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11-26-2013, 04:36 PM
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sammamish, WA
Posts: 667
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Securing b-nut hex screw carb heat cable...
My carb heat came with a b-nut and related hardware. This is use to attach the bowden cable to the carb heat actuator arm. The cable is secured with the hex compression screw. What keeps the compression screw from vibrating out? Should this be torqued to a specific value? Should I use blue loctite? Here's a picture of the hardware I'm referring to.
Thanks,
Michael-
__________________
Michael Burbidge
Sammamish, WA
RV-14A Wings
RV-9A Flying 340 hours!
Last Donation: December 2020
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11-26-2013, 04:46 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 3,778
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Yup... Blue Loctite will work and lock it down good and tight.  I would even put a drop over the end when done.
__________________
Reiley
Retired N622DR - Serial #V7A1467
VAF# 671
Repeat Offender / Race 007
Friend of the RV-1
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11-26-2013, 05:57 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 8,275
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Michael,
If you plan to fly a lot you might look into a modification of stock setup. When I was building a lot of flying RVators were complaining about excessive wear and even failure of stock setup.
Bob Axsom had a very good idea on his RV6A and I copied it. Really simple.
After almost 1000 hours the cable and arm are still intact but hinge and carb heat door worn beyond recognition. If I listened I would put baffle material instead of hinge early in my build.

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11-26-2013, 06:24 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 3,035
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carb heat cable attach
mine seems to be working well. secure the nut about half way on the lever. extend the wire thru the nut and then bend the end of the wire so that it contacts the upper fwd edge of the end of the lever and puts load on the nut to keep it from vibrating when in the full open position. secure the cable two places on throttle plate with stand-offs. this will allow for positive forward load on the cable wire so that when you push to the open position you will have some spring back to know it is fully open and it will not vibrate.
__________________
Steve Melton
Cincinnati, OH
RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 800+ for all
Simplicity is the art in design.
I was born an airplane nut. I have no explanation for it.
My Artwork is freely given and published and cannot be patented.
www.rvplasticparts.com
Last edited by Steve Melton : 11-26-2013 at 06:48 PM.
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01-17-2021, 06:14 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Conifer, CO
Posts: 37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad
Michael,
If you plan to fly a lot you might look into a modification of stock setup. When I was building a lot of flying RVators were complaining about excessive wear and even failure of stock setup.
Bob Axsom had a very good idea on his RV6A and I copied it. Really simple.
After almost 1000 hours the cable and arm are still intact but hinge and carb heat door worn beyond recognition. If I listened I would put baffle material instead of hinge early in my build.

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Vlad,
Any chance you have a parts list for your mod?
Thanks,
Dan
__________________
RV-6A N60KD
Navy Vet
Donation made for 2020
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01-17-2021, 07:09 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 8,275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbegeman
Vlad,
Any chance you have a parts list for your mod?
Thanks,
Dan
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I don’t have the list Dan sorry. I am well passed 5K hours and need to rebuild it third time 
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01-17-2021, 08:17 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Ventura, CA
Posts: 207
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A Nifty Thingie
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01-17-2021, 08:50 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lake Havasu City AZ
Posts: 2,431
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rod end
Standard 1/4" shank 3/16" bore rod end bearing from Spruce. Many options least expensive is fine for that application
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01-17-2021, 08:52 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lake Havasu City AZ
Posts: 2,431
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rod end
1/4" x 28 male shank is a better description.
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