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Installation of the new style nosegear fork

T

tonyjohnson

Well Known Member
I intend to replace the older style nosegear fork on my 8A project with the new style fork. I am also considering an alternate method of attaching the front gear leg to the mount.

I searched Vans website for the new fork, but could not find it. I assume that the new fork is avaiable for the 8A. Can anyone confirm that, and perhaps know the price?

I also searched the archives here for information about the replacement procedures, but found no specific information. I recall reading something here about the nosegear having to be re drilled for the new fork to fit, because the old style fork had a different mounting location. If anyone has any infomation on that I would appreciate it.

Lastly, I am considering using a "taper pin" to secure the front nosegear to the engine mount, in lieu of the bolt that is called for in the plans. I invite your attention to an article by Jim Ellis, complete with drawings on that topic:

http://www.matronics.com/wiki/index.php/Nose_Gear_Strut

In that article it says that the supplier of the taper pins has a minimum order amount. If any other nosewheel builders/pilots want to combine an order to meet the minimum amount, let me know.

Thanks in advance.
 
From the horses mouth

I talked to vans builder support about this issue a few days ago.
  • The new fork will save you a couple pounds on the nose.
  • You do not have to buy a new gear leg, the old one can be modified.
  • The leg modification consists of shortening the pivot area, threading further up the pivot area, and drilling a new cotter pin hole.
  • Vans knows of a shop that will do it if you send your gear leg in. Personally, I would have a local machine shop do it.
  • It might even be "possible" to do it on the plane.I Don't know. It would require a large cutting die and probably a sawsall to shorten the leg. Better to let a pro do it.
If you go to the web store and open "the list" and search for "fork" you will find the nose gear forks. You probably (confirm with Vans) want the WD-630-1. Lists for $154.00.

You will also have to modify your nose wheel pant as well.

Hope this helps.



tonyjohnson said:
I intend to replace the older style nosegear fork on my 8A project with the new style fork. I am also considering an alternate method of attaching the front gear leg to the mount.

I searched Vans website for the new fork, but could not find it. I assume that the new fork is avaiable for the 8A. Can anyone confirm that, and perhaps know the price?

I also searched the archives here for information about the replacement procedures, but found no specific information. I recall reading something here about the nosegear having to be re drilled for the new fork to fit, because the old style fork had a different mounting location. If anyone has any infomation on that I would appreciate it.

Lastly, I am considering using a "taper pin" to secure the front nosegear to the engine mount, in lieu of the bolt that is called for in the plans. I invite your attention to an article by Jim Ellis, complete with drawings on that topic:

http://www.matronics.com/wiki/index.php/Nose_Gear_Strut

In that article it says that the supplier of the taper pins has a minimum order amount. If any other nosewheel builders/pilots want to combine an order to meet the minimum amount, let me know.

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
 
dunno yet

Toxin,

I don't know yet, I will have to call the company that sells the taper pins and ask.

I do know that the reamer you need will cost about $50. It is a shame that we RV builders have to buy a tool to use once. I plan to use the reamer once, then offer it here for sale at a price less than I paid for it...the guy who buys it can use it once and offer it for sale again at a little less. That way it could be used several times by RV guys who won't have to buy it at full price and put it in their tool bin never to be used again.

I will post more after I have contacted the company that sells the pins. They can't be very expensive....I'm guessing $20 max.
 
Looking at the 6a I was working on today, I can see it's going be a REAL challege trying to make a one size fits all redesign of the A's nosewheels. I could make one that would fit this particular 6A, but what about the next guys?
 
Nose gear taper pins

tonyjohnson said:
I intend to replace the older style nosegear fork on my 8A project with the new style fork. I am also considering an alternate method of attaching the front gear leg to the mount.

I searched Vans website for the new fork, but could not find it. I assume that the new fork is avaiable for the 8A. Can anyone confirm that, and perhaps know the price?

I also searched the archives here for information about the replacement procedures, but found no specific information. I recall reading something here about the nosegear having to be re drilled for the new fork to fit, because the old style fork had a different mounting location. If anyone has any infomation on that I would appreciate it.

Lastly, I am considering using a "taper pin" to secure the front nosegear to the engine mount, in lieu of the bolt that is called for in the plans. I invite your attention to an article by Jim Ellis, complete with drawings on that topic:

http://www.matronics.com/wiki/index.php/Nose_Gear_Strut

In that article it says that the supplier of the taper pins has a minimum order amount. If any other nosewheel builders/pilots want to combine an order to meet the minimum amount, let me know.

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Tony
Have you gotten any prices on those nose gear taper pins yet?
Oldgeezer
RV9A
 
pins

Geezer,

I was fortunate to obtain one from someone who had an extra one so I stopped my search for a source for them. Jim Ellis mentions a possible source in his wiki article on the link in the first post.

Good luck in your search.
 
Nosegear leg shortenting,


I sent mine back to Harmon Lange who is the OEM for Van's on this. You will make a box out of wood to ship it in per his instructions and place the gear leg and a check for $100 in the box. He cuts the leg off at the threads to the new length, re-threads, and places it back into your box and ships it back minus the check. It is very painless and the service is fantastic.

http://www.langair.com/

Best,
 
I bought an adjustable threader and borrowed a long armed threader tool. Took the nose gear leg off and blocked the leg up tight in a big vise using wood blocks. Using lots of cutting oil, going slow, and cleaning the threader frequently I cut an extra inch of threads up the leg (my elbows still hurt). The leg was then cut off 1 inch using an electric metal saw such as the type you can buy at Harbor Freight. I took a couple of cylces to cut the threads tightening the threader slightly on the second pass---but make sure you do not cut too much--you want it to be tight--test the threads with your nut. BTW, I was originally concerned that these threads were rolled vs cut--Tom Green at Vans told me they were simply cut--so I did it myself. The threader cost about $30 and was used once----the carbon steel leg pretty much used it up!! The new fork fit fine and I have around 75 hrs since the conversion.

Cheers,
db
 
db1yg said:
I bought an adjustable threader and borrowed a long armed threader tool. Took the nose gear leg off and blocked the leg up tight in a big vise using wood blocks. Using lots of cutting oil, going slow, and cleaning the threader frequently I cut an extra inch of threads up the leg (my elbows still hurt). The leg was then cut off 1 inch using an electric metal saw such as the type you can buy at Harbor Freight. I took a couple of cylces to cut the threads tightening the threader slightly on the second pass---but make sure you do not cut too much--you want it to be tight--test the threads with your nut. BTW, I was originally concerned that these threads were rolled vs cut--Tom Green at Vans told me they were simply cut--so I did it myself. The threader cost about $30 and was used once----the carbon steel leg pretty much used it up!! The new fork fit fine and I have around 75 hrs since the conversion.

Cheers,
db
Click to expand...

Dave
I'm building the same set up on my 9A as you have. Do you have any performace numbers with the 180hp and Catto prop you can pass on? Are you operating off pavement or grass and what is your takeoff run. I will be operating off a grass strip and went with the O-360 and 3 bladed Catto for max performance.Also are your cooling louvers working out ok?
Thanks
Oldgeezer
RV9A
 
I went with the 0360/Catto combo for similar reasons---We are moving to N. Az and it is not unusual to see very high density altitudes at airports there during the summer. I wanted good t/o performance and was considering the 320 with a cs or a 360 with the Catto. The 360/Catto combo gave me good t/o, low wt (saved about 40 lbs vs the 320/Hartzell), reduced maintenance, and smooth/quiet operation. I tend to run mine conservatively and use about 66-67% power most of the time-my ECi 0360 seems to have a sweet spot there. At 8k' d alt that power setting gives me around 165-168 ktas. The interesting thing about this is that I have flown as high as 12.4 d. alt and wot (probably around 60-62% power) and it still trues 166 kts----the 9 wing really loves it between 8 and 14K'.

I fly off of pavement and although I have never actually measured it, with me alone and full fuel I estimate around 400' t/o roll. I climb out at around 115-120 kts indicated and routinely see 1600-1800 fpm. If I want to pull the nose up to 80-90 kts it will climb at 2200 fpm.

The louvers brought my oil and cht down to a very reasonable level. In normal cruise my chts run 345-370 and my oil temps run between 180-200 degrees with my fw mounted oil cooler (real SW unit). BTW, I saw no measurable change in airspeed when the louvers were installed.

You are going to love your 9!!!!

Cheers,

db
 
Tony,
I can report a problem from the opposite perspective.
Our old noseleg on the 9a was installed with a AN6-3 tapered bolt (1/4" per ft). We want to change to the new noseleg, but now can not get the bolt out. The taper has wedged firmly in.

It of course does not help that the original builder bid not cut a firewall access hole.

The bolt is in a very awkward position, and it had crossed my mind to try and rethread and cut the leg on the aircraft.

Either way, I wish a standard AN5 was in.
 
0-360

db1yg said:
I went with the 0360/Catto combo for similar reasons--- tend ECi 0360 seems to have a sweet spot there.
The louvers brought my oil and cht down to a very reasonable level. In normal cruise my chts run 345-370 and my oil temps run between 180-200 degrees with my fw mounted oil cooler (real SW unit). BTW, I saw no measurable change in airspeed when the louvers were installed.
Cheers,

db
Click to expand...
Dave, I'm wondering what or which Carb are you using on the 0-360 from ECI ? Did you use Alex's louvers mounted in the bottom left and right?
Thanks
 
Bob,

ECi provides the standard MA4-5 carb on their 0360. I believe this is the Marvel carb used on most Lyc or Lyc clone 0360 engines (any of you engine guys please verify). BTW, even though I have a carb I am one of the lucky ones in that it runs smoothly LOP. I normally lean (at 65-68 % power) till my last cylinder to peak (#4) is about 5-10 degree LOP. This also lowers my chts and then the oil temp. I attribute this ability to the flow work ECi has done on their cylinders and the LS PIII ignition system I have on the right side(mag on left).

The louvers were not used as delivered. I did not feel I needed all of the area provided with the stock louvers so I cut them down from 11 openings to 6 per side. They were mounted about 2 inches forward of the fw and just outboard of the cowl scoop radius. I have a pic if you are interested. They were good for a 12-15 degree reduction in oil temp for my fw mounted cooler.

Cheers,

db
 
Which Carb?

db1yg said:
Bob,

ECi provides the standard MA4-5 carb on their 0360. I believe this is the Marvel carb used on most Lyc or Lyc clone 0360 engines (any of you engine guys please verify). BTW, even though I have a carb I am one of the lucky ones in that it runs smoothly LOP. I normally lean (at 65-68 % power) till my last cylinder to peak (#4) is about 5-10 degree LOP. This also lowers my chts and then the oil temp. I attribute this ability to the flow work ECi has done on their cylinders and the LS PIII ignition system I have on the right side(mag on left).
The louvers were not used as delivered. I did not feel I needed all of the area provided with the stock louvers so I cut them down from 11 openings to 6 per side. They were mounted about 2 inches forward of the fw and just outboard of the cowl scoop radius. I have a pic if you are interested. They were good for a 12-15 degree reduction in oil temp for my fw mounted cooler.
Cheers,

db
Click to expand...
Dave,
Thanks for your reply, sounds like you have a great setup!
Van's used to send the 0-360 with the M4-5A 10-3878 carb, now they send a richer carb, 10-4164-1 that is about 10% richer. I have the original and I'm getting ready to convert with a kit to enrichen my fuel flow on TO/climb for better egt/cht cooling. You are so informed about you setup, I was wondering if ECI used the lean or the rich carb with their engine. I am considering (and have on hand) louvers, but want to make sure I have the right fuel flow setup before adding louvers.
I'd like a picture of your louvers, yes please! Thanks
[email protected]
ps...didn't mean to hijack the thread!
 
Cant get the bolt out

Justin,

Thanks for mentioning that issue. It had not occurred to me that it might be wise to put in a firewall access point for the taper pin. Otherwise, you would probably have to remove the engine mount, or at least make it loose enough to access the back of the engine mount.

For those of us who have not made this modificaition it would seem that there are two solutions to what may become a future problem.

1. Put a small hole in the firewall and cover it with a stainless steel plate, for access to the taper pin.

2. Put the taper pin in from the front instead of the rear. Jim Ellis who originated the idea I believe, or at least made us all aware of it, advises putting the pin in from the back. I assume there is a reason for that. I suspect that Jim will read this post and share his knowledge with us.

Is it the length of the bolt that is the problem, or the fact that it is too snug? If it is the firmness of its hold, I would think that a punch and sledgehammer would address that issue. If the bolt head is on the front, I can see that you would not be able to get a hammer to the bolt end. That might be the reason it is recommended that you put the bolt head on the back and the nut on the front.

BTW, does the MG in your name refer to the Morse Garage automobile?

Tony




justinmg said:
Tony,
I can report a problem from the opposite perspective.
Our old noseleg on the 9a was installed with a AN6-3 tapered bolt (1/4" per ft). We want to change to the new noseleg, but now can not get the bolt out. The taper has wedged firmly in.

It of course does not help that the original builder bid not cut a firewall access hole.

The bolt is in a very awkward position, and it had crossed my mind to try and rethread and cut the leg on the aircraft.

Either way, I wish a standard AN5 was in.
Click to expand...
 
The bolt is head up nut down. That is the only way to get it in with no access hole.
Sticking to the plans allows you to get a torque wrench on the nut to get the correct torque value.
I have a tapered bolt in a non tapered hole. I am not quite sure about your method.

Removing the engine mount seems more and more likely.

Sadly the MG are just my middle and last initials.
 
Taper pin

Justin,

Thanks for your reply and the information you provided. In what I will refer to as the "Jim Ellis" method, which is shown in detail on the link in the first post of this thread, it is advised to install the pin and noswheel leg before the engine mount is attached to the aircraft. The pin is inserted from the back with the nut on the front. In this orientation, the pin could be punched out from the front if necessary.

Jim also describes a way to install the pin while the engine mount is attached to the aircraft by attaching a wire through the cotter pin hole in the taper pin and pulling it into the hole. That would indicate that there is room between the engine mount and the firewall for the pin's full length.

The distance between the engine mount and firewall may be model specific. Therefore even if Jim was able to get his pin in while the engine mount was on the airframe, perhaps that is not true with a 9.

Good luck
 
DWG 19, "FIREWALL BULKHEAD", calls out a "nose gear access hole" at location "E" for both the -9 and the -7.

I think the hole I ended up with was either a 9/16" or 5/8" with a metal snap in hole plug. If you don't have this hole, removing the nose gear attach bolt (or taper pin) would be nearly impossible.

In Justin's case the bolt head is on top rather than on the bottom so he may be able to remove it without the access hole. I think Vans calls for the bolt to be inserted from the bottom because if a prop governor is installed there is no clearance for bolt removal from the top. At least that's the case on a -7A I looked at recently.
 
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Bolt Access Hole

My 7A firewall drawing (dwg. 19) calls for a 3/4 in. access hole. The same drawing gives very precise dimensions for the hole location. In reality, the ideal location will vary slightly for every airplane. Every engine mount will be slightly different and every mount will will be positioned a little differently on the firewall. I pre-fitted my mount on the firewall, stuck a long 5/16 in. bolt through the gear mount hole and used its projected centerlline interference with the firewall to carefully locate my access hole. The resulting opening seems to be pretty much perfectly centered, but clearance for installing the bolt from below is still tight at the top and bottom of the hole. Because of the intersection angle involved, the bolt sees an oval shaped hole.
 
tonyjohnson said:
Charlie,

How do you cover that firewall access hole. Is there a stainless steel plug that you can use?
Click to expand...

The SS plug comes in the kit. ACE carries an assortment of plugs in various sizes should you desire a different size.

Jekyll
 
I don't think the plug is included in the basic kit. It seems to be part of the Firewall Forward Kit, or you can buy it specifically (FF 3/4 FIREWALL PL SS FIREWALL PLUG) from Van's for a buck.
 
The plug was included in my FWF kit (RV-9A).

chunt0 said:
I don't think the plug is included in the basic kit. It seems to be part of the Firewall Forward Kit, or you can buy it specifically (FF 3/4 FIREWALL PL SS FIREWALL PLUG) from Van's for a buck.
Click to expand...
 
I mounted my O-360-A1A with 5/8" spacers between the firewall and the engine mount. I am using a 3 blade 18 lb. Catto prop and want to have access to the full 100 lb. baggage weight limit. With the spacers you don't need the firewall hole. The bolt can go through with the head on top, like it should be, with plenty of room to get the nut on. Since I punched the hole before realizing I didn't have to I need to plug the hole like the rest of you.

I should have actual weight and balance numbers in another month. Will share pictures after the W&B.

Steve Eberhart
RV-7A, Lycoming O-360-A1A, Catto 3 blade, GRT EFIS Sport and EIS, House of Kolor Kandy Apple Red
 
Sorry guys. I should have specified which kit but, I don't recall. I got my whole kit and caboodle at one time. I just know the plug is in my "not yet installed'' box-o-parts which is shrinking quickly. Just got several small things remaining like baffles, cowling and canopy. :)

Jekyll
 
tonyjohnson said:
I intend to replace the older style nosegear fork on my 8A project with the new style fork. I am also considering an alternate method of attaching the front gear leg to the mount.

I searched Vans website for the new fork, but could not find it. I assume that the new fork is avaiable for the 8A. Can anyone confirm that, and perhaps know the price?

I also searched the archives here for information about the replacement procedures, but found no specific information. I recall reading something here about the nosegear having to be re drilled for the new fork to fit, because the old style fork had a different mounting location. If anyone has any infomation on that I would appreciate it.

Lastly, I am considering using a "taper pin" to secure the front nosegear to the engine mount, in lieu of the bolt that is called for in the plans. I invite your attention to an article by Jim Ellis, complete with drawings on that topic:

http://www.matronics.com/wiki/index.php/Nose_Gear_Strut

In that article it says that the supplier of the taper pins has a minimum order amount. If any other nosewheel builders/pilots want to combine an order to meet the minimum amount, let me know.

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

Since Tony already has his taper pin, I called Jay-Tex and they do have new surplus taper pins in-stock at $3.30 each along with the other required hardware, washer $1.65, castle nut .27. They do have a minimum order of $75 which could be $25 worth of each item or $75 worth of taper pins. That is about 23 taper pins plus shipping.
If enough builders are interested at cost plus shipping, I could place an order for the hardware. I just don't need 22 additional pins. We might also get a deal on multiple reamers. Let me know if you are interested or if you know of a better source without a minimum order.
Thanks
Oldgeezer
 
New fork thickness (where the leg goes through it)

I need to find out if the one I have is the new or old style to determine if I will change it.
 
Taper Set Purchase

Oldgeezer,

Per my calculations and the costs you received from Jay-Tex, it looks like you can order 14 taper sets (pin + washer + nut) at $5.22 each plus 2 extra washers at $1.65 each for $76.38 plus shipping. Such an order, including shipping, probably costs about $85 total. For 14 sets at $85, that's about $6 per set. Adding a reshipping cost of about $5.00 per set, that adds up to $11 per set. After you receive your order and set aside your set, if you want to sell the remaining 13 sets to the rest of us for $15 each (including $4 of profit per set for your time/effort plus paying for the extra washers plus any additional shipping cost), I'm in for a set at $15 shipped! What do you think?

By the way, if you're not interested in doing this, I'll do it if I get enough responders via this thread (first come; first serve).

Does anyone else want to purchase a taper set from Oldgeezer, or me, at $15 including shipping within the continental U.S.?

Best Regards,

Bill Palmer
Chino Hills, CA
 
Yes...

Bill Palmer said:
Oldgeezer,
......
By the way, if you're not interested in doing this, I'll do it if I get enough responders via this thread (first come; first serve).

Does anyone else want to purchase a taper set from Oldgeezer, or me, at $15 including shipping within the continental U.S.?

Best Regards,

Bill Palmer
Chino Hills, CA
Click to expand...

I'm in... gil A
 
Morris garage

I think you are correct Bob, it is Morris Garage instead of Morse Garage.

That is the place where the prince of darkness, Lucas, works. I have a 1973 B model that I am now restoring.
 
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Taper Set Purchase

Thanks Gil and Charlie,

If I can get a couple more takers, I'll go ahead and purchase the taper pins, washers, and nuts.

Oldgeezer, are you in?!

Best Regards,

Bill Palmer
 
Tapered Reamers

Bill,

I ran across a couple of complications. There is a slight disconnect in the Jim Ellis Matronics Wiki on this subject, he calls for using a number 3 reamer, but then he specifies a number 4 tapered pin. This may be in order to keep the hole size to a minimum, but it seems a bit confusing. Of course the tapered pin dash numbers don't match the AN dash numbers. There is also a parallel VAF thread called "Tapered Reamer question." It points out that ACS may now be selling single tapered pins at reasonable prices: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an386taperpin.php .
 
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Taper Clarification

Charlie,

I sent Jim Ellis an e-mail (assuming his e-mail address per the article is still correct). Maybe someone else on the forum can help us out with the correct part numbers. Also, I live close to Spruce West, so I can go down there to check what they have once we confirm the correct part numbers.

Best Regards,

Bill
 
Hi Bill,

I sent you an email with answers to your questions. The part numbers in the Wiki article are correct. You can use either a #3 or #4 Brown and Sharpe taper reamer for the depth of hole needed in the nose gear depending mainly on availablity. The only difference is that the #3 inserts a little further into the pilot hole before it starts cutting.

Hope all this helps.
 
Thanks Jim!

Jim,

Thank You for your quick response! I'm posting your e-mail below for the others following this thread. And Thanks for posting the taper mod online for us!

Best Regards,

Bill Palmer

Hi Bill,

I struggled with this myself. AN part numbers just don't make sense sometimes. The part numbers are correct. See the ACS page to find the part numbers for matching washers and nuts. The thread size on a -4 taper pin is 5/16"-24. The reamer size can be be either a B&S #3 or a B&S #4. Either one will work equally well for a -4 taper pin. See the dimensions in the link for reamers below.

http://www.newmantools.com/reamer/SchedulS1.htm

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an386taperpin.php

Not to confuse you further, but if you can't get -13 taper pin (1 5/8" grip)you can use a -14 pin (1 3/4" grip) and just cut off the excess on the large end...they cut easily with a hack saw.

If you need more help just let me know...Good Luck!

Jim Ellis
 
Taper pin set purchase

Bill Palmer said:
Thanks Gil and Charlie,

If I can get a couple more takers, I'll go ahead and purchase the taper pins, washers, and nuts.

Oldgeezer, are you in?!

Best Regards,

Bill Palmer
Click to expand...

I would be interested in a set @ $15 if you are still contemplating this purchase.

Dick Tasker
RV9A
 
nose gear taper pin

Bill Palmer
I just came across your thread on the taper pins. If you are going to purchase the total number, you can count me in for a set.

Thanks
Oldgeezer
RV9A

Any chance we can get a discount on the reamers by doing a multiple purchase deal with a vender?
 
Last edited:
RE MG

tonyjohnson said:
I think you are correct Bob, it is Morris Garage instead of Morse Garage.

That is the place where the prince of darkness, Lucas, works. I have a 1973 B model that I am now restoring.
Click to expand...

Tony, I bought an MG B (MK11 model with electric overdrive on 3rd and 4th) brand spanking new in 1969 for $3000. It was a chick magnet in those days. I don't think it would be much of a chick magnet today....but then again neither am I :p

Cheers Bob
 
chunt0 said:
My 7A firewall drawing (dwg. 19) calls for a 3/4 in. access hole. The same drawing gives very precise dimensions for the hole location. In reality, the ideal location will vary slightly for every airplane. Every engine mount will be slightly different and every mount will will be positioned a little differently on the firewall. I pre-fitted my mount on the firewall, stuck a long 5/16 in. bolt through the gear mount hole and used its projected centerlline interference with the firewall to carefully locate my access hole. The resulting opening seems to be pretty much perfectly centered, but clearance for installing the bolt from below is still tight at the top and bottom of the hole. Because of the intersection angle involved, the bolt sees an oval shaped hole.
Click to expand...


A DAR that used to belong to my local EAA chapter suggested that all of us A builders not cut this hole, but instead place something behind the firewall like a bean bag or a shot bag and then hit the firewall with something like a ball peen hammer. In other words a nice smooth round dent to give room instead of a hole in the firewall. That's what I did and when I changed my gear leg the bolt came out easily and the access wasn't a problem. Just another way I guess.
 
Taper Pin Set Quotes

Gil, Charlie, Dick, Oldgeezer, Doyle, and Hugh,

I'm in the process of requesting quotes to develop a nosegear taper pin set (AN386-4-13 taper pin + AN975-5 Taper Pin Washer + AN310-5 Castle Nut + AN380-2-3 Cotter Pin). If I'm successful,

1. I'll post a "FS: Nosegear Taper Pin Set" in the Classified Section.
2. You guys are first on my list.

For everyone else interested, please hold your "I'm In" messages pending my post in the classified section.

Thank You,

Bill Palmer
 
ACS in Stock?

Charlie,

That's interesting! . . . Two weeks ago, the guys behind the counter at ACS West said emphatically that ACS does not carry -4 size taper pins. I see the pins listed online, though. I'll drive back down to ACS West (it's 10 miles from my house) and try again. If the counter guys are wrong, it's a good opportunity for me to needle them a little bit!

My taper pin set order is officially on hold until further notice!

Thanks for the "Heads Up!" and Best Regards,

Bill Palmer :rolleyes:
 
What am I missing?

I just reinstalled the nose gear leg on my 6A and the bolt and nut were installed with minimal issues. It did take a try or two to get the nut threaded correctly but once I did no problems.
 
Taper Pin

Bill, ACS may not actually "stock" the larger pins. I get the impression they may be a special order type item.
 
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