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Brake pads compared - Matco, Rapco, APS

digidocs

Well Known Member
I recently bought three sets of brake pads from Matco, Rapco, and APS to get a better idea of how they compare to each other. I was halfway expecting that they would be virtually identical, but they are actually quite a bit different.

The pads below are organic compound "66-105" or "66-1050" as used on Matco RV-10 brakes.

Here are the contenders:
Rapco RA66-105 - $6.85/ea (rivets included)
Matco WHLM66-105 - $10.48/ea (no rivets)
APS APS66-10500 - $7.50/ea (no rivets)
I didn't include Cleveland because they were $15.25/ea!

Make sure to click on the image below to get a up close view.

Impressions from looking at them in person:
Rapco --- Looks "low cost", pad surface is rough and the pad itself appears "granular". Has the largest metal flakes embedded in the material.

Matco --- Pad material has a finer texture than the Rapco, but not as fine as the APS. Similar/slightly fewer flakes than Rapco. "Molding" of overall pad is a little cleaner than Rapco. I've seen some minor cracking occur in Matco pads before the pads are worn out.

APS --- Finest grain pad material of the lot with no visible metal flakes. The outside of the pad also has the most "precise" finish of the bunch. I'm curious to know if anyone has tried these.

Thoughts, comments, war stories welcomed...
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I saw in service cracking with the Matco pads (experience is one install only). I normally use Rapco and have also used Clevland, both with no issues.
 
"Rivets" indicates whether rivets were included in the pad package or not. The Matco pads have been installed with "not included" rivets. The other pads are sitting next to it for comparison.
 
So, the pads aren't bonded to the steel and you need rivets which you may have to buy separately (except Rapco) and install yourself......
 
Used Marco and rapco pads. When I did the thicker disk upgrade I switched to rapco. They are holding up well but I’m sure that has something to do with the thicker disks also.

The rivets included with the rapco were all the shorter ones. Needed a few of the longer ones to install on my match backing plates.
 
Matco. I change em every annual. I’m not into to trying to save $0.10 or even $10 on inexpensive parts.
 
I've used Rapco since they started producing them. 23 Different planes, 8000 hours, no issues.

If you are into saving more money; buy them by the dozen.
 
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RAPCO has worked well for me for 15 years. Rivets are included. I usually buy a pack of 8 pads which saves $$$ and I always have some on hand. Typically I’ll replace pads every two years, but I’m pretty easy on the brakes. YMMV.

Chris
 
RAPCO has worked well for me over 23-years. I typically buy the kit that comes with the rivets. Could not tell the difference between the RAPCO and Cleveland other than the price.
 
+1 for the Rapco. I’ve used them all and have never noticed a difference in wear or stopping performance.
 
Stupid Question

My plane will be the same weight as a Toyota Corolla. The Toyota pads are one piece with no riveting needed; they are cheap. Why cant we build a caliber that accepts the Toyota pads? Why do we have to rivet pads on our aircraft? Talk about old school.
 
Rapco

I use Rapco and they last a long time probably because I don't use a lot of brakes. I have my idle set low, RVs taxi well with just prop wash over the rudder, and I roll out on landing to keep the nose gear in the air until turning off the runway.
 
My plane will be the same weight as a Toyota Corolla. The Toyota pads are one piece with no riveting needed; they are cheap. Why cant we build a caliber that accepts the Toyota pads? Why do we have to rivet pads on our aircraft? Talk about old school.

According to the internet, a Toyota Corolla weighs between 2,530 and 2,965 pounds. That is two to three times the weight of the typical RV-9(A).

Back in the 60's, the late John Thorpe said: "Build it as light as possible and only as strong as necessary."

Our aircraft do NOT need the stopping power of a Toyota Corolla. The added weight is the same as the amount of payload or fuel that we will need to leave behind on the ground.

Look up the cost of the "plate" our aircraft brakes are riveted on. IF the brakes were 'bonded' instead of riveted, we would be buying an expensive plate every time we need new brakes.

The cost of engineering a new caliper and the tooling to make it would be more than aircraft owners would be willing to pay.
 
My plane will be the same weight as a Toyota Corolla. The Toyota pads are one piece with no riveting needed; they are cheap. Why cant we build a caliber that accepts the Toyota pads? Why do we have to rivet pads on our aircraft? Talk about old school.

Have you gutted out your Toyota? maybe no interior, no doors and take out the AC system, maybe power steering :D then maybe you will be able to compare it to what your airplanes weights....:p:p
 
I was hoping this thread would give me definitively objective guidance on effectiveness and durability of the various brake pads out there. I am definitely NOT impressed with the brake pads on my -9A that were installed about 20 flight-hours ago (not sure what they are). Looking for options. I’m more interested in effectiveness than longevity.


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I was hoping this thread would give me definitively objective guidance on effectiveness and durability of the various brake pads out there. I am definitely NOT impressed with the brake pads on my -9A that were installed about 20 flight-hours ago (not sure what they are). Looking for options. I’m more interested in effectiveness than longevity.


...

Did you properly ‘condition’ the pads? Pads as they come out of the box won’t work well and they’ll wear fast.
 
I was hoping this thread would give me definitively objective guidance on effectiveness and durability of the various brake pads out there. I am definitely NOT impressed with the brake pads on my -9A that were installed about 20 flight-hours ago (not sure what they are). Looking for options. I’m more interested in effectiveness than longevity.


...

Then you should consider upgrading your rotor to the thicker ones. I did that last year and the hard braking performance improved, less fade. It is looking like the pads are lasting longer but I switched to Rapco pads at the same time so it may be a combination of the two.
 
Did you properly ‘condition’ the pads? Pads as they come out of the box won’t work well and they’ll wear fast.

I've owned the airplane a iittle over 8 weeks. The last brake job was at annual, about 5 flight hours before I bought it.
 
Minor thread drift, but on the subject of riveting pads--

Buy the high quality Rapco brake riveting tool. Do not waste time, money, frustration on the cheaper ATS tool. Read the customer reviews on the Aircraft Spruce site under both products. Some of those comments are mine. Talk about 'you get what you pay for"!

Back to pads - I have used Cleveland and Rapco. I tend to firmly brake on most landings as if they were short-field landings. Good practice. I still get something like 200 hrs out of a set of pads.

On "conditioning". The conditioning instructions are overkill, I believe. I think it gets the brakes hotter than they should. I think I remember someone on VAF getting a brake fire from doing the conditioning runs.
After a pad change, on the first taxi out to the run-up area, I do several firm brake-to-a-stop from taxi speed. By the time I get to the run-up area the brakes feel normal. On the first landing after changing pads, I make a mental note not to expect full braking performance, but I seem to get it anyway.
 
Minor thread drift, but on the subject of riveting pads--

Buy the high quality Rapco brake riveting tool. Do not waste time, money, frustration on the cheaper ATS tool. Read the customer reviews on the Aircraft Spruce site under both products. Some of those comments are mine. Talk about 'you get what you pay for"!

Back to pads - I have used Cleveland and Rapco. I tend to firmly brake on most landings as if they were short-field landings. Good practice. I still get something like 200 hrs out of a set of pads.

On "conditioning". The conditioning instructions are overkill, I believe. I think it gets the brakes hotter than they should. I think I remember someone on VAF getting a brake fire from doing the conditioning runs.
After a pad change, on the first taxi out to the run-up area, I do several firm brake-to-a-stop from taxi speed. By the time I get to the run-up area the brakes feel normal. On the first landing after changing pads, I make a mental note not to expect full braking performance, but I seem to get it anyway.

I have seen the result of an RV-8 brake fire from brake conditioning. Lucky the builders son was at the hangar and got the fire out before it reached the full fuel tank. Wheel pant needed replaced and brake rebuilt again.

After 23-years, I condition my brake pads same as posted here. Typically using hard braking every few landings keep the brakes working well.
 
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