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Removing/Installing lower cowl by yourself

Saville

Well Known Member
HI all,

I've been wondering if anyone has built a cradle or come up with a handy way of removing and re-installing the lower cowl by themselves.

I can get the upper cowl off and on just fine by myself. But I always get help with the lower cowling. I'd like to find a safe sensible way of removing/re-installing the lower cowl by myself.

My present idea is to size two saw horses to be situated ahead of the induction inlet and a little bit ahead of the aftermost part of the cowl.

I was thinking of putting 8" foam on the saw horses so that nothing gets scratched.

But I thought I'd check with the collective wisdom of the VAF.

I've tried a forum search but I haven't found anything specific to this question.

Thanks!
 
Lower cowl

I secured my upper gear leg fairings with 4 screws so when I remove the lower cowl I have to remove the 2 screws that attach to the lower cowl so it can be removed. But to put on the lower cowl the upper fairings make a great shelf to hold each side as I gently slide the cowl in place. Then with one hand holding the cowl snug the other hand slips the firewall hinge pin in place..;)
 
Sorry, no pictures...

I built a plywood platform which sits on top of the engine. There are two rails at the ends (2x4) which sit on the tappet covers.

Crossways on top of the platform there is a piece of 2" PVC pipe about a foot longer than the platform, cradled between a couple of long screws at each side of the platform.

Each end of the pipe has sufficient cordage to reach the lower cowling when it is sitting on the ground. I place a piece of protective foam under the cowling to prevent scratching. There are hooks on the end of the cords which hook into my Skybolts on the cowl at about the fore / aft balance point.

On each end of the pipe, and in the middle, are two holes drilled through at 90 degrees to each other. These allow a screwdriver to be used to turn the pipe like a windlass, lifting the cowl. The centre holes allow the insertion of another screwdriver to keep the pipe from turning (and unwinding) when you need to stop to adjust the position of the cowl.

Works very well...
 
Sorry, no pictures...

I built a plywood platform which sits on top of the engine. There are two rails at the ends (2x4) which sit on the tappet covers.

Crossways on top of the platform there is a piece of 2" PVC pipe about a foot longer than the platform, cradled between a couple of long screws at each side of the platform.

Each end of the pipe has sufficient cordage to reach the lower cowling when it is sitting on the ground. I place a piece of protective foam under the cowling to prevent scratching. There are hooks on the end of the cords which hook into my Skybolts on the cowl at about the fore / aft balance point.

On each end of the pipe, and in the middle, are two holes drilled through at 90 degrees to each other. These allow a screwdriver to be used to turn the pipe like a windlass, lifting the cowl. The centre holes allow the insertion of another screwdriver to keep the pipe from turning (and unwinding) when you need to stop to adjust the position of the cowl.

Works very well...

Very Clever!
 
There is an old thread that had a few photos of various tricks folks had come up with to make the bottom cowl removal easier for a solo operation.

Over the years there have been a few threads dealing with this.

Here is one, but the photo is gone. However, the idea is explained well enough to figure it out. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=92666
 
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Sorry, no pictures...

I built a plywood platform which sits on top of the engine. There are two rails at the ends (2x4) which sit on the tappet covers.

Crossways on top of the platform there is a piece of 2" PVC pipe about a foot longer than the platform, cradled between a couple of long screws at each side of the platform.

Each end of the pipe has sufficient cordage to reach the lower cowling when it is sitting on the ground. I place a piece of protective foam under the cowling to prevent scratching. There are hooks on the end of the cords which hook into my Skybolts on the cowl at about the fore / aft balance point.

On each end of the pipe, and in the middle, are two holes drilled through at 90 degrees to each other. These allow a screwdriver to be used to turn the pipe like a windlass, lifting the cowl. The centre holes allow the insertion of another screwdriver to keep the pipe from turning (and unwinding) when you need to stop to adjust the position of the cowl.

Works very well...

Wow - great idea generator! I have a post that sits in the saddle hole of my floor jack with a rocking frame to hold the lower cowl. All fine for at the hangar, but a more portable unit for traveling is another matter. A light weight lifting mechanism to get it close with ropes sounds like a grand idea to work on.
 
During the build, I fab'd two small, low benches from scrap lumber from the engine crate. They're around 16" to 18" tall (... I used them on either side of the fuse when finishing all the interior and panel wiring.) I place one of those benches crosswise under the fwd edge of the fuse (immediately aft of the cowl) and then stack blocks of lightweight foam on either side of the center bottom cowl "bulge". I can rest the aft edge of the cowl on the foam at exactly the right height. That lets me fasten one Camlok on each side. From then on, it's a simple wrestling match between me, the nose gear leg, the 3 blade prop, and the intake snout. :) Sorry I don't have a pic.
I don't look forward to the wrestling match, but it IS solo do-able.
 
I built a carpeted cradle from scrap lumber that matches the underside of the bottom cowl and sits on a small rolling work bench. Push it up to the cowl, pull the piano wires, drop the cowl a little as I pull the cradle/bench forward. Tail dragger/forward facing servo for flat bottom cowl and two blade prop make it a piece of cake solo operation.
 
I have an A model.

To remove the lower cowl, I tape a piece of file folder material on the nose fairing to prevent scratches.

Then I put a cleco into the center #8 nutplate at the nose of the lower cowl on each side.
I wrap a ratchet strap around the clecos and over the prop hub. This supports the front of the lower cowl.

Then I wrap a ratchet strap around the main section of the lower cowl just behind the rear baffle.

I remove the cowl fasteners and lower the front of the cowl. I loosen the rear strap a bit so the cowl will tilt down and slide the front baffle rubber off the inlet ramps.

I get in front of the plane, unhook the front strap from the clecos, and pull the cowl forward off the nose gear fairing.

It sounds complicated, but I've done it so many times, it really doesn't take any time at all.
 
Man, y'all make this sound so complicated! In 1260-ish hours and lotsa oil changes I've never had help or a contraption to drop the lower cowling by myself. Screws at the bottom, pins on the sides; screws out, pull the pins, lower the cowling and pull forward with just two hands, easy peasy, no scratches.
 
I have a 7A and agree with John in the previous post. I do find it easiest to remove by myself. (Every time someone tries to help it just makes it harder.)

First I fold back and tape all the associated rubber baffling to keep it from catching anywhere. Then I stand on a chair in front and sort of lean over the spinner so I can spread the lower cowl in order to clear the side firewall hinges. Once the hinges are clear I just move it down (back low) until it clears the spinner. Then I just slide it out the front.
 
I'm guessing that the tail-dragger guys who expound on how easy the lower cowl removal installation is, have likely never tried the same tasks on a nose-dragger. I've done both, and the latter is MUCH more challenging.:)
 
If you have Skybolt fasteners on the firewall then this method will work. I use copper clecos in the Skybolt fasteners.

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New method?

I decided to give this a try, and it worked well for me today. It’s a lift for dirt bikes that I bought from Amazon. It has plenty of vertical lift to get the cowl all the way up. I used a pool noodle to support the cowl at the proper angles. I can sit on a stool and guide it while pumping the lift with my foot. The fact that it’s on wheels is handy also. It’s not the cheapest solution, but it made the job easier for me.




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Solo cowl install

I have used this with the prop and all baffling installed and it works. The seat is a Harbor Freight item and has the gas shock/height adjustment. Will put together a more permanent rig when I get to the airport.

Don Broussard
RV9 Rebuild in Progress
57 Pacer
 

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Lower cowl

Never had an issue with the lower cowl. I take out all the hinge pins, unscrew the bottom screws and sit on a small stool with wheels so I can scoot around the cowl and gently work the lower cowl away from the engine. It will eventually just fall into my lap. I just take my time and it only takes a minute.

There is another astonishingly simple method for the entire RV fleet. Realizing we are all fun loving pilots and appreciate valuable input I submit the following solution for all our nosedragger RV brethren:

 
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I built a table out of plywood and 2x4’s for legs. Swivel wheels on the end of each leg. Make it big enough to easily set the lower cowl in.pad the table and add blocking or whatever as needed. I have done this for 2 planes and have never had to ask for help with the cowling. I think it is safer for the cowling and plane than borrowing help from whoever you can capture for the task.
 
I built this rickety-looking dolly while fitting the cowl and found it works very well for installing the bottom cowl single-handed. The lip on the right holds the aft end of the cowl. A couple of screws act as a hinge and the left end can move up and down end installing the cowl. The stick on the left is the third hand to hold the cowl in position.

To use, just plop the bottom cowl on top, lower the front end, roll the dolly to location the aft edge and then raise the front to slide the forward edge in place (requires some wiggling)

It was a quick hack, but works well. I'm planning on rebuilding it to something more robust, but that's down the to-do list a ways

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There are so many inspiringly clever ideas in this thread that I am almost embarrassed to admit how I do it – but I will just to let folks know that it is possible because someday, you’ll have to do this by yourself on a ramp far away from home. I have been installing the lower cowls on RV’s for years all by myself with no frames or jigs – I simply lift the cowl from one side (it sags a bit, but doesn’t break), while supporting the bottom with my knee. Using my free hand, I slip the front part between the back of the spinner and the front of the baffle ramps. The rubber baffle seals can be stuffed up on top of the ramps, and that holds the front roughly in position. I then use the hand in back to pull the rear into approximate position and drop a hinge pin in place into the top couple of loops. Now the cowl can’t fall off. I then go around to the other side and do the same thing with the aft hinge pin on that side. This also works if you have camlocs – just fasten one near the corner to hold things in place. Now I go up to the front and carefully fit the baffle ramp seals and the “snout” to FAB seal (if equipped) in place. By now, the cowl is essentially in position, and I can put the aft hinge pins all the way in, and I am home free. The trick is sort of lifting and holding with your knee under the bottom of the cowl.

Caveats/Notes:

1) This works great with taildraggers - nose gears can be a little more problematic.
2) You might scratch the front of the cowl behind the spinner – not visible once the cowl is installed, and eventually, it’s going to get scratched anyway….
3) It’s more fun and creative to come up with cool tooling to do this – I admit it!

I think it is important to know how to do this because, as I mentioned up top, someday you will have to do this away from home to check something out, and you don't want to have any excuse NOT to check something out if you think there's a problem under the hood.
 
use the rags

Getting the bottom cowl on and off isn't that hard if you don't care about your paint! :D

I do dread it, but can do it single-handedly since I have the skybolts.

I place a lot of microfiber cloths near the spinner and in the corners to protect the paint.

Remove all the skybolts but one on each side - doesn't matter too much which one, top one or two work.

Release the last one on one side, put the cloth between the cowl and the aircraft, while holding the cowl in place with my "free" hand.

Release the last skybolt, put the cloth in place, and just slowly lower the cowl.

Notice that I forgot to put down the protection for the cowl on the hangar floor, say bad words... :eek:
 
This is something I picked up from Harbor Freight years ago and modified. They listed it as an engine stand (V-8? May not sell it any more).
The photo is from cowl construction but I still use it for most lower cowl removal/install.
My trick for the lower cowl rubber/ramp interference is to temporarily tape the rubber up & forward with wide blue painters tape. Once the cowl is on just peal the tape.
 

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My "system" was very close to Pauls... Mine was an RV7A but never had an issue. Minor scratches on the cowl behind the spinner after 1100 hours.

As Paul said, it's not a matter of "if" it's a matter of "when" you'll need to remove the cowl away from home.

Now my RV10 is completely different story, my wife is an expert helper.

Gary
 
Thanks WJB

My version of wjb’s cowling stand. Three door hinges. Besides being easy to get the cowl on and off without damage it is a nice way to keep the cowl safe when it’s off the plane. I wrap the edge of the spinner with vinyl tape.
 

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Office chair with back and arms removed sits a few inches below lower cowl.
Remove side hinge pins and lower to chair and roll forward.

Install is a bit more work. Lift and 'hook' the side hinge loops 2 lugs below install location, without pins. Then 'walk' the sides up as needed, then pin.
 
Bottom cowl tool

At first I was pretty excited to build that cowl dolly. Then it hit me...I have a nose gear. Doh! Feel kinda silly now.
I may engineer a forked type dolly and build one. Pretty cool idea.
 
Like a lot of folks have said you don’t need it but I’m constantly (maybe obsessively) removing the cowl to look around and I hate hanger rash.
 
Vince Frazier on FlyBoys sells the clear 3m tape to protect paint on area aft of spinner, fuselage aft of cowling, and anywhere to guard against scratching. Flaps another good application and it won’t yellow with age.
 
When I was building my -7A Harbor Freight had something they called an engine stand (I think for V-8). I saw the opportunity for the rolling stand to fit around the nose gear, and added some wood to raise the height of the stand. It is pretty heavy, and I've thought about building a lighter version out of PVC pipe, but it works.

I don't think HF carries this product any more, but it could be fabricated pretty easily.
 

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Steve Cogswell’s entry

What Steve is trying on his amazing RV8.
 

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