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Page 31-03 finish kit

JBPILOT

Well Known Member
After step 4 there is a note that you MAY have to remove the wiring snap-bushings. DO IT BEORE you run the first telephone cable. The straight BNC connector on the second wire will not go thru the snap-bushings after the first wire is in place. Easier to take them out first and slit them, back to the center section.

John Bender
 
Finish Kit

...AND, if you haven't done it yet, don't put in the rear plexiglass until you've put in the gas tank. We called Van's and they said it'd be easier to wait until after we put in the gas tank.
George and Meade
#16
 
...AND, if you haven't done it yet, don't put in the rear plexiglass until you've put in the gas tank. We called Van's and they said it'd be easier to wait until after we put in the gas tank.
George and Meade
#16

Thanks. I could see that coming. I'm gonna wait until everything is done before installing the rear window. Just having access to the back area to fit the tank & cover plates is a good thing.
 
think I'll wait and see what's involved. No I don't want tank sealant on my back window but if its just working in tight spaces....oh well.
 
Maybe a BETTER Idea!!

Or better yet for you guys/gals that are near the end of the fuselage kit. Do not rivet the turtle back skins AND do not attach the rear window with the screws.

I cleco'd the turtle deck skins in place. Set the rear window in place, drilled the roll bar and then removed the rear window.

With the rear window removed AND now having the ability to remove the turtle deck skins, access to the baggage compartment for control system and gas tank installation WILL be so much easier as the baggage compartment is VERY accessible.

Comments??
 
A very good idea

I think you have it right. Many things on the fuselage are not in the right order. I am glad that I did not have to start with the fuselage kit it needs a lot of work on when to do things. I found, thanks to this forum, that doing the pluming when about half done with Section 22 made it much easier and even then there is an AN fitting in the return fuel line that should have gone in before any major parts were assembled. They still have not learned how to properly instruct us on cutting hinges so that you do not waste a lot of material doing it their way and finding out that most of it is wrong.

Best regards,
Vern
 
Thanks ...

Gentlemen,

Thanks ... I'll cleco the 2 turtle skins and not attach the rear window till much later in the building process. I'll be painting the interior of the 2 turtle skins in a day or two. And my rear window is still plastic coated leaning up against the garage wall behind my wings and wing rack. I was so hoping the fuel tank was going to be in one piece and just screw it down. NOT! :( :( :mad:

I ordered the finishing kit 3/2/09 and it'll be shipped the first week in May ... that's OK with me ... I just hope I'll be done with the last 3 or so pages of the fuselage kit & the last two sections of the tailcone kit (assembly and fairings) before the finishing kit arrives.

Will that mean I won't attach the tailcone till after the stabilator and rudder are attached? Or do I finish section 11 & 12 ... then remove the rudder, vertical stabilizer, and stabilator and then attach the tailcone to the fuselage?? :confused::confused::confused:
 
The fuel tank installs with three bolts. It is readily installable and removable with the window in place. As is the baggage bulkhead, etc. This is all stuff that will have to be done during routine condition inspections. I wouldn't presume everyone will remove there window every time they do a condition inspection will they?
 
The fuel tank installs with three bolts. It is readily installable and removable with the window in place. As is the baggage bulkhead, etc. This is all stuff that will have to be done during routine condition inspections. I wouldn't presume everyone will remove there window every time they do a condition inspection will they?

Thanks Scott...I'll stick with my original plan...follow than plan.
 
The fuel tank installs with three bolts. It is readily installable and removable with the window in place. As is the baggage bulkhead, etc. This is all stuff that will have to be done during routine condition inspections. I wouldn't presume everyone will remove there window every time they do a condition inspection will they?

In accordance with the class just attended, the inspection of the control cables is required every annual. As such, we would have to remove the tank and the rear empennage cover plate?? Yes/No??
 
In accordance with the class just attended, the inspection of the control cables is required every annual. As such, we would have to remove the tank and the rear empennage cover plate?? Yes/No??

Yes.
<pasted from my original post>
This is all stuff that will have to be done during routine condition inspections
On experimental category aircraft we don't do annual inspections, we do condition inspections (annually :rolleyes:).
 
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