Flap Handle Question

Started the flap handle. Did anyone have a problem with the flap handle pushbutton (VA-110) sliding into the flap handle? Looking for an idea.

Can sand the VA-110 down so it slides into the flap handle but want to make sure it is the correct thing to do.

Grind away

It does not come close to going in. I put it on the belt sander and spun it carefully until it fit, then used the 2" scotchbrite wheel on the die-grinder to polish it up. Works smoothly.

John Bender

I also had to sand the rear button. I had to trim about a 1/4 of an inch off the shaft for the rear button go in the tube. Works good now.
Gerry

OK, sounds like all are having the same problem. Will mount the push-button in the drill press with a short piece of the left over tubing and sand it down. Will also have to mount the tube in the drill as it also must be sanded down to fit into the pushbutton. (A poor man's lathe).

Chapter 32

Thanks Marty for bringing it up, both the inside and outside on the button are interference fits.

I wish Vans would put one legged nutplates on the aft bottom of F-1263 B- it is impossible for me to get a nut and washer on there.

Edit : I took a 3/8" cheap wrench and bent it into a squared Z shape. I then ground it thin and glued a flat washer on the bottom so it would just hold a Ms21083-n3. I guess I could have welded a big washer on top for a pocket for an AN-960-10

I used a tiny bit of gel type superglue to tack the 5702-75-60 spacers onto the pushrod bearings. I put the spacer on a bolt, applied a few tiny drops, then slid it into the bearing from below so it could not contaminate the spherical surface.

Similarly the washer in the F-1219a flaperon mixer arm needs to be glued in place. Using the AN3-21 like page 32-9 step 3 helps line the plates up enough to get the flap linkage stabbed.

I glued the 2 AN960-10 washers to the inside of the WD-1215's also to do them.

On p 32-08 step 8, I think they meant to drill #12 partially down the #30 hole so the rivet can expand. You better have a drill stop because once the drillbit gets started it wants to go all the way through. I used a unibit instead. I impaled them on the flaperons while the epoxy set.

Post your tips!

Thanks John,

All very good ideas. I used superglue quite a bit with the washers. Also fabricated the washer tool a la Jim Cone. Link is below. It worked very well. Took me about 20 minutes to fabricate. (Drill the washer sized hole with a unibit to start in a thin piece of scrap). Read your note about the #12 holes about an hour too late. Drilled all the way thru the plastic spacers!!

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=42237

okiejohn said:

Thanks Marty for bringing it up, both the inside and outside on the button are interference fits.

I wish Vans would put one legged nutplates on the aft bottom of F-1263 B- it is impossible for me to get a nut and washer on there.

Edit : I took a 3/8" cheap wrench and bent it into a squared Z shape. I then ground it thin and glued a flat washer on the bottom so it would just hold a Ms21083-n3. I guess I could have welded a big washer on top for a pocket for an AN-960-10

I used a tiny bit of gel type superglue to tack the 5702-75-60 spacers onto the pushrod bearings. I put the spacer on a bolt, applied a few tiny drops, then slid it into the bearing from below so it could not contaminate the spherical surface.

Similarly the washer in the F-1219a flaperon mixer arm needs to be glued in place. Using the AN3-21 like page 32-9 step 3 helps line the plates up enough to get the flap linkage stabbed.

I glued the 2 AN960-10 washers to the inside of the WD-1215's also to do them.

On p 32-08 step 8, I think they meant to drill #12 partially down the #30 hole so the rivet can expand. You better have a drill stop because once the drillbit gets started it wants to go all the way through. I used a unibit instead. I impaled them on the flaperons while the epoxy set.

Post your tips!

Click to expand...

Here are a couple of tips that I use all the time. When a washer is called for in a tight place, I super glue it in place. Use a tapered bolt as described below to line the washer up with the hole. Less is better when gluing things with super glue. It needs to be very thin to stick well. Also when you have a nut that is hard to get started because it is in a difficult place to get to and it needs a washer, first use a bolt with a washer on it and then thread the nut on a couple of threads. Then super glue the washer on the nut. Next, figure out which finger is easiet to get at the hole where the nut will go and super glue the nut and washer to that finger. Hold the nut in place with your finger and screw the bolt into the nut. Then put a wrench on the nut to finish tightening.

Another technique that I use a lot is to use tapered bolts to line things up. Get some cheap hardware store bolts and cut the threads off and then taper the end to a fairly sharp point. Use that to line things up. Push the tapered bolt out with the AN bolt. Make sure that you put the tapered bolt in from the side that will have the nut on it.

I also use what I call "bullets" to get things to line up. As above get cheap bolts and cut the threads off and taper the end. Then cut the head of the bolt off as well. It helps to smooth the bolt so that it will go through with less friction. Use the bullet to line things up and then push it through with the AN bolt. I have several bullets of different lengths to use in different situations. When using bullets, insert the bullet in from the side that will have the head of the bolt.