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RV7 Vern Head 71139

vernh59

Active Member
Greetings all,
Well after lurking here for an eternity I have finally started a 7. I purchased an old kit from a friend to start with because it came with assorted tools and it was partly assembled...more on that later.
It took what seems like months to carve out a space in my garage {the family storage unit} to have a place to work. It still needs some upgrades but it has the basics for now. Im sure Ill be waiting on something someday and ill take care of the little things.
Standard disclaimer, this log represents how I do things, not how YOU should do things. YOU have to decide that for yourself. My opinion is worth exactly what you pay for it. Fire away if you have suggestions, Im always open to constructive criticism.

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The skeleton ready to go together. This is when I started thinking about the "optional" lightning holes in the spar doubler. I called Vans and asked the forum and cut the holes as per the plans. newer kits have the holes already cut so that told me something.

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The rear spar all riveted up. I did have to drill out a few rivets here. I learned (I hope) that its important to pay attention to the bar but, if you don't pay attention to that gun, your gonna be drilling out the rivet anyway and may be replacing parts.

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The frame all riveted and crammed into the skin. I think the skin got pinched over the years as the tip rib and the nose rib really didn't want to go in there when i fit it to match drill. This time I started at the tip rib and worked my way back. Same with the nose rib. Worked much better.

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Most of the rivets are in place for the frame. Now I have to rivet the perimeter. The plans say to use a squeezer but I need to make peace with that gun so I used it.

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All buttoned up. No damage and no smileys! This time. Now to peal the 16+ year old blue off.

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Better than I thought it might be. No signs of corrosion, just the exposed skin is little more shiny.

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I worked on it for a few minutes with a MF towel and it looks much better.

On to the next thing.
 
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Nice work, Vern, and welcome to VAF!. I have a friend in your area that is a Chinook pilot at Ft. Rucker and I plan to fly in for a visit in the near future. Let me know if you'd like to go up in my -7A. I plan to fly into 7J1.
 
Nice work, Vern, and welcome to VAF!. I have a friend in your area that is a Chinook pilot at Ft. Rucker and I plan to fly in for a visit in the near future. Let me know if you'd like to go up in my -7A. I plan to fly into 7J1.

Appreciate the offer Ray. let me know when your in town.
 
Kit

I think may have heard about this kit. Glad to see you are making some progress Vern. If you need a hand just let me know.
 
I haven't been posting but I have been busy. I decided to build the rudder next. First, I wanted to check my table to see if the top was level. I suspected it was not.
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I shimmed the top to take the sway out of it and it was just right, for now.
[
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Now on with the rudder. As the instructions say, I used leftover ply from my EAA tables screwed to the top of my table to drill 300 holes in.
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Next, I layed out the skins and cut the stiffeners. I made a mistake here and grabbed a stick of elevator stiffeners. They are NOT the same. Hope I have enough for the elevators. If not, I know who to call.
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With the skins deburred and dimpled Ill prime them tomorrow and start the assembly.
 
Primed the stiffeners.and started assembly of the skeleton. I'm using Stewart System Eko prime but, for the stiffeners, i just grabbed a rattle can.
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Starting to assemble the skeleton.
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Radius 405PP to match the radius of 904 rib.
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The tip rib required some fluting to flatten it out before it could be attached.
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Attached the tip rib and the counterbalance rib and skin.
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Attached skins for final drilling. One thing about the stiffeners. Make sure the end against the spar is cut back far enough to not touch the spar. i had interference that had to be corrected before the skin would lay properly.
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Ready to match drill the skins.
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Fitting and final drilling the rudder horn and support.
 
Late night starting the assembly of the rudder.
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Assembling the spar and reinforcing plates. Have to be careful here. Two on the front and one on the back.
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I decided to squeeze these rivets. I like it.
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This group of parts took some time trying to make sure everything is where it should be. These are -6 and -7 rivets. A tall order for a hand squeezer but the Main Squeeze handled them.
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Note to self: check EVERY rivet for the right length. I will drill and replace the two outboard rivets. There isn't enough shops head.
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Putting the skins on for the last time....I hope. I was able to squeeze 4 of the six rivets you set at this stage in the counterbalance skin. It was too late to start the compressor so they will have to wait.
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Overall, pretty happy with the rudder skins. Yes, I made mistakes (nothing structural) and there are dings. Im gonna call it personality and build on.
 
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Finished riveting the counterbalance skin to the rudder skin and spar. I installed the tip rib and began riveting the skin to the spar.
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I used the squeezer for most of the rivets on the skin. I only riveted about half way back on the tip rib and the bottom rib because I wanted to be able to split the trailing edge without bending anything.
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I decided to use epoxy for the trailing edge. I split the TE and placed a glob of RTV at the stiffeners and then applied the epoxy to the AEX and the TE skins and clamped it all to an aluminum angle to keep it straight.
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Looks pretty good so far. Lots of opportunity to build in a twist when riveting so it's not over.
 
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After all the clecos were removed I took a look at the TE. Overall, i'm pretty happy with it, so far. There is some "pillowing" between the clecos where the epoxy didn't squeeze out uniformly. I tried to correct this while it was wet but I missed a few. I don't think it will be noticeable.
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Rivets in place and taped. But first....
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I took the time to inset my new back riveting plate as recommended. This one is from Cleveland. I used a plate that I found at the aviation department of Lowes but it was much shorter, thinner and I didn't inset it. Consequently, I had a little pillowing around some of the rivets in the rudder stiffeners that shouldn't have been there. Maybe this will help.
 
Next I had planned on building the H stab. Some of you building second hand kits know, you can't be sure what your buying.
This is the H405 inner tip rib. It should have two equally spaced holes in it through the front spar. Yes, it has too many holes too. I decided the best way to fix this is to order new parts.
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Next, I started the right elevator. I cut and shaped the stiffeners. This went much faster than the rudder. It's pretty much the same thing. I prepped them for assembly, primed them and back riveted in place.
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After buying the right back riveting plate and insetting it into the table, the rivets looked much better.
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No pillowing like i had on the rudder skins.
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Next I started assembling the skeleton. After the rudder this seemed to make sense.
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When I tried to attach the skin to the skeleton I had a real fight trying to get the skin to lie down. Re-reading the instructions, I discovered I missed the bend the trailing edge step. :mad:
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It took a couple of tries but I finally got the bend right.
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Next, take it all apart and prep for assembly but, before that I applied the SB for the spar.
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Then the primer.
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Then reassembly.
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I used the squeezer for the rivets where I could. I pulled the rivets in the trailing edge positions.
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One side down, one to go.
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Nice work, Vern. I made it over last month but only for a night and didn't have time to contact you. A retired Army friend and Chinook pilot at Rucker lives nearby. He and his son (studying for his A&P) are considering a -14 build and I suspect they'd like to stop by and chat with you. If interested in a visit, PM or email and I'll pass on their contact information.
 
Its been awhile since I posted. Ive been building but life and the temps in the shop slowed me down. Getting a little more done now.

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Starting on the left elevator. Prepping the skins for the stiffener.

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Before I fastened the stiffeners to the skin, I thought I would try to bend the trim tab close out on the elevator. I was not looking forward to this and I was not disappointed. Yup, tore the skin. I folded the top tab then the lower tab. This is reversed.

When I tried to unfold and refold the skin tore. My fault. New skin.

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new skin on the way so I will continue the build up of the skeleton.

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Didn't get very many pics but the new skin is here and stiffeners attached. Fitting the trim tab servo doubler and cover plate.

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That should work.

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assembling the elevator one more time.

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Couldn't get the folded tabs to look right and, having already replaced the skin once, I decided to cut the tabs off and go with riblets. This pic is the initial fit. I decided to reverse the rib so it is flush with the elevator cut out.

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Fitting the trim tab hinge. You can see the riblet. This tab is the most frustrating part of the build so far. I know, I know..."just wait till..........."

Not a lot of pics on the tab. It is fitted and it looks good. Not great, but good.

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The gap came out pretty close. More importantly, the TE is spot on.

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Now on the the HS.
 
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Starting to assemble the HS forward spar.

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HS forward spar with ribs attached

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Skin in place and ready to rivet on.

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view of forward spar with AD doublers installed. Glad I didn't have to take one apart to do this.
 
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Fuselage Kits HERE

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Got a call that my kit was in town, well, close, so I went to pick it up. There it is covered with something heavy and damaged. Couldn't believe it.

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After they drug it out you could see the side was broken loose.

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Doesn't look too bad.

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After getting the crate open, I could see all was well. Only one bent tab that's easy to fix. Now for the inventory.

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All closed up. Checked for level in several places.

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Next, rolling the leading edges of the elevators. Ive been putting this off. What a PITA!!. The left was first and I didn't get it rolled quite enough so there is some pillowing between the rivets. The right came out much better.

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Elevators attached and checking for alignment. I measured the rod ends to get them as close to the same as possible. No binding.

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With the elevators clamped in trail, the trailing edges look good.

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From what I've seen, pretty typical misalignment.

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Carefully drilled the horns per the directions. First using the a drill through a bushing and then a unibit for final sizing.

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Final drilling complete and reinstalled the elevators. The hinge works great. No binding and the elevators seem to be well balanced.
 
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Maybe it just the camera angle, but if that's the final position of the elevators, it doesn't look like the cutout notch in the aft h/s spar is wide enough to prevent the horns from hitting it at full down elevator?
 
I noticed it because I'm putting together a new H/S for an old kit I bought and I'm debating whether there's enough advantage to cutting that notch ahead of time to temporarily attach the elevators to the aft spar in red to get hat dimension, or if it's easier to wait until I've got the HS complete and do it then
 
I noticed it because I'm putting together a new H/S for an old kit I bought and I'm debating whether there's enough advantage to cutting that notch ahead of time to temporarily attach the elevators to the aft spar in red to get hat dimension, or if it's easier to wait until I've got the HS complete and do it then

This is an abandoned kit that I took over. The notch you see was from the original builder. I would wait and make the cut after you assemble the elevators to the rear spar. Just be sure and protect the spar while you cut the web. I used a scrap piece of aluminum and patience.
 
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Starting the fuselage with laying out the stiffeners and fabricating brackets and doublers. Already had to order another angle because I cut the angle too short. Have to be more careful laying out these parts. :mad:
 
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One of the first things in the fuselage is to build these brackets. I cut them to size and cleaned them up. Next I clamped them in place and back drilled. What i didn't do, is round the back of this angle so it would sit in the angle behind. The holes then were WAY too close to the other flange. Oh well. Try again.

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Dimpling the firewall. Have to remember the AN426 rivets smooth face is AFT. All others are forward,

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LOTS of countersinking on these aluminum angles.
 
Been busy with the holidays and such but still working.
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Starting work on the spar carry through. Installing nutplates.

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Nutplates installed

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Fitting the end pieces

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Bulkhead stiffeners fitted

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Fitting cover plate supports.

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Rivets installed. I used the squeezer where it would reach. Once again, it had been awhile since I installed any rivets and it showed.

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Finished except for the spar spacers. Had to order -14 rivets. They may be here somewhere.

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Per the instructions, I assembled the control sticks then removed them. Ill put this bulkhead aside for now.
 
Vern with that bulkhead loose it is a good time to consider your equipment and make some extra holes in that spar web. Vans has a template for that showing what is permissible.

War Eagle!!
 
Vern with that bulkhead loose it is a good time to consider your equipment and make some extra holes in that spar web. Vans has a template for that showing what is permissible.

War Eagle!!

Big +1. It can be done without adding a hole but it's not fun and it's close. If I could do it again I would of added a couple holes at this point. Also, with your control column, make sure that puppy is perfect and moves like it is on air. If you want to see what I recently did to fix my friction problem see post 468 here.
 
I ran some wires/static tubing underneath both canopy rails to prevent having to drill holes in the spar. Works good
 
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Assembling the F705 bulkhead. Drilling the Anti-Splat, almost 14, attachment.

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Primed and read for rivets. Fortunately, I could squeeze most of these.

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Installing the nut plates.

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Riveting the Anti-splat attachment.

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Done.

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Assembling rear spar carry through.

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Spar straps

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Seat belt attachments

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Starting the F 706 bulkhead components. Drilling the reinforcing angles.

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Assembling the bulkhead for match drilling.

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Primed bell crank riveting together.

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assembled 728 and 729 angles.

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Assembled F730, F728 and F729

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F706 ready to rivet together.

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F707 assembled for riveting.

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Double bulkhead F711.
 
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F712 Bulkhead

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Thats a pile of bulkheads

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Next, The dreaded longeron bend. I could have put this off for awhile but it has to be done. I carefully measured and re measured the bend area and overall length of the longerons. These measurements have to be made BEFORE you make the bends.

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LONG

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I marked the bend area in inch increments so I would have a way to tell how far I progressed along the bend.

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Its a slow process. Probably slower than necessary. The Buller form instructions say to be careful not to over bend the longerons.

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very nice pics

Great pictures! What photo sharing site do you use? I've been trying to get some great pics attached like that but SmugMug doesn't seem to like my Mac.
Thanks,
SteveL
 
It is Smug mug and all I have are Macs. Upload the pic, select it and choose the size, then you can get info and copy the link. Paste that in the link for your post and it?s done. A little awkward at first but good results. I select large size for my pics.
 
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First longeron bent to match the 1-1 drawing. It took about 5 passes with the forms but Im pretty sure i didn't use enough force to make a difference on a couple of them.. Here I have attached the cover. Shims were added to the side to simulate the skin.

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From the top.

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Drilled and Cocos installed.

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Starting the bend for the right side.

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Checking the downward bend form the forward bulkhead edge.

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Checking the inward twist on the right side.

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Glad to be done with these. Not as bad as I imagined. The forms worked great (Thanks Steve.)

My shop is a wreck!!!
 
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"Lets assemble some bulkheads" they said...."It will be fun they said!" Well, these are a bear. I fought with this skin for awhile before I could get the Clecos to line up. I suggest you work with the skin to form it so that the bulkhead fits the skin instead of trying to pull the skin with the Clecos. This skin is thick. I put a 2x4 in a vise, thin edge up and gradually worked the bend at the aft end until the bulkhead just fit. This made the clecos alignment almost perfect.

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First cut for the tailwheel spring. Lots of smoothing to do.
 
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NOW we're getting somewhere. It was good to get this assembly together. Suddenly the shop was pretty crowded. In a good way. I need to remove the J stiffeners and finish the ends and the final dimensions. Then I can drill them together.

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Using levels, I found a 1 degree difference in angles between the front and rear bulkheads. Ill check the "twist" using the tooling marks before drilling.
 
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Put the Lazer level and checked the alignment. Everything looked good to me.

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Looks better in the dark.

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Here we go. i started drilling the bottom skin to the F728 stiffener then worked out to the edges of the bottom skin, then up. Seemed like a good way to start since the bottom skin is the base for all the other skins.

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The porcupine look.

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The FAA pic. Drilling the J channel.

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Done with that. The levels show the fuse is straight. Now to take it all apart.
 
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