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Fuel tank access panels

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49clipper

Well Known Member
What is the best way to seal the fuel tank access plate for no leaks. I have used Vans cork gasket with constant leaks, homemade paper gasket which was better but stilled leaked, and no gasket and proseal with no leaks at all. But, using proseal made it real tough to get off later. Which is the freferred method? I am tired of the seeps of fuel.

49clipper
N189lEM
RV-6
 
Many people have just used proseal by itself, it works. Getting the plate back off is a pain.

I've had to pull both my access plates once (no cork gasket), I did it by sliding a thin stainless steel ruler through the proseal between the access plate and tank wall, and "slicing" like a knife around the access plate, using a flat blade screwdriver to help keep the gap open. It's not easy to pull it off, but it's better than dealing with leaking tanks, in my opinion.
 
One option is to use the cork gasket but put pro-seal on both sides. No leaks and while not easy, the gasket provides something to slice through if you ever do have to remove the access panel.

Do the same with the fuel level sender gasket.

Carl
 
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-permashield-fuel-resistant-gasket-dressing-flange-sealant-detail

with no gasket, should never be used because it isn't FAA approved, and it will give your dog cancer and your wife AIDS.
But it's kept both of my RV-4 tank covers leak free for the past 14 months. And when I needed to re-open the tank for a *proseal leak*, the cover came off with minimal effort. A match head size dollop in each screw hole prior to screw insertion sealed the (stock) screws. Clean the old with MEK; reapply, done.

Charlie
 
49clipper said:
What is the best way to seal the fuel tank access plate for no leaks. I have used Vans cork gasket with constant leaks, homemade paper gasket which was better but stilled leaked, and no gasket and proseal with no leaks at all. But, using proseal made it real tough to get off later. Which is the freferred method? I am tired of the seeps of fuel.

49clipper
N189lEM
RV-6
Click to expand...

Proseal but contaminate one of the surfaces with very very very little Vaseline, silicone spray, oil or grease.
 
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Pro-Seal, no contamination - do a good job installing it so it won't leak - and with a hair dryer and a plastic picnic knife, it won't be hard to remove. Then use PolyGone to remove the residue. PolyGone acts like paint remover, but for tank sealant.

The job won't take that long.

Dave
 
I just spread some engine oil on both sides of the gasket before installing. It's never leaked in 9 years and 1100 hours of flying.

Jerry Esquenazi
RV-8 N84JE
 
RV8Squaz said:
I just spread some engine oil on both sides of the gasket before installing. It's never leaked in 9 years and 1100 hours of flying.

Jerry Esquenazi
RV-8 N84JE
Click to expand...

The pro seal solution has worked for me since the rotation bracket SB but I really like the gasket better and may try this method when/if I have to open a tank again...worse that that can happen, leak---easy removal and cleanup and reinstall with pro seal.
 
49clipper

Thanks for the replies. I was thinking of the way Carl described with the cork and proseal on both sides. Still thinking about that.
Since I dearly hate leaks, I think just proseal may be the best way and deal with it if needed.
Thanks.
 
There's a sealant made for removable fuel tank access panels. I bought mine from Skygeek I believe. No leaks so far.

Bevan
 
Just went thru this last week after some timely encouragement from this forum. My access plates were Installed with no cork and no vasoline/oil. Just Pro-Seal. I used a reasonably flexible metal putty knife and tapped it until it was inserted and I could 'slice' my way around the cover. 5 minute job.

I can not imagine trying to do this with the wings installed though. Would that even be possible?

Another tip - use screws with a hex socket head instead of those supplied by Vans. Much easier to remove. That Pro Seal is sticky stuff.
 
Or...don't put them in at all. Just mount fittings to the inboard rib.

If there's no hole (or cover plate), it can't leak.
 
Still no leaks?

rv7charlie said:
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-permashield-fuel-resistant-gasket-dressing-flange-sealant-detail

with no gasket, should never be used because it isn't FAA approved, and it will give your dog cancer and your wife AIDS.
But it's kept both of my RV-4 tank covers leak free for the past 14 months. And when I needed to re-open the tank for a *proseal leak*, the cover came off with minimal effort. A match head size dollop in each screw hole prior to screw insertion sealed the (stock) screws. Clean the old with MEK; reapply, done.

Charlie
Click to expand...

Hi Charlie,
Want to hear from you if the panel sealed with Permatex still doing good.

Tks!
 
49clipper said:
What is the best way to seal the fuel tank access plate for no leaks. I have used Vans cork gasket with constant leaks, homemade paper gasket which was better but stilled leaked, and no gasket and proseal with no leaks at all. But, using proseal made it real tough to get off later. Which is the freferred method? I am tired of the seeps of fuel.

49clipper
N189lEM
RV-6
Click to expand...

I had a problem with leaks on gaskets that were prosealed. I removed them, cleaned everything and used cork gaskets and Permatex 80019 Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3 and have been leak free since.
 
This is a test - Permatex 29132 and 85420

FYI I'm running a test on Permatex 29132 and 85420.

Ref https://photos.app.goo.gl/iuPnFFs3DDNDiRnv7

This is in response to rv7charlie's post #4 and my desire to make future access easier.

Permatex has an informative video if you search for "Permatex Solvent Based Gasket Makers"

85420 is the blue stuff called Gasket Dressing and Sealant. This is what rv7charlie used ref post #4.

29132 is the grey stuff called Gasket Maker.

March 2021 - Test started.
May 2021 - The grey stuff started to seep.
July 2022 - The blue stuff (what rv7charlie used ref post #4) is still not leaking so I left it in place. Prepped the surfaces better, re-applied the grey stuff, and re-started the test. You can see in the photos from March 2021 that the paint on the test can is quite tough and did not come off with Scotchbrite or welder's brush; this time I used sandpaper on the can.
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