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Baffle question

bret

Well Known Member
So....I'm working on the baffles......and....Ok, those of you that have done yours can stop laughing now.......um, did you rivet everything together or did install nut plates in the corners? or center back wall? this is one interesting puzzle, can't imagine doing one from scratch. and paint? .......scratch that.....yip!
 
They will fit after riveting. Sometimes you have to hold your tongue just right to get them in. I've had mine on and off multiple times for fitting. I've got a narrow deck engine so had to tweak mine more than most. I've got primer on them and they are getting scratched. I'm holding off final paint until I'm sure it's the last time to install them.
 
Hum, I've got the narrow deck also, why did you take them off? Did you guys leave the side front and rear cylinder pieces not riveted, and the rear wall L and R not riveted?
 
On the right side you can simply rivet the rear baffle and the aft side baffle together after they are installed on the engine. The rear baffles stay in two parts, left and right, and are only held together by the AN3 mounting bolts. This can be done after final baffle paint.

Same on the left side, but may be a bit more complicated by what your assembly is like around the oil cooler.

Working this way, many less bad words were needed during the cut and fit stage. I have a narrow deck O-360 and a lot more trimming seemed to be needed around the engine case. I also had to make a special CB-1007B bracket to clear the case contours.
 
You should give yourself a break after all the other painting you've done. Baffles are just fine in aluminum au natural.
 
Hum, I've got the narrow deck also, why did you take them off? Did you guys leave the side front and rear cylinder pieces not riveted, and the rear wall L and R not riveted?

Mine are in 4 pieces, front and back, left and right. They went on and off as I built them up because, like you, I wasn't sure if they could once riveted. I also needed to trim around the case. They have also been on and off as I fit the upper cowling and trimmed them to fit. Mark, trim, check... rinse and repeat. First without the inlet ramps and then with. Now I'm working on the seals and expect a couple more iterations.

Like Gil, I also had to make a new top front case bracket and do some surgery to the aft one.
 
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I kept mine unpainted as well. I figured they would get scratched up installing them and doing maintenance on plugs and baffle seals.
 
13 Hrs straight on baffles...my brain is now nutty......done for the day. I have EFII and rear governor, so the R front area is busy with prop line, and Hall sensors loom conduit. had to do nut plates at R front and R lower forward piece. I want to do a plenum lid maybe aluminum? I have seen one guy bend the baffle top part tabs in and nutplate to hold a carbon fiber top, but I don't know how strong that 2024 baffle material is, once bent it is closer to cracking, I have seen Dan H lid, nice work there, then one guy used angle on the inside? suggestions.......
 
13 Hrs straight on baffles...my brain is now nutty......done for the day. I have EFII and rear governor, so the R front area is busy with prop line, and Hall sensors loom conduit. had to do nut plates at R front and R lower forward piece. I want to do a plenum lid maybe aluminum? I have seen one guy bend the baffle top part tabs in and nutplate to hold a carbon fiber top, but I don't know how strong that 2024 baffle material is, once bent it is closer to cracking, I have seen Dan H lid, nice work there, then one guy used angle on the inside? suggestions.......

yeah, you can bend 2024, just pay close attention to the minimum bend radius. It does NOT shrink and stretch well. You could use 6061 and that would be formable and weldable if needed. Actually, I think you could make a lid over some foam like DanH, then remove the baffles, flip on top of the lid and make a glass flange inside. Either should work well, bonding to aluminum flange, or making a glass one. Absolutely use some core material for stiffness, though. I would not worry about the weight, as a plenum/inlets are about the same weight as a roll of baffle material.

You can see DanH or Pete Howells posts about foaming the top of the engine to make a buck. Dan used pour in place, I think Pete used some big blocks. If you use the big block method, you could make it removable to assist with the flange making process. I see lots of sanding in your future.
 
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