine, nobody is giving away space for cheap in NYC. I was shown a place for 700 a month that was about 700 sq ft. Nope not for a hobby. Then as luck would have it I spoke to a guy who spoke to a guy that was opening up a wood shop a mile from me that would consider it. We spoke and he seemed excited about someone building an airplane in his shop. We came upon a reasonable price and I moved in. This new space is nowhere as spacious as my hangar but it did have electric and plumbing! The deal was all my workspaces had to be on wheels so if he had a big delivery he could roll my stuff out of his way. Done.

So now I’m at the shop almost every day I’m not flying for my airline. My wife is on the phone all day for work so we have breakfast together before I leave. I get back home around 2-3. I get my build time and she doesn’t feel abandoned. Works great. The lesson I’ve learned is that if I want to realize my goal of building an airplane, I have to make compromises and accept change. I know that I may outgrow my shop I’m in now and will have to change again but I also know that if I stay committed, I will find a way.

I’m currently half way through my wing build and am feeling good about it again. Little mistakes aren’t a huge setback because of the time I can now dedicate. As they say “build on”.
 
Hey nohoflyer I'm also in Brooklyn and trying to figure out space for doing my build. I would love to come visit your shop some time! Also sent a PM
 
My initial shop in my basement.




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My move and my new shop. It looks cool but no power or water and not convenient.


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New shop I share with some woodworkers. Besides the dust and cramped space, this place is awesome and I’m lucky to have it. This is me spread out but being that all tables, benches, and jigs/stands are on wheels I can push everything to the side in the evening.


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This is me using Wirejocks technique for lining up the baffle, z bracket, ribs. I screwed my first tank up and had to reorder parts and redo. Thank you sir, this worked so well!


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Irv! Looking great! I have a power shortage at my hanger and have decided on a modest 3500 Harbor Freight generator should the need arise. I have one 15amp circuit that I am concerned I will trip the breaker on and be stuck one day...Haha
Keep up the good work!

Kent
 
Yea the issue was my compressor. Only need about 3500W to run but would surge up to 9000W to start. You don’t want to blow your capacitor like it did.
 
Yea the issue was my compressor. Only need about 3500W to run but would surge up to 9000W to start. You don’t want to blow your capacitor like it did.

OUCH!
I have a soft start compressor now...My 2 stage 175psi unit stayed at the house. I am single phase as well so it is a hassle all the way around.

See you on VAF!
 
One fuel tank done, one to go. I am so sick of cleaning proseal off my clecos. Please let this end soon!!
 
Big day. Leak tested and screwed on the left fuel tank. A lot of work came together pretty well.



 
Second tank went together much smoother and faster. Actually passed leak test with screws not prosealed though I’ll probably cover them eventually just in case.

 
Finally finished tanks. Attached top skins. Flipped wings over. Like most people, this was a big deal for me.



 
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I’m at that stage with my -8. And you’re right, it’s a big milestone! Suddenly you have wings!!!
 
Congratulations! Can't wait to be at that point, working on ailerons this weekend. Plan is to finish ailerons and flaps before I do the wings as the garage if full with my 99.9% completed fuselage. Glad I had that long offset back rivet set for ailerons:

https://flic.kr/p/2nbQsTa
 
I took a break after my first tank and did my ailerons and flaps. It was a nice break before I got back into my other tank. Also the fact that the top skins was a two person job slowed things down.

So flipping the wings over just feels like the end of a very long process.
 
Pin

Might reconsider that …. Can’t be removed after the wing is installed. Center of the flap is a better option
 

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If I have to deal with the hinge I’ll probably remove the wing. I can’t imagine that it will be a common occurrence though.
 
I agree with g zero. The center is the place to make your positive pin holders. In my 5 years of flying I did remove the flaps once. Don’t recall why, cuz these made it a non-event. Maybe paint?? If u have to remove yours u will contemplate it a long time. And likely regret it. This location is too simple not to do it this way. My opinion of course.
I used 2 separate hinge eyelets and mounted a #6 nutplate on each. Ez to take out. Ez to verify each is locked in place.
 

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I’ve had to remove my flaps a few times after attaching the wings, for example to better trim inboard skin clearance to the fuselage. The wings were a bear to get on, and I never ever want to have to remove or reinstall those spar bolts. I would def. want to make sure the hinge pins could be removed with the wing attached.
 
Flap

Can’t imagine the pain to pull a wing if needed ……. Not something I want to do . Also installing a wing with a flap already attached doesn’t sound fun either.
 
Wings complete. After much consternation of future issues and the nudges from others including those who responded on here, I got with the hinge program and did it like Vans recommends. Fuse kit coming next month!


 
My current progress. Also got my N number today! Wings and empennage stored in hangar for now.







 
Finally flipped the canoe with the help of two others. Again, getting a riveting partner took some time so I could finish the side and bottom skins. Turns out that not everyone loves building an airplane as much as me.

I am building in a wood shop and sawdust is an issue. Now that the fuse is basically a big bowl I needed to cover it thus the tarp.

Also I lowered my forward stand to about 22 inches and it’s about right.



 
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Finally got far enough along where I was able to sit in it. Wife and friend came by and both got climb in. I don’t take a lot of photos of myself building cause I’m too busy building. Wife (top pick) was impressed on the progress.



 
This is where I am currently. Im at the end of the fuse with several loose ends.





 
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More progress while waiting for finishing kit. Looking for opinions on my static line install.




(I’ve since put in 90 degree fitting at the ports to elimate the sharp angle of the hose)


My son making airplane noises


Riveting partner. He has a background in racing cars.


TS Flightlines hoses and tubing. So easy.

 
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Static Line Comment

The static lines should angle up from static ports so water/ condensate wont accumulate at bottom of loop . I found I needed to do that so water can drain via the static port to allow valid static pressure changes.
 
Adjusted the lines with a 90 degree fitting. Now just need the bushings.


 
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More progress while waiting for finishing kit. Looking for opinions on my static line install.



The static lines should angle up from static ports so water/ condensate wont accumulate at bottom of loop . I found I needed to do that so water can drain via the static port to allow valid static pressure changes.


My understanding of Vans original design was to avoid any upward slopes of static line from panel to static port such that any condensation could drain out the ports. That is why the line goes directly forward from the left port in the plans. "Pressure balancing" via centering the tee at the top is unnecessary. The center tee shown creates an upward hill that can trap moisture in the static line between the tee and the panel. If the line is only going to an AHRS that is mounted in the ceiling, then OK but it could still be better to go direct to one port or another.
 
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Irv's installation concept (including "T" joining the two ports, and including upslope immediately after the static fitting) is consistent with Van's Static Air Kit plans from 2005 or so:



IMG_0032.jpg
 
Irv's installation concept (including "T" joining the two ports, and including upslope immediately after the static fitting) is consistent with Van's Static Air Kit plans from 2005 or so:

View attachment 47238

Yes, the inclusion of the tee follows the plans. My point is that the location of the tee in the build image does not follow the design intent from Vans and it matters. The t in the supplied plans is right above the left port, not at the top of the fuselage. It makes a difference in the slope of the forward going line.

Again, If an AHRS is being mounted at the top of the fuselage, all is well because there will be a downward slope from AHRS to the static ports. (On review of more of the images, I think I see an AHRS bracket poking out from the top)

If the line is going forward to the panel, then the tee needs to be low and the line needs to follow the left longeron in order to best drain condensation from the panel.

To be clear, I am not a "follow the plans" fanatic, unless the plans describe the best scenario from a physics standpoint. I am currently not aware of a better way to get the static signal to the panel than what the plans describe.
 

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