jeffmoreau
Well Known Member
Please post a photo of your Rudder Gust Lock. Especially for a RV-8A.
Thank you in advance!!
Thank you in advance!!
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Show me your Rudder Gust Lock
- Thread starter jeffmoreau
- Start date
jeffmoreau
Well Known Member
Air Gizmo
I am using these for the Elevator and Aileron however it is not a good solution for locking the Rudder. The 8A sits up high on the gear and I can't get one of these on the rudder without a step ladder.
I am using these for the Elevator and Aileron however it is not a good solution for locking the Rudder. The 8A sits up high on the gear and I can't get one of these on the rudder without a step ladder.
Some options in this link.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=71155&highlight=rudder+lock&page=2
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=71155&highlight=rudder+lock&page=2
jeffmoreau
Well Known Member
Bump
Bumping this thread.
Bumping this thread.
pauldan181
Well Known Member
One option
I bent up a piece of mild steel and added a couple of screws and plain nuts. I just drop the brace in and run the nuts down finget tight.
Paul Danclovic
Jamestown NC
RV-8A N181SB
I bent up a piece of mild steel and added a couple of screws and plain nuts. I just drop the brace in and run the nuts down finget tight.
Paul Danclovic
Jamestown NC
RV-8A N181SB
jeffmoreau
Well Known Member
Yes I have external stops
Yes,
I have the external stops as per the plans. I am eager to see a picture of your set-up.
Thanks!
Yes,
I have the external stops as per the plans. I am eager to see a picture of your set-up.
Thanks!
robertahegy
Moderator/Tech Counselor
I also bent a U shaped pin and drilled the stops for the pin. I heated up the corners and bent them very square. I also left one leg longer and drilled the shorter leg for a hairpin and warning flag. Very simple and fast to install and remove. Sorry I can't find a pic. It is similar to Paul's, but you don't need the nuts and washers, just the hairpin clip on one leg.
Roberta
Roberta
rzbill
Well Known Member
Diamond Eclipse style control lock
I used to fly a low time DA-20 rental that had all the parts and was in working order (y'know the rental blues
).
Included was a control lock that I liked. I have recently done the initial fabrication of one for my -7A. The strap locks are mounted in out of the way positions on the lower edge of the panel.
The rod is an old aluminum tube tent pole with an ultralight plastic tube saddle (out of one of my many jars of airplane stuff) to nest the stick and a roll pin at the other end to engage and push the rudder pedals.
Below is a pic of the web locks. I potted the belt loop area with marinetex epoxy (many will work of course) so I could make a bolt hole.
I used to fly a low time DA-20 rental that had all the parts and was in working order (y'know the rental blues
).Included was a control lock that I liked. I have recently done the initial fabrication of one for my -7A. The strap locks are mounted in out of the way positions on the lower edge of the panel.
The rod is an old aluminum tube tent pole with an ultralight plastic tube saddle (out of one of my many jars of airplane stuff) to nest the stick and a roll pin at the other end to engage and push the rudder pedals.
Below is a pic of the web locks. I potted the belt loop area with marinetex epoxy (many will work of course) so I could make a bolt hole.
Last edited:
kentb
Well Known Member
Mine is close to Bills.
My strap (a cargo tie-down) hooks to the gear weldment on the forward tube. This means that it goes around the stick a bit lower.
I like Bill solution as it should have more leverage. I see about modifying mine to get it to stay up higher.
Kent
Included was a control lock that I liked. I have recently done the initial fabrication of one for my -7A. The strap locks are mounted in out of the way positions on the lower edge of the panel.
The rod is an old aluminum tube tent pole with an ultralight plastic tube saddle (out of one of my many jars of airplane stuff) to nest the stick and a roll pin at the other end to engage and push the rudder pedals.
My strap (a cargo tie-down) hooks to the gear weldment on the forward tube. This means that it goes around the stick a bit lower.
I like Bill solution as it should have more leverage. I see about modifying mine to get it to stay up higher.
Kent
Rick6a
Well Known Member
Roberta's design for a rudder gust lock is very similar to the one I once fashioned. Hardly a unique design, it is based upon classic examples I have seen elsewhere. Here's a couple of pics of the simple gust lock I fabricated, originally posted in 2006:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=42089&postcount=11
jeffmoreau
Well Known Member
Rudder Gust Lock
Bumping this thread up again.
Thanks!
Bumping this thread up again.
Thanks!
Jeff,
I have u-pins for mine also. Made them from 1/4" brass rod bending them in the vice with a hammer. Drilled matching holes in the rudder stops. I pin both left and right sides as I heard someone earlier had used a single 3/16" stop (one side only) and strong gusts actually bent it. I'm sure my rudder would be damaged from the hurricane long before these failed.
No picture, but you're welcome to walk the 4 hanger rows between my hanger and yours and check them out. I think I copied these from Dick Reynolds.
I have u-pins for mine also. Made them from 1/4" brass rod bending them in the vice with a hammer. Drilled matching holes in the rudder stops. I pin both left and right sides as I heard someone earlier had used a single 3/16" stop (one side only) and strong gusts actually bent it. I'm sure my rudder would be damaged from the hurricane long before these failed.
No picture, but you're welcome to walk the 4 hanger rows between my hanger and yours and check them out
. I think I copied these from Dick Reynolds.
grantcarruthers
Well Known Member
I made one from PVC and foam insulation that has worked well, is light, and cost under $5. It takes 5 minutes to build and can be perfectly customized to any airfoil shape. The pin type locks seam like they could focus a lot or force on a very short arm regarding the geometry.
The PVC is about as hard to miss on preflight as anything could be too.
Happy to get pictures if interested.
Grant
The PVC is about as hard to miss on preflight as anything could be too.
Happy to get pictures if interested.
Grant
grantcarruthers
Well Known Member
To clarify, mine wraps around the entire v stab and rudder.
alpinelakespilot2000
Well Known Member
Need to make some myself, Grant. Would love to see pics if you can post them here!
grantcarruthers
Well Known Member
After 2 failed attempts at posting the pictures, you get links LOL. I don't post enough to figure it out after failing with 2 good tries.
http://www.pilotvids.com/image/PVC_Rudder_Gust_Lock
http://www.pilotvids.com/image/PVC_Rudder_Gust_Lock_2
http://www.pilotvids.com/image/PVC_Rudder_Gust_Lock_3
I don't recall the size but just use your best judgement, 1/2 or 3/4 inch PVC I'd guess, a couple of 90 degree joints, duct tape, and PVC insulation to pad the gust lock. I had PVC glue on hand to join the 90 degree joints and the pipe but I'm sure Duct tape could be used at the leading edge too to avoid paying for the glue which I recall being the most expensive part of the project. The trailing edge is just duct tape. It lasted 3 years and I just reinforced it last week for the first time.
I like that it completely removes the control cables and mechanism from strain, if you build it longer you could slide it further down the rudder to decrease the bending moment but I've never had a problem in 3 years of use. The insulation rolls around the pipe as you slide it down so there really isn't much friction or scratching of the rudder/stab if that concerns you.
Anyway, works for me.
http://www.pilotvids.com/image/PVC_Rudder_Gust_Lock
http://www.pilotvids.com/image/PVC_Rudder_Gust_Lock_2
http://www.pilotvids.com/image/PVC_Rudder_Gust_Lock_3
I don't recall the size but just use your best judgement, 1/2 or 3/4 inch PVC I'd guess, a couple of 90 degree joints, duct tape, and PVC insulation to pad the gust lock. I had PVC glue on hand to join the 90 degree joints and the pipe but I'm sure Duct tape could be used at the leading edge too to avoid paying for the glue which I recall being the most expensive part of the project. The trailing edge is just duct tape. It lasted 3 years and I just reinforced it last week for the first time.
I like that it completely removes the control cables and mechanism from strain, if you build it longer you could slide it further down the rudder to decrease the bending moment but I've never had a problem in 3 years of use. The insulation rolls around the pipe as you slide it down so there really isn't much friction or scratching of the rudder/stab if that concerns you.
Anyway, works for me.
Randy Erwin
Active Member
Air Gizmos for me. They came as a set of 3 and I use one for the aileron, elevator and rudder.
jeffmoreau
Well Known Member
Thanks Time
If I can muster the strength, I will walk down and take a look at yours.
Jeff,
I have u-pins for mine also. Made them from 1/4" brass rod bending them in the vice with a hammer. Drilled matching holes in the rudder stops. I pin both left and right sides as I heard someone earlier had used a single 3/16" stop (one side only) and strong gusts actually bent it. I'm sure my rudder would be damaged from the hurricane long before these failed.
No picture, but you're welcome to walk the 4 hanger rows between my hanger and yours and check them out
If I can muster the strength, I will walk down and take a look at yours.
