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Rudder Tip Screws?

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Anon455

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I want to be able to remove the rudder tip (other tips for that matter) for access/inspection purposes and would like to know of anyone who has substituted nut-plates and what/if any problems they encountered.
 
Not on the -8, but on both my projects the rudder bottom is held using #6 screws, as are my wing tips (I'm going to try the 'hidden hinge' for the -10). No problems with the -6A flying since 2008. It's an easy mod.
 
Just be mindful that excessive weight aft of the hinge line can lead to flutter issues. Now I imagine the difference between steel screws and aluminum rivets is pretty small, but don’t get too complacent about things like this.
 
I used 4-40 as well for the top and #6 for the bottom.

Suggestion - stagger the last screws on the thin end so they don't interfere.
 
I would say the rudder (and HS) tip is a pretty low priority area for inspection -- would recommend KISS unless there's some specific reason for it.

I did put my wingtips on with #6 screws /nutplates to keep options open w.r.t. wingtip antennae. Never did that but I do currently use one of the screws for a GOPRO mount :rolleyes:
 
I would say the rudder (and HS) tip is a pretty low priority area for inspection -- would recommend KISS unless there's some specific reason for it.

I did put my wingtips on with #6 screws /nutplates to keep options open w.r.t. wingtip antennae. Never did that but I do currently use one of the screws for a GOPRO mount :rolleyes:

Randall did you have problems using screws on the rudder tip? Is that why you didn't use screws? Do you not inspect the security of the counter-weight or the tip rib during the conformity inspections? Or check for corrosion in the bottom? How do you inspect those items?
 
Yes, 4/40

The 4-40 countersunk screws have the same profile as AN426-3 rivets.
They work extremely well when you consider your edge distance and the amount of aluminum that becomes displaced when you dimple the skin. Take a scrap piece of aluminum and a scrap piece of fiberglass install a 4/40 and a 6/32 nut plate and see which size you like better.

I did all my empanage fiberglass tips with 4/40 hardware.
 
4-40

I attached the bottom rudder fairing with 4-40 countersunk screws. 6-32 would work, but not necessary.

The only watch out is the placement of the screw where the tip narrows / tapers to the trailing edge. Make sure the screws after passing through the nutplate don't interfere with each other.
 
After having to remove the bottom rudder fairing on my -7 twice to troubleshoot the tail nav/strobe, I installed #6 plates and SS screws (had them on hand). Have since had it off twice to finally fix the bad molex pin crimp that evaded my far-from-eagle-eye vision.
 
Randall did you have problems using screws on the rudder tip? Is that why you didn't use screws?
No, it's because the plans called for rivets and I didn't see a need to do otherwise.

Do you not inspect the security of the counter-weight or the tip rib during the conformity inspections? Or check for corrosion in the bottom? How do you inspect those items?

The rudder tip is among those things that are closed in and not accessible to inspection -- oh well. Mine is a -6 with no counterweight, but my elevator tips are also also riveted on; I can see the exposed face of the counterweights and check their security without removing anything. I check the bottom as best I can with a small mirror and flashlight. I also have a borescope, maybe I'll look in there with that one of these days. :rolleyes:

The thing is, all interior surfaces are primed and the plane is hangared, 1/4 mile from the pacific ocean. In 21 years I've never seen a spot of corrosion anywhere except for exposed steel parts. Of course I inspect for corrosion wherever I can get to but at the end of the day since all the places I can see are fine I don't worry overly about the places I can't. But if you feel better being able to access it then by all means do so, I'm just offering an opinion.
 
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