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DupliColor Self Etching Primer
- Thread starter 818 AV8R
- Start date
RV7AJeremy
Well Known Member
Love it
I use it, I love it. I have almost all the wing structure primed and it has all been with the DP self etching primer. I think it works great. IMHO.
I use it, I love it. I have almost all the wing structure primed and it has all been with the DP self etching primer. I think it works great. IMHO.
I should own stock in Duplicolor ...
I've used thier self-etching primer throughout my build ... probably gone thru 7 or 8 cans of it. It is the best primer I have used, bar none. That includes zinc chromate products, SEM Hi-build, and Sherwin-Williams best automotive stuff. Just make sure you use the Duplicolor self-etching primer ...that's the product that really works well with aluminum.
Better yet, whenever I needed another can, I could drive over to Advance Auto Parts and buy it for under $6, rather than mail order the specialty stuff.
I've used thier self-etching primer throughout my build ... probably gone thru 7 or 8 cans of it. It is the best primer I have used, bar none. That includes zinc chromate products, SEM Hi-build, and Sherwin-Williams best automotive stuff. Just make sure you use the Duplicolor self-etching primer ...that's the product that really works well with aluminum.
Better yet, whenever I needed another can, I could drive over to Advance Auto Parts and buy it for under $6, rather than mail order the specialty stuff.
The WM stores in my area only carry Rustoleum self etching primer. It's sure cheap but has proven to be just awful stuff. Looks horrible and doesn't stay on parts very well at all.
Duplicolor, Sherwin Williams 988, and Napa 7220 (same as SW988) have all worked well for me.
Duplicolor, Sherwin Williams 988, and Napa 7220 (same as SW988) have all worked well for me.
longranger
Well Known Member
Wow! I may have drive off the mountain and find a Walmart! Yesterday I felt like I was getting to the point on my empennage that I'm going to have to make a primer decision. I found out last week that I can no longer get my tried and true Variprime here, so I went to our local NAPA store yesterday to pick up a couple cans of 7220 just to get started, and all they carry is the Duplicolor. But... it was $9.49 - over $10/can out the door!
, so I just bought one can for a trial run. They can order the 7220, but it's about $0.50 MORE per can. The price difference wouldn't sway me but if the Duplicolor works as well, and it's available off the shelf, that's the way I may go.
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jdeas
Well Known Member
In rattle can, the Napa 7220 has worked best for me.
I think i am pretty happy with the duplicolor self etching as well. it seems to be quite readily available, fair priced, sturdy, quick drying, and good corrosion protection as well.
Although it may be tempting to prime everything in sight, i dont think the cost and added weight are worthwhile. There are airplanes 50 years old still flying with no primer and little to no corrosion depending on environment. Of course there are the examples that are not doing well and everything in between depending on the variables.
I plan to always hangar my aircraft and avoid any longterm exposure to corrosive environments. I will prime anywhere two surfaces are mated and of course any aluminum that is not alclad.
Although it may be tempting to prime everything in sight, i dont think the cost and added weight are worthwhile. There are airplanes 50 years old still flying with no primer and little to no corrosion depending on environment. Of course there are the examples that are not doing well and everything in between depending on the variables.
I plan to always hangar my aircraft and avoid any longterm exposure to corrosive environments. I will prime anywhere two surfaces are mated and of course any aluminum that is not alclad.
I too have had success with the DupliColor SE. I like the color too!
I have a 1974 spam can that I own with no primer and with no corrosion. However, Cessna is shipping new C182s with the internals primed...so!?!?!?
For me, near the Great Salt Lake, I am priming. Good luck with your build.
I have a 1974 spam can that I own with no primer and with no corrosion. However, Cessna is shipping new C182s with the internals primed...so!?!?!?
For me, near the Great Salt Lake, I am priming. Good luck with your build.
RV7AJeremy
Well Known Member
Advanced Mil discount
Probably won't apply to too many people but advanced auto parts gives a 10% military discount. Every little bit helps.
Probably won't apply to too many people but advanced auto parts gives a 10% military discount. Every little bit helps.
mculver
Well Known Member
Some of the NAPA stores in my area have 7220 on sale for $5.99 right now. Check in your area -- they seem to do this on a regular basis, but not at every store. www.napaonline.com is an easy way to comparison shop between stores.
A year ago it was $5.49, so not quite certain why they raised the price by 50 cents in a no-inflation environment...
A year ago it was $5.49, so not quite certain why they raised the price by 50 cents in a no-inflation environment...
Wow! I may have drive off the mountain and find a Walmart! Yesterday I felt like I was getting to the point on my empennage that I'm going to have to make a primer decision. I found out last week that I can no longer get my tried and true Variprime here, so I went to our local NAPA store yesterday to pick up a couple cans of 7220 just to get started, and all they carry is the Duplicolor. But... it was $9.49 - over $10/can out the door!
cattflight
Well Known Member
Price disparity on NAPA 7220
Yikes! I just checked NAPA online and they are saying $10.69/can. What am I missing?
Yikes! I just checked NAPA online and they are saying $10.69/can. What am I missing?
f14av8r
Well Known Member
Hi Everyone,
I'm new and still in the planning / lurking stage. I must admit I'm very confused by the whole priming question.
Why would ANYBODY go through all the pain of the Alumiprep 33 / Alodine 1201 multiple step cleaning, washing and priming with a spray gun process if simply spraying the parts with Duplicolor, SW 928, NAPA 7220, et al from a rattle can will suffice?
As I'm trying to make up my mind about tackling this project, one of the things I don't think I'll like is having to prime all the parts. Especially when lots of folks say priming isn't necessary at all!
Is the rattle can approach a good middle ground? Not as good as the multi-step processes but better than not priming at all?
Finally, what prep process do you all use for rattle can priming? I think I've gathered you still have to clean up the surface. Is roughing it up and cleaning it with a solvent adequate?
Thanks for all the great info so far!
I'm new and still in the planning / lurking stage. I must admit I'm very confused by the whole priming question.
Why would ANYBODY go through all the pain of the Alumiprep 33 / Alodine 1201 multiple step cleaning, washing and priming with a spray gun process if simply spraying the parts with Duplicolor, SW 928, NAPA 7220, et al from a rattle can will suffice?
As I'm trying to make up my mind about tackling this project, one of the things I don't think I'll like is having to prime all the parts. Especially when lots of folks say priming isn't necessary at all!
Is the rattle can approach a good middle ground? Not as good as the multi-step processes but better than not priming at all?
Finally, what prep process do you all use for rattle can priming? I think I've gathered you still have to clean up the surface. Is roughing it up and cleaning it with a solvent adequate?
Thanks for all the great info so far!
The best way is what you decide
The best way is whatever you decide. You can review the many never ending debates in the forums about priming vs no priming. Pick one that you are most comfortable with.
As far as self etch primer, I clean with denatured alcohol and a scotch-brite pad, let dry, then spray the part.
The best way is whatever you decide. You can review the many never ending debates in the forums about priming vs no priming. Pick one that you are most comfortable with.
As far as self etch primer, I clean with denatured alcohol and a scotch-brite pad, let dry, then spray the part.
longranger
Well Known Member
At the very minimum, you'll need to prime the non-alclad parts. As for priming the alclad parts, my un-primed 57-yo C-170 built with the same alclad metal RV's are built from spent the first 42 years in the humid southeastern US, a good portion of that outside, and is doing just fine, though there are examples of those that haven't.
I'm currently just priming mating surfaces with Duplicolor. My prep is scotchbrite and solvent wipe, (or scotchbrite and Dawn diswashing soap for the bigger jobs, since I've started a concerted effort to decrease my exposure to solvents).
The biggest drawback with Duplicolor is that it takes a day (longer if it's cold) for it to bond to the metal. It dries to the touch in minutes but doesn't bond well to the metal for quite some time. I prime before I dimple, and if I dimple to soon, the primer literally falls out of the dimple. I used to use DuPont VariPrime (no longer available in California
) and it was pretty much good to go as soon as it dries.By reading this forum, you're on the right track. Set your display options to "From the Beginning", and spend a few more days reading.
