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Who's priming what?

Mycool

Mycool

Well Known Member
Just curious to see what people are priming. I've decided to only primer structure parts. Any thought on this? I know Mr VanGrusven doesn't like any thing that's alclad primed.
 
I prime only areas of alclad that mate to other surfaces... or areas that got scratched when working with them.

I also prime pretty much all non alclad parts that aren't already powder coated.
 
I'm priming everything, since I live close to the ocean and may have to park outside for a while. And it just makes me feel better.
 
prime everything

rmartingt said:
I'm priming everything, since I live close to the ocean and may have to park outside for a while. And it just makes me feel better.
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+2 on this
I use Sherwin Williams (same as Vans QB)
I do it for several reasons.
. Resale value. It seems some buyers prefer it.
. My tail kit was preowned and I found light signs of corrosion, so everything inside was scotch brite and primed.
. It easy to shoot everything all at once.
 
I (was) priming everything. I also own a 1947 unprimed Luscombe, which was not primed internally. Every year you hold your breath and hope that no one finds any surprises. Life is too short for that sort of entertainment.
 
Only pushrods inside and out nothing else. Could be LSA if full leather interior removed :)
 
mkaratsonyi said:
I know Mr VanGrusven doesn't like any thing that's alclad primed.
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Really, is that a fact. Could you please refer us to any document in which Vans states that alclad surfaces on an RV7(A) should not be primed.

Considering that Vans applies primer to all internal alclad surfaces on their RV7(A) Quickbuilds, I'm struggling to believe the veracity of your statement. :rolleyes:
 
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I bet that QB kits come primed mainly because that's what most builders want, not because the alclad parts need it.
 
I have a '52 C170B that has spent it's entire life (except for 3 years before I bough tit) tied outside. I've been all through this plane several times and the few spots with corrosion are very minor. 45 of those years were in Georgia.

I have a spot in the tail where there was a bee's nest at one time that will need addressed in the next 5 or 10 years. Once a year, I try to spray WD40 into any nook and cranny I can reach.


What is the estimated weight penalty of priming?
Not the super heavy primer jobs some folks do but rather a light priming like the quick builds?
But, if you're really worried about weight, skip the custom leather interior or...skip the primer and paint on the OUTSIDE of the plane :D

I for one will be priming a great deal of my RV7 (once I get the garage built so I can start the plane).
Not because I think the plane needs it in the slightest...
But because so many other people think they need it...and I plan to sell it to one of them someday.
 
I usually don't respond to negative or non helpful replies because I got better things to do like build! But you may contact the man himself to verify your own information.

Mr gasman
Please do not respond if you don't have anything positive or helpful to say.
 
mkaratsonyi said:
I usually don't respond to negative or non helpful replies because I got better things to do like build! But you may contact the man himself to verify your own information.

Mr gasman
Please do not respond if you don't have anything positive or helpful to say.
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This is what you said: "I know Mr VanGrusven doesn't like any thing that's alclad primed."

I was inclined to believe your claim was untrue and I asked you to refer to any material from Vans that would substantiate your statement. Not surprisingly you have not been able to do so.

Look, if your plan is to get your aircraft flying at the cheapest possible cost or in the shortest possible time and want to skip the priming....then fine. That's your decision to make.

But please don't insinuate that you're skipping the priming due to Van's recommendation and hence encourage other new builders to go down the same path based on false information. That's what I take issue with. ;)
 
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If you two are done bickering ill answer the question.

I used the Robust Akzo Nobel epoxy primer for the insides of the wings, ailerons, flaps and horizontal stabilizer because there is really no good access here for inspection or repairs. The VS and rudder are easily replaceable if corrosion ever becomes an issue, furthermore I wore surgical gloves and left the blue plastic on as long as possible while building these. My QB fuse came with a cheap *** wash primer that I think would have been better left off, because it appears the surface was scuffed prior to priming. The inside of the fuse is easily accessible for inspection or repairs if needed. I am not priming any parts moving forward. It's probably less time consuming to simply replace IF it becomes an issue. Take the wheel pants for example, you could change out a nose wheel support bracket in less than an hour...
 
I originally asked the primer question because of what the builder manual states about priming and what everyone else does and how/where they do it. I quoted Richard VanGrunsven because it is his design, which means he had a part in creating the builder manual. If you want something in writing look in manual about priming.

Thank you all for your comments on priming, I know there is a lot of knowledge out there and appreciate all the input.
 
Well .. for what it is worth .. the wash primer used on the QB are not considered 'very good' in UK ..it is wet and humid here ... As the photos show of the RV8 that did the trans Atlantic flight .. Very green here :) .. you need lots of rain for that .. So people tend to spray the various type of anti corrosion product to try and improve protection.

For non QB kits - I would say most people prime everything .. it also helps on resale value
 
sherwin williams

The SW product used on the QB parts is in the manual. I have found it very tough. It is supposed to have zinc chromate in it and even though it is very thin, I am told it serves more as a sacrificial layer than a barrier. Personally I like it because it's so easy to mix and shoot. I kind like the color too. It's so thin I can see my part numbers and index marks through the color so I don't have to mark them after priming. I do shoot small steel parts with the NAPA rattle can stuff to avoid disimilar metals touching.
 
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