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AD 96-09-10 Oil Impeller Gears

FlyinTiger

Well Known Member
After a thorough prebuy examination on an RV with an IO-360-A1D with the help of an A&P I learned the following:

1. Take the serial number on the engine data plate and call Lycoming to get the manufactured date

2. Use the two week subscription paid for by an A&P to search for all applicable Airworthiness Directives (AD) by serial number and manufacture date.

3. Just because an engine was installed "new" doesn't mean it wasn't kept preserved for years, many years. The engine in my -7 was manufactured in 1983, stored pickled until 2003, then installed "new" in the plane I now own.

4. ADs may apply to an engine any time after they were manufactured. It doesn't matter when they were put into service. Given that it is much easier to perform work on an engine when it is out of the aircraft without accessories and exhaust mounted, is another great reason to check for ADs before installation. Additionally, the ADs should have been checked before an Airworthiness Certificate was issued for the aircraft, but don't assume the check was completed. It wasn't on this one.

5. Magneto inspection every 500 hours. If its not in the logbook it didn't happen. Bendix Magnetos are indefinitely serviceable. To make sure they are reliable and perform to a safe level, especially if it's a Dual Magneto, an IRAN is absolutely a good idea every 500 hours, though not "required."

6. Spark plugs. We clean, gap and rotate them at least once a year during the condition inspection. If there's corrosion on the exterior of the plugs or the center electrode is very worn (oval) it may be a good idea to replace the plugs. Also, if there's no indication they've been replaced then it might be time to bite the bullet.

7. Fluid hoses. The non-teflon hoses are good for about 8 years, then they must be replaced. Mine were 16 years old and performing admirably. They were all very stiff but I had no leaks. I understood these hoses needed to be replaced during the prebuy examination and the aircraft purchase price reflected that requirement.

What I found was that the oil impeller gears, as indicated by serial number and date of manufacture, needed to be replaced. Lycoming determined they needed to be replaced and it is not optional, even on an experimental aircraft.

The plane I chose to buy had been flying for 16 years with the original gears that were installed at the Lycoming factory in 1983 without incident. Ooops. Those 534 hours are in the past... Moving forward I made it right so it is truely airworthy and in a "safe condition for flight." FAR Part 43, Appendix D describes the scope and detail of the yearly condition inspection, I have no choice going forward.
 

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The process...

I post this because I learned a few things through finding an AD that had been overlooked and digging into the engine with supervision to discover more about my hobby was enjoyable. Maybe someone here can glean something useful.:)

Working with an A&P I trust allowed me to dig in and get started while following his guidance on where to get parts and what all needed to be done to be compliant and get my engine back in the air safely.

Changing the oil impeller gears will require pulling the accessory case, which requires removing the dual magneto and the oil sump. Pulling the sump requires removing the intake pipes, exhaust, throttle and mixture linkages.

I obtained a copy of the Lycoming O-360 Overhaul manual online. I also found Lycoming Service Bulletin 524 for completing this process that includes recommendations. Another helpful publication was the O-360 Parts Catalog.

The A&P I was working with recommended an aircraft engine shop where I could buy the parts fairly close by and at prices below the more popular mail in companies. Armed with the knowledge of the engine shop and my parts catalog and overhaul manual I was able to make a list of everything I thought I needed.

All new lock washers of various sizes, flat washers, exhaust flange gaskets, intake flange and ring gaskets, fuel pump, oil sump and accessory gaskets, the impeller gear set, ordered from the engine shop.
 
...continued

I read the SB 524 a couple times and went over the removal and installation steps in the overhaul manual a couple times to make sure I understood. I got approval to proceed from the supervising A&P and set aside some time.

I pulled the cowling, drained the oil and removed the oil filter to get started. While the cold oil was dribbling out of the sump I took a lot of pictures to document the position of everything attached to the engine so I could put it back like it came off. After all, the engine had been running wonderfully.

I systematically pulled the heater tubing, linkages, exhaust, labeled and removed the intake tubes and plug wires. I timed the engine to TDC and then pulled the dual magneto and harness.

Next was to pull the oil sump. I used a sharpened screwdriver to tap between the mating surfaces where the gasket was holding tight. I left two nuts loosely on the studs sticking up through the engine case to prevent it from falling when it broke free. A few taps of the sharp screwdriver at various places around the sump allowed it to come loose. I lowered it down on a bucket and took a picture of the inside. I was curious what 16 years of use looked like. It was fairly clean with only minimal carbon deposits of the aft edge, being a tail dragger it made sense they sat back there.
 

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...again, again

Next was liberating the accessory case from the back of the engine. I took pictures of how the fuel pump was safety wired and looked through the magneto vacancy to see if the plunger was not depressing the fuel pump. Having it unloaded makes it easy to remove without damaging anything.

I clipped the safety wire, disconnected the fuel lines and removed the fuel pump, then put the engine back at #1 TDC. Next was removing all the bolts and nuts from the accessory case. There's a couple that are well hidden, but the parts manual pointed to all their locations in an illustration so I could look for them. Finally I went after the sharpened screw driver and tapped away at various places until it came loose, resting on two bolt I had left in to catch it.

I pulled it out from behind the engine case and took a picture.
 

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Cleaning...

I opted to simply clean out the oil sump and not to bead blast it. There was relatively few deposits and I didn't want to introduce abrasives to the inside of the engine if I didn't have to. Non destructive cleaning continued by cleaning off the old gasket, wiping out the oil sump and confirming there was no more carbon or sediment to remove.

The accessory case required no real cleaning other than removing the old gasket material. I then cut the safety wire on the oil pump housing and took a look at the old aluminum and iron gears. They looked like new so I set them aside to prevent any mix up. The new gears were covered liberally in oil and installed. I torqued the oil pump housing bolts and added the safety wire back on just like my picture showed.

I cleaned the engine case of old gasket material where the accessory case and oil sump would go back on.
 

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Dual Magneto

At the recommendation of the A&P I was working with I sent the Bendix Dual Magneto to Kelly Aerospace in Alabama for evaluation and inspection. There had been no log book entry for an inspection at the 500 hour mark and while not mandatory, was a good idea.

Kelly Aerospace techs found both coils cracked, a worn bushing, needed a new block and impulse cam. The case even was found to be faulty. I elected to have a new harness made to update the plug wires to address the fraying that had happened on the old ones.

I received the Dual Magneto back just in time for reassembly. Kelly Aerospace is super busy so I was happy they were able to finish the work in a week's time.
 

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All together now

The reassembly process is outlined in the overhaul manual. A dab of gasket goo is required in three places to prevent leaks where there is a seam in the cases.

I hung the accessory case gasket on the two pins and carefully mated the accessory case back into place. Each part aligned and seated in order. Gear teeth needed slight encouragement to go together with some wiggling of the assembly. I had put some oil on all the gears and fuel pump lobe to pre-lube it all.

A very light tap with a block of wood and a hammer at different places on the accessory case encouraged everything to mate up evenly as shafts and gears seated. I then installed the accessory case bolts with new lock washers and torqued them to spec. I removed the excess gasket tabs that stick down below the accessory case.

Next the oil sump needed to go on. The gasket fit nicely over a couple of bolt holes on the sump. It went back on and I used a couple nuts to hold it steady while I installed the rest of the bolts and nuts complete with new lock washers.
 
Intake and exhaust, plugs and magneto with harness

It was nice having all the correct gaskets and lock washers. The help of the engine shop was essential in confirming I had the correct part numbers and quantity from the parts catalog so I could complete the reassembly process in one day.

I installed the intake O-ring seals with a little oil to make sure they would slide in and seal well. The intake flange gaskets went on and the intake torqued to the value found in the overhaul manual. Next was the exhaust flange gaskets and exhaust, new flat washers, lock washers and nuts. I torqued the exhaust nuts as well. To get into the tight areas and fully on the nuts I ended up using an extension and 1/4" drive socket to take advantage of the thinner wall.

Throttle and mixture linkages were installed with a new cotter pin and lubed with TriFlow.

The old plugs came out and new went in with the exception of the #1 top plug, for timing later, using copper based anti-seize and the copper washer that comes with the plug. I learned the plugs cannot be returned to the retailer once the sealed package is open, but before that if you discover the wrong plugs were ordered, they can be exchanged.

With the fuel pump lobe and plunger in the highest position I was able to install the fuel pump with the actuator arm aligned, Loctite 542 on the bolt threads as directed in the overhaul manual and safety wired to match the picture I took before disassembly.

I re-confirmed the engine was timed for the #1 cylinder to be at TDC, then clocked it to the 20* mark on the starter ring gear as indicated on the engine data plate. With the red mark on the gear of the dual magneto showing in the side sighting window, the supervising A&P and I installed the mag to the engine. The newer magneto clamps with broader contact area were installed hand tight and the gap behind them verified to assure clamping action as described in the Lycoming Service Instruction 1508C - Dual Magneto Attachment. I used a magneto timing device to confirm the points were opening at the right moment and it was checked by the A&P.
 

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TSFlightlines and Plug Wires Secured

When selecting fluid hoses to be installed on my engine during assembly I searched for who could make them for me at a reasonable cost. It turns out that right down the road in Richland, SC there was a shop that made Teflon lined hoses for experimental aircraft and they are all firesleeved and custom length, with ends to match what I already had on my engine.

When pulling the dual magneto to send it out for inspection I also took pictures first, then pulled the hoses to be replaced since they were about 8 years overdue.

I received high quality, firesleeved, banded and custom length Teflon-lined hoses with nicer ends than I had on my original hoses. They installed nicely and look great.

One thing I chose to do was bite the bullet and install Adel clamps for all hoses and as many wires as possible. Putting many fewer zip ties under the cowl will ensure my motor mount stays in tact and the heat doesn't cause them to fail. I tried GripTies in some places in the past due to their superior rubber grip, but they just can't take the heat of the engine compartment and break down fairly quickly. Side note, an awl and slim jaw vise grips can both be purchased at HF for less than $5 for installing those Adel clamps. I searched VAF for recommended Adel clamp sizes and ordered them, plus a couple extra, along with AN bolts and metal lock washers that are approved for high heat environments. No nylon lock washers under the cowl if I can help it.

I trimmed all of my zipties used for organizing spark plug wires before buttoning up the project, I promise. These were the bag of zip ties that came from Kelly Aerospace for keeping those red wires all neatly lined up. I used the white lined clamps provided to hold the wires in lots of places while I employed a few more Adel clamps from my stash to hold them in place from the other side.
 

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Oil pressure, run up check good, any leaks?

When testing everything for leaks it is important to look at the subtle things. I had missed tightening a fuel supply hose to the correct torque since it was hard to reach and I didn't have the correct wrench at the time. A torque wrench wasn't going to fit either.

During the priming process when my fuel boost pump was pressurizing the fuel system it was obvious there was fuel going somewhere it wasn't supposed to be. A strong fuel smell was evident in the cockpit and fuel was dripping from the firewall area where my boost pump in mounted.

Since the A&P and I were focused on getting good oil pressure, filling the oil lines and cooler by spinning the engine to prime everything before it started we did not notice this fuel leaking at first. My wife, standing nearby and observing, asked about the apparent fuel leak. She was back 20 feet or so and could see the dripping that we were too close to notice. Sure enough, it was leaking and that fuel line got tightened up correctly. The rest of the lines got checked, and we went ahead and applied torque seal to all the fasteners and lines after we checked them again. This will make my job of monitoring their position as I run the plane for the next few hours and keep checking things over more carefully than I normally do by pulling the top cowl and shining a flashlight down into the engine compartment to look at everything every couple of hours.

I never discount the input of a bystander or even someone waving as I taxi by them...they can often see something I may have missed (plug, leak, low tire, etc that I somehow missed on my walk around).

Meanwhile, the oil pressure came up sufficiently while we turned the engine over with the fuel mixture in cutoff, so we went ahead and started the engine. To make sure the oil pump was primed easily we put a full 8 quarts of oil in the engine. It normally runs at 6 quarts without sending any out of the crankcase breather tube. It worked. Only a few seconds after starting the engine I had good oil pressure indications. I kept it at 900-1000 rpm for a couple of minutes while I leaned aggressively to keep the plugs clean until the engine warmed up some. I shut it down to avoid extended ground running with the cowl off to let the internals heat soak for about 15 minutes, then started it again.

I was convinced the oil cooler and oil filter were filling since they were warm to the touch when I shut down after running for about 5 minutes this time with a good oil pressure indication and increasing oil temperature to 100*F. I cycled the propeller at 1200 RPM to ensure oil was getting to as many places as possible, then shut everything down to look it over again. We tightened a loose fuel line and re-checked all fasteners and hoses while applying yellow torque seal.

The next start I confirmed all indications were normal and performed a run up check at 1800 RPM as directed by the Lycoming I/O-360 Operations Manual. I observed a normal mag drop and good propeller cycling with appropriate indications. Time to check it over again, then cowl up for a maintenance test flight.
 

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Post MX Test Flights

The post maintenance test flight can be a tense situation. It seems like after a major amount of work on the FWF it is time to treat this flight with extra care. I always have a plan for engine loss on takeoff with various "gates" meet as I transition through the different options.

Before I stopped flying and took the plane down for maintenance I took the time to run through all the scenarios with simulated conditions so I would be mentally prepared to handle them should they become reality. If you can find one, I recommend getting an experienced CFI in your RV with you and practice simulated engine out procedures up at a safe altitude at first, then down on a sizable runway with plenty of room for experimentation.

I checked things over one more time, installed the cowl then did a full preflight check as if I'd just shown up to fly that day. Once everything was confirmed normal with plenty of fuel for a 30 minute flight above the traffic pattern I climbed in, started up, got a thumbs up from the observers then taxi'd out for a run up check.

After a successful run up check I did a normal takeoff. In the 200 hp RV-7 it goes like this...power is going in smoothly, engine instruments are in the green, the engine hits 2700 RPM as airspeed is rapidly increasing, and I'm airborne. With all normal indications I climbed at Vx to 1000 feet AGL and then transitioned to Vy. Plenty of runway to use in case I needed to land right away in either direction.

I orbited at 2000 feet AGL for 20 minutes, then flew a pattern and landed for a total of 30 minutes start up to shut down. We pulled the top cowling and looked over everything with a flashlight and confirmed nothing had moved that wasn't supposed to. A couple days later I felt the plane was solid, so I took a conservative route over airports along the way on a 3.7 hour round trip cross country to see the Blue Ridge Mountains and have some lunch with friends (SC45 to KMYV and back to SC45). Cruising high made my glide radius quite comfortable in case there was a hiccup.

That hole is for the GNX375 WAAS GPS and Transponder that I'm saving up the time and money to install along with a second G5, GMU-11 Magnetometer, OAT and all the stuff behind the scenes to make it work well. No transponder at the minute, so look out the window on the East Coast!
 

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Aluminum & Steel Oil pump impellers

I’m curious as to what Lycoming told you in regards to changing your aluminum oil pump impellers ?

“What I found was that the oil impeller gears, as indicated by serial number and date of manufacture, needed to be replaced. Lycoming determined they needed to be replaced and it is not optional, even on an experimental aircraft.”

In Lycoming’s Mandatory Service Bulletin 524 it states:

“II. Aluminum Oil Pump Impellers. At next recommended overhaul not to exceed 2000 hours (2400 hours for O-235 series engines with extended TBO) of operation for engines which have steel aluminum impellers installed or have complied with revisions to Service Bulletin No. 455, or No. 456.”

I’m wondering if Lycoming has changed their position on the aluminum impellers as it clearly states their good for 2000 hrs ?
The only thing that comes to mind is Lycoming’s calendar time TBO of a 12 year interval between overhauls which to the best of my knowledge is not mandatory when applied to the EAB world.

*The AD 96-09-10 does call out the aluminum impellers which was a revision from the previous AD on the sintered iron impellers so it seems it would be mandatory if the OP was keeping his engine in the certified category.
 
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Mandatory

Only the FAA can impose a mandatory maintenance procedure, usually through an AD. Lycoming mandatory SBs are not mandatory for most of us, EAB or certificated.
An AD is only mandatory for certificated aircraft/appliances. If you choose to not comply with an AD for your engine (appliance) then it no longer meets it's type cert and must then be considered an experimental eng.

Think about the implications this has pertaining to required inspections done and signed by an AP/IA if you have been signing them as repairman/owner.

All of this generally only becomes a problem if you subsequently sell your motor/appliance as a certificated unit.
 
Certificates Engines in EAB

Dewy,
Are the calendar time TBO’s mandatory for certified engines flying under part 91 ? I would guess they are not.
 
Lycoming

If Lycoming were capable of embarrassment they would hang their heads in shame regarding the oil pumps. When I rebuilt my first Lycoming in 1975 the oil pump issues had been around for years. It is quite amazing that with the technology available today Lycoming just can't seem to get it right.
There are many Lycomings flying on EAB's that are in non compliance with AD's, In many but not all cases not a good idea. however to the letter of the law not illegal. For those dealing with a DAR who doesn't agree with this, remove the Lycoming data plate and call it a 0 360xx in the logbook.
 
Good write up...........

BUT, you don't need to remove the the sump to remove the accessory case.
 
Called Lycoming before wrenching

I’m curious as to what Lycoming told you in regards to changing your aluminum oil pump impellers ?

“What I found was that the oil impeller gears, as indicated by serial number and date of manufacture, needed to be replaced. Lycoming determined they needed to be replaced and it is not optional, even on an experimental aircraft.”

In Lycoming’s Mandatory Service Bulletin 524 it states:

“II. Aluminum Oil Pump Impellers. At next recommended overhaul not to exceed 2000 hours (2400 hours for O-235 series engines with extended TBO) of operation for engines which have steel aluminum impellers installed or have complied with revisions to Service Bulletin No. 455, or No. 456.”

I’m wondering if Lycoming has changed their position on the aluminum impellers as it clearly states their good for 2000 hrs ?
The only thing that comes to mind is Lycoming’s calendar time TBO of a 12 year interval between overhauls which to the best of my knowledge is not mandatory when applied to the EAB world.

*The AD 96-09-10 does call out the aluminum impellers which was a revision from the previous AD on the sintered iron impellers so it seems it would be mandatory if the OP was keeping his engine in the certified category.

I called Lycoming and talked with a tech rep. He pointed out the AD cited TBO or 5 years after the AD was issued.

“ (c) For all other affected engines, replace any aluminum oil pump impeller and shaft assembly with a hardened steel impeller and shaft assembly in accordance with Avco Lycoming Textron SB No. 455D, dated January 2, 1987, or Textron Lycoming SB No. 456F, dated February 8, 1993, or Textron Lycoming SB No. 524, dated September 1, 1995, as applicable, as follows:

(1) Replace at next engine overhaul (not to exceed the hours specified, for the particular engine model, in Textron Lycoming Service Instruction 1009AJ, dated July 1, 1992), at next oil pump removal, or 5 years after the effective date of this AD, whichever occurs first.”

The opinion of my A&P was that Lycoming’s advice should be followed. His signature will go in the logbook stating that the aircraft is in a safe condition for flight. I suppose I could have found someone else to sign it off.

The 16 year old fluid hoses, old worn mag, and a few other things were signals that it was a good idea to do a FWF reset. I fly my kids, my wife flies the plane too.
 
TBO

TBO is only a suggestion, and I think a bad one, for you and I. for a pt. 141 flt school, mandatory.

Read up on Mike Busch and his "on condition maintenance"
 
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What about an Aerosport Power O-360-A1A? I don’t know anywhere near what I should know about this engine. Does it use a Lycoming oil pump, any Lyco parts, or is it all aftermarket/clone?
 
thread creep

Looks like this thread has some creeping going on...LOL.

I'm not even considering overhauling my 37 year old engine with original cylinders because the condition is airworthy. I don't recommend anyone flying for fun overhaul an engine under any circumstances other than on condition, as recommended by Mike Busch.

ADs on Lycoming (certified) engines and Hartzell (certified) propellers, however, MUST be completed to be signed off as airworthy by the A&P (he's also an IA) I work with by choice.

Hint: A person holding the Repairman's Certificate on an airframe has the same responsibility to inspect, search ADs (if applicable) and SBs, and make a judgement.

New ADs have a grace period if there is not an immediate danger of failure. One of the things that are supposed to be determined when a "Repairman's Certificate" is issued is that a person has the necessary skills to determine the airworthiness of an aircraft. Look up ADs and Service Bulletins on certified and "other than certified" parts alike, understand what is written and apply it accordingly.

To review the purpose of this whole thread:

My engine was manufactured in 1983, installed new in 2003, it needed to comply with Lycoming ADs before the DAR signed it off and to be considered "in a condition safe for operation" when inspected according to the "scope and detail" of Part 43 Appendix D at least once a year. As a PIC I make that determination every time before I fly it.
 
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Clones

What about an Aerosport Power O-360-A1A? I don’t know anywhere near what I should know about this engine. Does it use a Lycoming oil pump, any Lyco parts, or is it all aftermarket/clone?

Know the date of manufacture of your engine.

You will likely have a parts list or build list for your engine. You'll know by that list if you have Lycoming or Continental parts in your engine. If I had an Aerosport O-360 I'd be checking ADs at least once a year to see if any might apply by manufacture date to a "similar certified engine." If something pops up it is merely a hint to check on that item and a simple call to the clone manufacturer can clear up any questions, then you, as the repairman or your choice of A&P will determine if any action is required on your experimental engine.

Good judgement and documentation is a great way to stay transparent and retain the most value in a safety conscious hobby. If you sell your plane later the next buyer's A&P may not agree with your decision and decide a different course of action is required on an experimental engine. The experiment continues!

If you have parts made by another manufacturer (like Aerosport) please check their website or call them to see if they have issued any Service Bulletins if an experimental clone.

I use TSFlightlines fluid hoses. They are not certified, but have a "Certificate of Compliance" and meet or exceed standards for aircraft hoses. If they have an issue that needs addressing they will likely issue a Service Bulletin in the same manner that Vans Aircraft issues them with a recommended process for fixing the issue.

Even if the company that made your equipment goes out of business it is essential to have documentation that will help you maintain your aircraft. Its best to get this documentation when initially purchasing the parts. Its also a consideration in a prebuy examination before purchasing a flying aircraft. THIS reason is why I whole heartedly recommend the A&P that's going to help you with the condition inspection every year if you don't possess the repairman's certificate for your airplane be involved in a prebuy if at all possible. Even a digital log book review and a detailed picture examination and phone call to the person doing the in-person prebuy is advisable to reduce heartache later.

In the experimental world of aircraft ownership the ownus is literally ON US.

The difference between certified engine/prop and experimental engine/prop is not whether or not it is considered safe, it is who gets to make that call in the end.
 
Experts? Correct me if I'm wrong...

After significant effort and some expense I do not seek to be "right," but to share my decision process, how I worked with an A&P since I didn't build my aircraft and how in the end I'm happy, my aircraft is well documented and declared "safe" on paper as I run a certified engine and propeller.

I fly and train as if my engine could quit at any time.

Free info, not necessarily worth much...I enjoy reading other's learning experiences when shared here on VAF and decided to contribute more than my donation to keep the website running.

My intention was not to mis-inform anyone, but to share my experience. Maybe it will help someone else consider a safety related maintenance item on their airplane or do some preventative maintenance that they had decided was okay to put off with no real reason why. Pass on by, ask questions, start your own thread outlining your experience so I can read it or send me a PM. :)

I learned some valuable information and knowingly purchased a flying RV-7 with things that had to be addressed when going from builder with repairman's certificate signed off condition inspections to A&P signed off condition inspections. The same thing could happen when switching A&Ps too, by the way.

If there's a DAR, FAA Maintenance Inspector, A&P, EAA Flight Advisor or other knowledgeable person who would like to share where I may be incorrect or where there are other options I'm excited to be learning more.

If you have a correction please share with me a source document or guidance if possible. Opinions are welcome as well and need to be identified as such. The benefit of this great resource here at VAF is that there are so many verified experienced people here that my information can be corrected if it is not right.

Thanks for all who are discussing maintenance topics here and on other threads. I'm looking forward to learning more.
 

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Reasons for oil sump removal

Good write up...........

BUT, you don't need to remove the the sump to remove the accessory case.

Thanks for pointing out the oil sump did not NEED to be removed to pull the accessory case. That is true.

When I discussed the job of replacing the oil pump gears with the supervising A&P he cited the age of the engine (manufactured in 1983) and the fact that it had been in service since 2003 on this RV-7 that it wouldn't be a bad idea to go ahead and pull the sump to accomplish a number of things:

1. Prevent possible future leaks from cutting and replacing only part of the oil sump gasket when installing the accessory case after new oil pump gears are fitted. He knows I'm going to run this engine well past recommended TBO if it's condition allows. :eek:

2. Experience. I'm a curious person and I enjoy working on my plane, so a good look at what is going on inside my engine was of interest to me. It took me two hours to remove the engine components and the sump. A few more hours to remove the accessory case, clean everything, replace the oil pump gears, safety wire the housing and get it all ready to go back together.

3. Sludge. The A&P was concerned about sludge building up inside the engine as he's seen it in other engines he's worked on. Looking at the sump with it off the plane would be a good way to see if there was any cause for concern with sludge build up. None found. Never run on semi-synthetic oil... ;)

4. New gaskets. Having been in service for 17 years without much done to it my engine was going to get treated to new Teflon fluid hoses (9 years overdue) and new spark plugs since the old ones were pretty worn and of unknown age. Why not replace the intake and exhaust gaskets, lock washers and torque everything after it was cleaned?

5. Because...that's what the A&P felt was a good idea. If, after he inspected my work, he thought it was in a safe condition for flight it would be reflected as so in my aircraft log book. If I didn't like what he wanted I would have at least gotten a second opinion. Since I don't have the repairman's certificate for my RV-7 I'm dependent on the judgement of a trained, and in this case, an experienced mechanic who has seen a lot in his 30 years of working on certified and experimental airframes and engines. It is good to know who you are asking to look over your airplane and their credentials.

6. If I chose to sell my RV-7 right now I'm betting that having all Lycoming ADs, Hartzell ADs and Vans Service Bulletins complied with will fetch the highest price and quickest selling time. Having all of these documented and well presented in my aircraft servicing binder makes it easy to share that with a potential buyer.

Since my wife and I both fly the RV-7 its important to communicate with each other what is going on with the airplane, like a flying club or partnership. We use a flight-school-style Dispatch Binder to do that. It is check ride ready! LOL

Here's a screenshot of the original pdf, it has been updated for this year's Inspections and many entries are in the flight log now, discrepancies logged and cleared, SBs documented, ADs updated. Maybe you all use a similar thing to communicate when multiple pilots are flying one aircraft...
 

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AD

Thanks again for this write up. Even though I had thoroughly researched my engine before I bought the plane, your thread nudged me to go back and look again. I too recently put all engine and airframe ADs/SBs on an excel spreadsheet and they are now stapled in the back of the respective logs. I too, have gone completely through my recently acquired RV-8 and replaced stuff (including all fluid lines) that others had found acceptable but I didn't. Extra unwarranted expense? Maybe but I sure feel good about it when my son and grandkids wave at me as they taxi out. I am a pilot and an A&P but more importantly, in my past life, I was responsible for the safe and efficient operation of a fleet of aircraft that were literally flying around the world each month. Before that, I flew in the Air Force. I learned very quickly that the outstanding maintenance guys in both of these operations were constantly sniffing out POTENTIAL problems before they became real ones. They were proactive versus reactive. As a result, I have had over 45 years of very enjoyable but unexciting flying. You are absolutely doing the right thing. In this business, just doing the bare minimum and hoping for the best will, at some point, result in unwanted excitement at best.

BTW, I'm not far from you. Perhaps, you and I can meet somewhere for lunch sometime.
 

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Proactive mx...

Thanks again for this write up. Even though I had thoroughly researched my engine before I bought the plane, your thread nudged me to go back and look again....You are absolutely doing the right thing. In this business, just doing the bare minimum and hoping for the best will, at some point, result in unwanted excitement at best.

BTW, I'm not far from you. Perhaps, you and I can meet somewhere for lunch sometime.


We will definitely need to get together and share experiences. I'm in between transponders at the moment as I get ready to update for ADS-B out and IFR, so I may have to meet you somewhere with accommodating airspace.

I regularly fly my 16, 14 and 11 year old kids. My wife and I also fly together. Safety is important to me. I don't want to introduce unnecessary opportunities for error or maintenance related wear and tear on my aircraft, but a FWF reset was definitely in my plan when I bought this flying airplane. Doing all this FWF heavy lifting now will give me a peace of mind when cruising in the clouds when I'm on an IFR flight plan after the panel is finished. Flushing out any issues while VFR is my plan for the next few months.

Thank you for your service 74-07.
 
EAA and AD Compliance

An article from some years ago caught my attention in another thread discussing a more costly crankshaft issue.

http://starduster.aircraftspruce.com/wwwboard/messages/25960.html

Food for thought anyway...my take on EAA's position is that they are talking out of both sides of their mouth stating that its a "good idea" but that it isn't legally required.

In the end, if you're like me and you bought your RV flying, the A&P putting a signature in your log book declaring the aircraft in a "safe condition" to fly will make that determination for you.

Fly safely folks...and practice those simulated engine out scenarios, brief every takeoff, even if it is only to yourself.
 
... In the 200 hp RV-7 it goes like this...power is going in smoothly, engine instruments are in the green, the engine hits 2700 RPM as airspeed is rapidly increasing, and I'm airborne. ...

Thanks for your write-up. Very useful for future readers who find themselves in similar situations.

I won't comment on the AD compliance issue...Be good for a DAR (Mel?) to clarify, but perhaps in a separate thread.

I absolutely LOVE your description of the take-off in a 2-seat RV with a constant speed prop and an angle-valve 360. Folks, this process happens at just about exactly the pace that you can read FlyinTiger's description. I have also done take-offs in an RV-6 with an O-320 and fixed pitch prop, and after about 5 seconds, I started looking around for what might be wrong. "Why aren't I flying yet?". Certainly advantages to that approach to the light, economical RV. But you have not lived until you have done a take-off with 200Hp and a C/S prop. Of course, the Rocket guys would say the same thing to me ;) and I have experienced that too - about the same TO with 2 people that I experience while solo.

Its all good!
 
i have to disagree with you a few points, you chose to install a certified engine and prop, once they went on a EAB they are no longer certified as an EAB is not required to be maintained IAW FAR43. changing an accessory to a non PMA or STC'ed part makes it non comforming. although engine hoses are not part of the type certificate of the engine, using a line from TS on a certificated engine could be an issue. even though TS is my go to for experimental lines, because he does not have PMA, or TSO paperwork I do not use his lines on a certificated airplane.

you may choose to have all maintenance done by an A&P, but that does not keep it a certified engine. what does that mean? not much for an EAB, it just means that to take that engine off the EAB and install it in a certificated aircraft that engine or prop would need a IA to do, and document, a type certificate conformity inspection on the part before installing it on the certificated aircraft.

Even FAA guidance goes both ways on the issue of AD compliance, there are some AD's the just make sense to do even if they do not apply to EAB, the oil pump one I personally have done on my engine.

I give a big thumbs up for your attention to detail, and dedication to making your aircraft the safest It can be and not cutting any corners on it.
 
Find an A&P, learn, enjoy

...although engine hoses are not part of the type certificate of the engine, using a line from TS on a certificated engine could be an issue. even though TS is my go to for experimental lines, because he does not have PMA, or TSO paperwork I do not use his lines on a certificated airplane.

you may choose to have all maintenance done by an A&P, but that does not keep it a certified engine. what does that mean? not much for an EAB, it just means that to take that engine off the EAB and install it in a certificated aircraft that engine or prop would need a IA to do, and document, a type certificate conformity inspection on the part before installing it on the certificated aircraft.

Even FAA guidance goes both ways on the issue of AD compliance, there are some AD's the just make sense to do even if they do not apply to EAB, the oil pump one I personally have done on my engine.

I really enjoy the fact that I can do ALL the work on my experimental RV-7. It is only the Condition Inspection once a year that an A&P must determine that it is in a "safe condition" since I didn't build it. For things that I'm uncertain of, like making fluid lines or maintaining my magnetos, I reach out to tried and true service that are proven. When it is time to service my propeller I'll most likely use an experienced and well known prop shop who has years of proven success.

Another person who chooses to have the maintenance ALL done by an A&P on their flying RV (I know a few guys who do just that) delegate to the A&P will choose the materials/equipment used during that maintenance.

Tom at TSFlightlines can provide a letter of conformity to be included with maintenance documentation to show the Teflon lines he sells meet or exceed the standards for aircraft fluid lines. True, they cannot be used on certified aircraft, but that's ok since I don't have one of those. The A&P (who happens to be an IA and has some other credentials too) I work with was satisfied with the certificate of compliance and deemed the fluid lines to be safe.

I could have attempted inspecting and rebuilding the dual magneto myself. In my case, sending it out to the experts at Kelly Aerospace was my best option since I'm not experienced inspecting and maintaining magnetos.

Another factor - I asked Kelly Aerospace about parts for the dual mag and they didn't sell them separately, but would perform the IRAN on my mags.

Bottom line - the experienced and RV (many models of experimental aircraft in fact) knowledgeable A&P only wanted to see a logical and safety focused maintenance plan that wasn't cutting any corners.

The reason I've spent time writing up my experience is that so many experimentals I've seen are suffering from neglect in the maintenance department and would like to encourage owners and pilots to stay engaged with the maintenance of their own aircraft. Simply start by flying more often and changing the oil every 4 months. That will go a long way to making an aircraft more safe, checking under the cowl more often and keeping it ready to fly on a high performance local flight or long cross country cruise.
 
The reason I've spent time writing up my experience is that so many experimentals I've seen are suffering from neglect in the maintenance department and would like to encourage owners and pilots to stay engaged with the maintenance of their own aircraft.

I'm in the process of overhauling three different engines right now. All three had aluminum oil pump impellers. All three came off certified aircraft with logs and had many annuals signed off without this AD done.

Also worth noting, all three oil pumps appeared to be in fair to good condition.
 
I'm in the process of overhauling three different engines right now. All three had aluminum oil pump impellers. All three came off certified aircraft with logs and had many annuals signed off without this AD done.

Also worth noting, all three oil pumps appeared to be in fair to good condition.

My gears were in perfect condition when I pulled them out. Aluminum with 627 hours on them, installed in 1984 at engine manufacture by Lycoming, stored pickled, put into operation "new" in 2003.
 
I'm in the process of overhauling three different engines right now. All three had aluminum oil pump impellers. All three came off certified aircraft with logs and had many annuals signed off without this AD done.

Also worth noting, all three oil pumps appeared to be in fair to good condition.

Hey Bob, Did those engines have a two piece oil pump housing? If so in that case the AD wouldn't apply to those aluminum and steel impellers.
Merry Christmas,
Mahlon
 
Mahlon, have you ever seen a failure of a steel/aluminum combo?
Saw a sintered iron type pump fail once and saw many of those with way excessive wear at the woodruff key. But never saw a failure of the steel and aluminum ones. Never saw excessive wear with them either. Always thought that AD was BS.
Merry Christmas,
Mahlon
 
Hey Bob, Did those engines have a two piece oil pump housing? If so in that case the AD wouldn't apply to those aluminum and steel impellers.
Merry Christmas,
Mahlon

I don't believe this is correct but I'm sure you can prove me wrong. Its my understanding that if the pump has the aluminum impeller it only applies if the PN is 13775. The other aluminum impellers, held in place with a shaft and cotter key, are a different part # and are unaffected. The O-320 I am overhauling right now has a single piece pump housing with this type of shaft/cotter pin.
 
You are correct. Any pump with a cotter pinned idler shaft is exempt from that AD.
Merry Christmas ,
Mahlon
 
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