RV-7/7a Plan Gottcha's

[Iluke]

Originally Posted by Raymo

If installing the fuel pump/filter on the inside, just forward of the selector valve, the firewall doubler won't be needed as depicted in OP 32.

For the brake reservoir, I only drilled out one existing rivet, if I recall. I don't think the spacing of the reservoir holes is not the same as the rivet spacing.

Ray-

I may have misspoke, but I think is is the firewall doubler shown on DWG 19 that you don't need if you're installing the fuel injection high pressure inside pump. I'm referring to the F-601Z Aux Fuel Pump Doubler shown in the lower right hand corner of DWG 19.

The doubler shown on Op 32, if I am reading the plans right, is needed even with the FI pump to strengthen the firewall where the fuel line passes through.

If I'm understanding this wrong (it's happened, let me tell you!), please set me straight..

r/
Ivan

[jcarne]

I have attached a picture with a red arrow. The plans have you rivet E-704 and E-703 together before attaching to the elevator spar. However, when you go to rivet these ribs to the elevator spar you can't get most squeezers on these two rivets and they are difficult to buck as you need to use an offset tool. You can avoid this problem if you FIRST rivet E-704 to the spar and then rivet E-703 rib to E-704.

[Lemmingman]

This is for the RV7 only. When you are fitting your R-911, make sure you take the tail wheel spring into account. The diagram shows a 3/16" distance between the spring and fairing. I dont think this can be accurate. When the tail is on the ground it is going to flex some. I have 3/8" on mine and I'm comfortable with that. I have seen other posters here that have as much as 3/4".

[BillL]

DWG 11 clearly shows that the lower bolts have washers under the aft heads, and upper bolts get a washer under the nut on the forward side. But - the lower bolts have a gusset under the nuts. Thickness of the washer and nut it is 1/8". Since the all bolts are the same length, an additional washer will be needed or the nut will bottom out on the bolt shoulder before clamping on the upper bolts.

"Proof" This picture clearly shows an exposed bolt and a tight bolt with nut and two standard washers. I will reconfigure with one washer on each end.

Get some extra washers, and make a note on your drawing to put washers under the heads of all the main spar bolts. You will need them. (edit)

BTW - I machined two progressive sizes of burnish pins to burnish/align the thinner webs. There were lubed and driven all holes and resulted in removable bolts that were assembled with no chilling.

[tgmillso]

Hi Bill. Good find. This happens a lot throughout the build, so it's handy to have an assortment of regular and thin washers in hand and verify bolt length requirements are satisfied before taking to final torque. That said, there is a note in this case at the top of the Front Wing Spar Attach Detail in DWG 11 that says ad AN960-716 and AN960-416 washers as required to the top bolts.
Tom.

[wirejock]

Don't follow the VS-702 Trim Detail. 5/8" is way too much. I didn't even cut that much and missed the edge distance. Now I get to fabricate a new F-781 Vertical Stab Attach Plate.Grrrr.
Start with 1/4" or less. Better still, clamp the VS in place. Not exact but pretty close to where it belongs. set the spar as close to vertical as safe. Clamp it but not super tight. Just trying to get a ball park. Mark the cut line based on where the forward spar lands in relation to the top of the HS. That's a good starting point. Cut short of that line then fine tune after it is mounted exactly where it belongs. Better to install a few extra times than make a new part.
Edit. 01/16/18
I fabricated a new F781, 1/4" longer. This fixed the hole edge distance problem at the bottom of the forward spar. My VS was happiest positioned with the spar aft of the F781 plate. An additional .032" shim brought everything into perfect alignment. Here's a few tips on the process.
I match drilled the shim to F781 to #40 but parts were difficult to keep positioned so I used the fat rivet technique. F781 and the shim were clekoed together then long #3 rivet was placed in a hole, parts set on a back rivet plate and the rivet smacked with a hammer to swell it. Four fat rivets hold the two parts in alignment while the VS is positioned and clamped.
For aft alignment, I used a few fishing weights and very light fishing line. The weight at the top is cone shaped and holds the string centered in the top hinge bracket hole. The string is threaded through the middle and bottom hinge bracket then tied to weights like a plumb line.
Adjust per Vans dimensions port and starboard then adjust the forward height till the string falls perfectly centered. Your mileage may vary.

[wirejock]

Pay close attention to the cabin components when fabricating the Fuel Tank Vent Lines inside the fuse. The line makes a jiggle so it doesn't interfere with F7105B-R&L Outboard Sub Panels. I just spent a bunch of time removing them and fabricating new ones. Make them and leave them out or loose so the rivets on the top skin can be reached to buck.

[Raymo]

Originally Posted by wirejock

Pay close attention to the cabin components when fabricating the Fuel Tank Vent Lines inside the fuse. The line makes a jiggle so it doesn't interfere with F7105B-R&L Outboard Sub Panels. I just spent a bunch of time removing them and fabricating new ones. Make them and leave them out or loose so the rivets on the top skin can be reached to buck.

Another option is to use the Rocket style (source of name unk) vents inside the wing root. Mine were both done in hours vs days. They usually only have 3 loops. I got carried away with this one

[Bullseye]

Originally Posted by Raymo

Another option is to use the Rocket style (source of name unk) vents inside the wing root. Mine were both done in hours vs days.

Raymo, any more information on this method? Is it documented in the Rocket Manuals?

[pazmanyflyer]

Originally Posted by Bullseye

Raymo, any more information on this method? Is it documented in the Rocket Manuals?

Search "rocket style" or "coiled" vent lines. here are just a few...

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...tyle+fuel+vent
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...tyle+fuel+vent
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...tyle+fuel+vent
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...tyle+fuel+vent