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Jack solution

Bill.Peyton

Bill.Peyton

Well Known Member
I am at the point where I need to make some jacks for the 10. I have seen a couple of examples using two Harbor F. 24" bottle jacks, adding a bottom plate and a top plate, then jacking from the fuse immediately under the spar. What are folks doing for a solution, I am soliciting any ideas?
 
Here's what I did. It's a little more beefy, than just welding a plate to the bottom. I got a friend to fabricate a piece that screws into the tiedown hole and then slides over the top of the jack piston and a friend of his did the welding. This helps with stability when the jack is in the air.

I know if at least one person that looked into selling these, but the problem is that the freight will most likely be more than these cost to make. Any good welder should be able to fabricate with minimal direction.

FP23102011A00056.jpg
 
Bob,
I can assume the jacking it from the tie down locations is approved by Vans. I think I remember reading it somewhere, it just fails me at the moment. I was going to jack it from the center, although it might not be as stable. On my Piper there is a jack plate built into the structure that has a nub to center and hold the jack from slipping. Your jacks look great !
Bill
 
I was thinking of using a similar method as you Greg, but supporting it under the spar the entire length. I would just glue a piece of rubber on top of the cross piece the entire length. That would avoid having to remove the lower gap cover.
 
Bill I made the jacks for Bob and the ends that screw into the tie down threads. I made these for my airplane and they work great. I have used
Them for 2 years.
Geoff
 
Somebody oughta...

"Somebody" oughta make all the parts to the jacks using Bob/Geoff's design - except for the jacks that we can all buy at HF. That would cut way down on the shipping costs and there might be a market for such a package. Buy the package, drop in the jack from HF.
 
douglassmt said:
"Somebody" oughta make all the parts to the jacks using Bob/Geoff's design - except for the jacks that we can all buy at HF. That would cut way down on the shipping costs and there might be a market for such a package. Buy the package, drop in the jack from HF.
Click to expand...

First off, I need to give Geoff credit. It's his design. I just supplied the jacks. Geoff and I have had several conversations on the subject. The opportunity is that shipping will probably run more than the product costs, which makes them harder to sell on the net. BTW, the jack isn't dropped in, it's welded to the stand. At least the ones that Geoff and I have are that way.

My recommendation would be to take a photo to your local welder along with the jack and have them fabricate them locally. It's not rocket science. I think it would be less expensive.

What may be beneificial for Geoff or somebody to produce the device to screw into wings to prevent the jacks from slipping. I don't know if Geoff is willing, but I really like the units he made for me. I don't have my photos at the office or I would have included it in this post.

bob
 
Phil said:
The tail is tied down to a concrete anchor in the floor. My plane has been in the air for 3 months. I need to get motivated to get those wheel pants done. :mad::mad::mad:
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I know the feeling. :eek: My daughter and I spent three hours working on the one wheel pant last night and you can't tell we actually accomplished anything.
 
I'd be interested in how Geoff built the connection between jack and wing. He seems to know what he's doing - mostly :)
 
Center Section

I would definitely not use the tie down on the wing as a jack point.
A rubber padded 2x6 across the bottom, right under the spar carry through and 2 jacks is all you need, just like Greg Hales but not extending out under the wing attach points. The fuselage skin is attached to the flanges and more than strong enough to support the weight of the plane. A set of sturdy jacks, like those rleffler uses, will go a long way to keep the plane from moving around.
To change tires you really only need to raise one side at the time about an inch
and with the nose wheel as well as the remaining wheel chocked, the airplane has nowhere to go.
That's the way I do it and it works for me.
 
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RV10 jack points

I have always used the tie down holes for jack points on my RV's. I noticed some think it's a bad idea on the 10? Any reason we should avoid it?
 
GaryK said:
I have always used the tie down holes for jack points on my RV's. I noticed some think it's a bad idea on the 10? Any reason we should avoid it?
Click to expand...

I did try this and was very uneasy with the stability of the plane. Even though I lifted just to get a tire off the ground it was too shaky. I ended up using a 3' 6x6 and rubber pad on top of my floor jack underneath the main spar. Very stable.
 
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