Door fit

Now that I trimmed the inner door on the cabin top to the scribe line and place the door parts over the opening of the gap between cabin and door is greater than 1/8 inch. Any suggestions on how to keep the epoxy with flock on top of the rim around the cabin door as it cures

That is what cabosil is for.

West systems has it too, but different name.

http://www.aircraft-spruce.com/catalog/cmpages/cabosil.php?clickkey=107520

A lot has been written about fitting the doors on the 10 and before you embark on fixing the small imperfections "gap bigger than 1/8"" I would make sure you have all the door hardware in place especially the seal that you are going to use.
No matter how perfect it all fits once you install the door seal, things don't fit the same anymore and you'll have to re trim just a bit here and there.
So, install the hinges, door seal, door closing mechanism and the receivers in the frame whichever you decide on before making final trim adjustments to the door.
You may want to do it some other way but here is how I achieved a near perfect line between door and frame.
Door installed and closed as described above.
Apply an epoxy filler across the door gap and frame, let it cure a few minutes and cut the line between door and frame in one action using a blade of desired thickness to part the line between door and frame. The lines will be perfectly parallel. Let the whole thing cure and sand it down while everything is still installed.
You may have to do it a couple of times dividing the job into top and bottom and left and right or whatever suits your pace.
As to your particular problem you may find it easier to apply a little filler to the frame than to the edge of the door and use the straight edge of the door as a guide to the cut I mentioned above.

And Mike is right, Cabo Sil is the thickener for that job

Once the outer and inner shells are joined, did you trim the door perimeter back to the scribe line, which I presume will allow the door to then fit into the door frame, and then install the hinges and door handle mechanism? Or did you install the hinges and door handle mechanisms before trimming the door perimeter to fit within the door frame? Without the instructions in hand, I assume the first scenario is the process to follow.

One other thought Ernst, I suspect you could apply duct tape to the inner surface of the door contact points, set the door in place and then apply the fiberglas between cabin frame and door. The fiberglas would stick to the cabin frame but not the duct taped door surface and when cured would match the inner contour of the door.

I drill and cleco the door halves into the cabin top before epoxying. Then after they're gooped I cleco them down tight to the cabin top. I even drill a couple cleco holes lower down in the aluminum door frame area. Keep those real close to the edge and stuff em with flox later. After cure cut the perimeter down to just fit in the frame. You can use duct tape and spring clamps from there on. Then set up your hinges. The door side hinge leaves may need shimming to make the hinge area flush with the cabin top. I use washers and pack it with flox when happy. Use release tape on the door. Removeable and you won't mix up your shims. When you trim the door, use the scribes but verify, don't trust.

I suspect you could apply duct tape to the inner surface of the door contact points, set the door in place and then apply the fiberglas between cabin frame and door. The fiberglas would stick to the cabin frame but not the duct taped door surface and when cured would match the inner contour of the door.

Click to expand...

There really are no contact points on the doors/ frame other than the rubber seal. I also assumed you were going to install the McMaster seals.
The technique I described is really meant for the final shaping of the gap between door and frame. You'll also need to have your windows installed for this or else as I pointed out, you'll spend a lot of time perfecting a fit that will have to be redone again.
Applying any kind of tape to either the door or the frame will interfere with the parting technique and result in a jagged line.

Once the outer and inner shells are joined, did you trim the door perimeter back to the scribe line, which I presume will allow the door to then fit into the door frame, and then install the hinges and door handle mechanism? Or did you install the hinges and door handle mechanisms before trimming the door perimeter to fit within the door frame? Without the instructions in hand, I assume the first scenario is the process to follow.

Click to expand...

You'll want a fit with some room to trim a little more later.
To make any kind of decent fit you must install the doors with the hinges or else your fitting effort will be in vain.
I also installed the closing mechanism at this time as well as the guide blocks
so as to have the door in exactly the same place for final trimming and finishing

One more thing: I installed Nut Plates on the bottom of the door side hinges so I would be able to quickly remove and re install the door during fitting.
I must have done this 10 times or more to get the fit I wanted.

As always, everyone has their favorite way to install the door and certainly there is more than one way to to this.

Ernst can you describe the door side hinge nutplates again, where you placed them, so I understand how this helped with the fitting process.

dspender said:

Ernst can you describe the door side hinge nutplates again, where you placed them, so I understand how this helped with the fitting process.

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I think Ernst has a typo. I believe he meant that he installed nutplates on the ceiling of the cabin cover for the screws that hold the door hinge to the cabin cover.

For those of use that have overhead consoles, taking the hinges off is a little of a hassle.

Dennis , I am sorry It has been a while since my installation and my doors have features that are not stock. Looking at my pictures the bottom or backside of the hinges is almost closed off to accommodate the McMaster seal and it would be very difficult to access nuts, hence nut plates.
My original post was meant to help not make things difficult and confusing.
I put all four bolts into the hinge to keep the door in place for fitting.
I hope it all makes more sense now.

While we are at it here are some more pics.





A nice piece of beach wood to complete the sill.

Beautiful workmanship Ernst. Thank you for the guidance.

Door fitting seems to be going fine. Just need to be patient.

"Ed Grubermann, you must learn patience."
"Yeah, yeah, patience. How long will that take?"
- from comedy skit "Tae Kwon Leep" by The Frantics

I have trimmed the outside of the door so that it fits nicely in the door frame space. I am fitting the hinges. I believe the next step is install the window in the door. This is before I install the closing and locking hardware. I think I have that order correct. Then I need to flush fit with epoxy the portions of the cabin top that were trimmed at an earlier stage so the door will then fit tight against those stops. Not talking about the rim of the door to cabin, but the more inner portion of the cabin top that just touches the inside of the door, adjacent to the McMaster seals. I would prefer to work on this part before installing the window but after placing the closing and locking hardware. I have read Ernst's posting indicating I believe the window should be installed before that final fitting. Is there a problem if I leave the window out until the door is final fitted to the cabin with all closing and locking hardware in place. I can't imagine the door will change shape much with those efforts and that I would have difficulty fitting the window.

No

dspender said:

I have trimmed the outside of the door so that it fits nicely in the door frame space. I am fitting the hinges. I believe the next step is install the window in the door. This is before I install the closing and locking hardware. I think I have that order correct. Then I need to flush fit with epoxy the portions of the cabin top that were trimmed at an earlier stage so the door will then fit tight against those stops. Not talking about the rim of the door to cabin, but the more inner portion of the cabin top that just touches the inside of the door, adjacent to the McMaster seals. I would prefer to work on this part before installing the window but after placing the closing and locking hardware. I have read Ernst's posting indicating I believe the window should be installed before that final fitting. Is there a problem if I leave the window out until the door is final fitted to the cabin with all closing and locking hardware in place. I can't imagine the door will change shape much with those efforts and that I would have difficulty fitting the window.

Click to expand...

Don't want to go too far off the OP's point, but....

Can anyone see why we (I) should not use the nut plate idea, both as Bob mentioned (on the canopy top), and how Ernst has done (on the door)???

Would you use nut plates attached to an aluminum plate and glasses in to the canopy top? (Kind of like the gas shock support)

Alternatively, how about T-nuts glasses in? Or maybe click bond?

I would love to cover the nuts to clean up the interior without resorting to a full headliner.

dspender said:

I have trimmed the outside of the door so that it fits nicely in the door frame space. I am fitting the hinges. I believe the next step is install the window in the door. This is before I install the closing and locking hardware. I think I have that order correct. Then I need to flush fit with epoxy the portions of the cabin top that were trimmed at an earlier stage so the door will then fit tight against those stops. Not talking about the rim of the door to cabin, but the more inner portion of the cabin top that just touches the inside of the door, adjacent to the McMaster seals. I would prefer to work on this part before installing the window but after placing the closing and locking hardware. I have read Ernst's posting indicating I believe the window should be installed before that final fitting. Is there a problem if I leave the window out until the door is final fitted to the cabin with all closing and locking hardware in place. I can't imagine the door will change shape much with those efforts and that I would have difficulty fitting the window.

Click to expand...

I agree with Rick, I don't think it matters.

One suggestion, check the area on the cabin cover between the door and the rear window. Many have a flat spot that needs to be built up to maintain the contour of the cabin cover. I've found that you may need to shim the rear window after building this area back up.