What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Oil Door Hinges

DonFromTX

Well Known Member
Sometimes the simplest things can get complex. I am trying to position this type hinge on my oil checking door. Are there instructions anywhere on where to place the hinge on the door and cowling so it works properly?
2hrlwdf.jpg
[/IMG]
 
I got the same style but all one piece (about 4" long) and it was very easy to install and so far has held up really well. It has a spring that will pop it open when it is unlatched.
 
Forward Edge

I installed mine in place of the piano hinge, but basically in accordance with the plan drawings.

The day after I completed the install, a friend dropped by and said "in the Lancairs we put the hinge on the leading edge (forward) of the door; so if we forget to lock them closed the slip-stream holds them closed until we can land."

Having the hinge on the "centerline" side of the door will cause them to lift open - and potentially rip off - if not latched properly.

The "Lancair" style makes good sense and several folks around our area are installing them that way. When mounting on the leading edge, you may need to build-up the cowling a bit to provide a flat surface to prevent binding of the hinges during opening.

As to how to mount your units, I would divide the door area into three equal segments and center a hinge on the demarcating lines.

Hope that helps.
 
Get the longer, one-piece hinge that is spring loaded so that it stays open on its own when unlatched.

erich i
 
I used this style and had no problems. I may have used a spacer under one of the ends, but can't recall. The key is to tape on the oil door where you want it and turn the cowl upside down. then line up hinges, keeping two parts of the hinge parallel for easy movement. Then drill and cleco in place. You'll want to test the fore/aft relationship of the hinge on the door/cowl to adjust it's max opening angle before drilling. I tested and made pencil marks before taping and flipping.

I will add that there are times I wished that I had a spring to hold the door open, but it is no big deal without it.

Larry
 
Last edited:
Hi Larry
If you google "aircraft oil door hinge" there will be images. ACS has them for $40.00. 12-04708.
The Camloc latches KM 610 go well with the door, I installed two. Also be aware these are available for different material thicknesses. I made my door out of Al 0.063. Jet-Tek has them.
 
Last edited:
To answer your question:

With the hinge positioned as you show it on the right, the sharp bend in the movable half should just clear the recessed flange around the cowl opening. If you position the fixed half inside the cowl so that happens, then 'close' the hinge and tape your door in place, that will define where the movable half attaches to the door.

Note that if you make your recessed flange too wide, it will move the hinge too far toward the center of the door, and the edge of the door will hit the cowl before the door opens all the way.

Tape everything together, pull the door-to-cowl tape, and move the door to see what happens. Then tweak for best operation before permanent mounting.

Now, where did you get the hinges? McMaster Carr used to sell them, but I can't find them on their site any more.

Charlie
 
Oil Door Thickness & Stiffness

Does the fiberglass oil door supplied by Van's need to be made thicker or stiffer? Sorry, I hope I'm not high-jacking your post, just looks like a subtopic of Oil Door Hinges.

I see some have made an aluminum door. And some have beefed it up. Is that necessary? Does anyone use the thin fiberglass door as is from Van's and if so is it just fine? How about when using a hidden hinge?

thanks
 
Hi Larry
If you google "aircraft oil door hinge" there will be images. ACS has them for $40.00. 12-04708.
The Camloc latches KM 610 go well with the door, I installed two. Also be aware these are available for different material thicknesses. I made my door out of Al 0.063. Jet-Tek has them.

Why two (2) Camloc latches? Does just one in the center not work good enough to keep door closed?
 
Steve, stiffening the oil door is a good idea. Most of them seem to bow out a bit due to internal cowl pressure.

My own has one centered latch. I run somewhat higher cowl pressure than most due to exit throttling. Call it a special case if you like, but it will bow the door just a smidgen, and it has ten plies of 9oz glass added to the backside.

 
gas door

I used gas door from Dodge Pickup, with hinge forward so wind will keep it closed, many sizes and shapes at your local salvage/junk yard, stiffened cowl where it mounts, stays open by itself...Tom
 
Why two (2) Camloc latches? Does just one in the center not work good enough to keep door closed?

I have just one KM610-64 Camloc and an aluminum oil door (.063) and no bowing or opening in flight in 350 hrs.
 
Last edited:
I get best results with the single wide hidden hinge. One or two camlocks installed per customer's preference, but I always stiffen the door with a foam / glass sandwich on the underside of the door, light & very rigid. No bulging.
 
I used mine as it was from Vans. I did raise the fiberglass all around the door on the cowling. As supplied, the door stuck up a bit. I used piano hinge and one flush mount type latch. Worked great.

I just saw Dan Hortons post/picture above. I don't know if mine does that as I've never seen it from the passenger side. Next time I fly, I'm going to see if I can see it at all. Dan's suggestion to beef it up a bit certainly wouldn't hurt at all! (He is the expert!)
 
Last edited:
Steve. I used two camlocs as a precaution for the door blowing out. Read somewhere this was possible - just to be on the safe side. As I said before I made my door out of 0.063 Al. My camlocs are on the foreword and aft sides of the door.
 
Last edited:
I cannot recall where I got the hinges, but I have four surplus if you are needing some. They are still in a McMaster Carr baggie, so probably got them there some time ago. They are stainless steel hinges, very robust.

To answer your question:

With the hinge positioned as you show it on the right, the sharp bend in the movable half should just clear the recessed flange around the cowl opening. If you position the fixed half inside the cowl so that happens, then 'close' the hinge and tape your door in place, that will define where the movable half attaches to the door.

Note that if you make your recessed flange too wide, it will move the hinge too far toward the center of the door, and the edge of the door will hit the cowl before the door opens all the way.

Tape everything together, pull the door-to-cowl tape, and move the door to see what happens. Then tweak for best operation before permanent mounting.

Now, where did you get the hinges? McMaster Carr used to sell them, but I can't find them on their site any more.

Charlie
 
Due to my P40 nose on my cowling, I suspect I can bow mine outward as well!
2ni9yc6.jpg
[/IMG]
Steve, stiffening the oil door is a good idea. Most of them seem to bow out a bit due to internal cowl pressure.

My own has one centered latch. I run somewhat higher cowl pressure than most due to exit throttling. Call it a special case if you like, but it will bow the door just a smidgen, and it has ten plies of 9oz glass added to the backside.

 
After reading about bulging oil doors I decided to make mine out of .063 aluminum sheet. I massaged it to fit in the curvature of the cowling. The flange on the cowl are made with several layers of glass. One single Hartwell latch in the center. The glass flange got an aluminum insert where the Hartwell latch locks to avoid vibrating it through (picture is still without the insert). It might be on the heavy side but is very robust.

Clevelandtool sells the hidden hinge: http://www.cleavelandtool.com/searchprods.asp



 
Does the fiberglass oil door supplied by Van's need to be made thicker or stiffer? Sorry, I hope I'm not high-jacking your post, just looks like a subtopic of Oil Door Hinges.

I see some have made an aluminum door. And some have beefed it up. Is that necessary? Does anyone use the thin fiberglass door as is from Van's and if so is it just fine? How about when using a hidden hinge?

thanks

Steve,

I used the Vans fiberglass oil door, but I stiffened it up considerably. You will end up cutting a piece of the cowling out for the oil door opening. Use that piece as a stiffener for the oil door. It's exactly the right shape and curvature so it makes a lot of sense. Just epoxy it to the back of the oil door. It will need to be trimmed for the flange. Here's mine in an early stage. This thing is very strong! By the way, you can also see that I used the hidden hinge everyone is also talking about. I love it!

P1030928%20(Medium).JPG


You can also see how I cut out for the latch. I used the push-button type.

P1030930%20(Medium).JPG


Here it is later on, mounted on the cowling and nearly finished:

P1030990%20(Medium).JPG


P1030985%20(Medium).JPG


Edit... I forgot to mention one thing about the Vans fiberglass oil door. The cowling does have a compound curvature. i.e., the forward end of the door has a bit different curvature than the aft end. It's very subtle and you might not notice it if you don't really look close, but the Vans fiberglass oil door is made to match the compound curvature very well (at least mine was). So turn it and try it both ways, and you'll see one orientation that fits better than the other. I was impressed, and quite pleased when I noticed this.
 
Last edited:
After reading about bulging oil doors I decided to make mine out of .063 aluminum sheet.

IMG_0455edit_zpsjdsawh6l.jpg
[/URL]

I did the same, the picture looks just like this on SJ cowl. It did seem that the James cowl had a compound curve and had to locate an english wheel to make all the edges and corners lay down flat. YMMV. BTW - I also bent the latch to fit flush and latch as mounted with the curve. I was surprised it had never been mentioned. .063 2024T6 is tough to bend!!
 
I did the same, the picture looks just like this on SJ cowl. It did seem that the James cowl had a compound curve and had to locate an english wheel to make all the edges and corners lay down flat. YMMV. BTW - I also bent the latch to fit flush and latch as mounted with the curve. I was surprised it had never been mentioned. .063 2024T6 is tough to bend!!

I have a James Cowl and yes, the compound curve made it a little more interesting. I am running a plenum though, so this area of the cowl is not pressurized, and I made my door from .040 sheet which lends itself to shaping more easily. I have a single latch and it does not bulge in flight that I have ever been able to see.
 
In my RC modeling days, I used a lot of sandwich construction. For this application I will make a glass door, then laminate a piece of balsa underneath, but inside the outline of the flange, then apply more glass. The resulting structure will be really stiff and light.

Some real nice workmanship in those pics guys. Hope mine looks that good.
 
Back
Top