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Rudder bottom rubs tailspring

Blain

Well Known Member
Seems to be a bit closer then the plans show. Wondering how others have corrected this problem. And I was so proud of how it fit:D
 
OUCH

I would have to take your word, that you have a good Ruder fit to the "V.S." as that would be number one priority. And the same go's for the tail wheel mount and it's A.O.A. If those are good then you can take the lower fiberglass cap off and trim it to fit better. There is always some adjusting going on to the glass work as you go together. I see what looks to be a pop-rivet holding the cap on in you "JPG". Drill them back off and do what most of us do. Rework the shape and fit till you like it. You may be able to trim a little off the top edge all the way around and that will seat it a little higher. And the big curve at the front can be cut down or out and reshaped. Again recheck all of you fit to airframe first, because the glass is none structural. You can do what you wish with it even leave it off. The thing will still go, but not as fast. Hope this helps. Yours as always R.E.A. III #80888
 
#6 Torx head holding it on so no trouble to remove it. The fiberglass parts have all fit extremely well to this point. Really don't want to violate the profile. Considering ordering another and trimming it more on the upper edge.
 
Rudder bottom

I cut the bottom off mine, glued in some foam and re-shaped it.
The -14 kit comes with directions for doing just as Crabandy suggests. Note the flat area at the front bottom of the fairing. The idea is to match the angle of the tailspring. Instead of foam, the -14 uses two layers of fiberglass cloth.

a3igs4.jpg
 
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I should clarify, after I re-shaped it I added a couple layers of glass and blended it with filler. I still haven't painted it so much easier .
 
I had to trim the sides so it raised the heal of the fairing. I believe some type of modification is required for all the side-by-side RV's so it wouldn't surprise me if the same mod is required on the -8.
 
The -14 kit comes with directions for doing just as Crabandy suggests. Note the flat area at the front bottom of the fairing. The idea is to match the angle of the tailspring. Instead of foam, the -14 uses two layers of fiberglass cloth.

a3igs4.jpg

Ah! Foam. Good plan.
Thanks.
 
It's strange that mine just fit. We have the same vintage kits I think... Maybe I should lay down there and check how close it is for comparison next time I'm at the airport.
 
Hi Blain
For refrerence what is the distance from the front of the rudder horn to the bottom of the fairing where it rubs on the tailspring
 
It's strange that mine just fit. We have the same vintage kits I think... Maybe I should lay down there and check how close it is for comparison next time I'm at the airport.
I suppose the glass part is trimmed after pulled from the mold. Maybe inconsistancy it that process?

Hi Blain
For refrerence what is the distance from the front of the rudder horn to the bottom of the fairing where it rubs on the tailspring
I got 2 3/8"


 
Rudder stop alignment

It may be an optical illusion but does the rudder stop make the correct contact. Looks to me like the entire rudder is sitting a little low. But really not sure how that could happen.
 
The tail spring will flex. If you search the forums you'll find that you need more than static clearance. And find recommendations for the amount.

On mine, I simply cut off and reglassed for ~3/4" clearance.
 
Did you not see this before you painted the tail section?

Painted each component separately and as built.

I have to add, I don't remember anything instructing to trim the glass part to fit prior to final assembly. Maybe that is naïve but it looked like it fit correctly as provided. This is the emp kit. 1st time builders don't get all the nuances Vans leaves unaddressed.

I'll know better on my next build...
 
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oh sure, now we have the rulers out... sigh. I did't take that picture last night, but here's my clearance. As I remember I just trimmed to the parting line on the parts.

Untitled by akarmy, on Flickr
 
Thanks for the pic, Andy.
Maybe I left the parting line, I can't remember. But I have a new plan if I can steer the Demel straight enough. Removing a wedge and glassing back together. Should maintain the lines of the part.
 
fin height differences

I recall when it was time to mount the fin on the fuselage, there were two different measurements on the plans for the height to set the fin on the aft fuselage bulkhead before match-drilling. An old dimension had been replaced by a new one, then the new one crossed out and the old one written in again.
I vaguely recall that there was even a written dimension in the text of the instructions, but can't swear to that.


ANYWAY, I mounted the rudder on the fin, test fit the fin to the fuselage, and found that the revised fin height dimension caused this exact problem, whereas the original dimension worked right. So I did that.

My kit was before the full matched-hole -1 fuselage. The newer matched-hole kits are probably different here. But if your kit is the same vintage as mine, this is probably what happened to you.
 
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