Van's Air Force
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Tailwheel locking pin
- Thread starter tracy
- Start date
pin
Tracy,
Maybe you should disassemble the tailwheel mount and clean the mechanism. The pin will hold again if you clean it up and put a little oil on it. I think you would really miss it's purpose in a stiff crosswind. I have the rocket steering link too, and it does do a good job when the pin sticks. I immediately disassemble everything and clean it up though. The airplane cost too much to bend up because I was negligent on my tailwheel maintenance.
David Watson
Tracy,
Maybe you should disassemble the tailwheel mount and clean the mechanism. The pin will hold again if you clean it up and put a little oil on it. I think you would really miss it's purpose in a stiff crosswind. I have the rocket steering link too, and it does do a good job when the pin sticks. I immediately disassemble everything and clean it up though. The airplane cost too much to bend up because I was negligent on my tailwheel maintenance.
David Watson
vfrazier
Well Known Member
Tracy,
We have a full line of replacement parts for all of the items mentioned above.
If the pin isn't locking, cleaning and lubing may help. Dressing any burrs may help too.
However, if the small notch in the control arm has rounded edges, you may be better off to simply get a new one. We have those.
You can also weld the notch and re-mill it, but that's a lot of work for a $20 item.
Email me at [email protected] if you'd like a free copy of our maintenance documents.
Hope this helps.
We have a full line of replacement parts for all of the items mentioned above.
If the pin isn't locking, cleaning and lubing may help. Dressing any burrs may help too.
However, if the small notch in the control arm has rounded edges, you may be better off to simply get a new one. We have those.
You can also weld the notch and re-mill it, but that's a lot of work for a $20 item.
Email me at [email protected] if you'd like a free copy of our maintenance documents.
Hope this helps.
RV7Guy
Well Known Member
We've got them too.
We have them too at JDair.com. Not a bad idea to keep a couple around. Vince is right on the servicing.
I always recommend servicing at every oil change. I prop up the tail a little on a saw horse. While the oil is draining I service the tailwheel. It only takes about 10 minutes start to finish. This seems to be a nice interval. I also use the time to pull the tail fairing and tail inspection plates and give everything a once over.
Don't hesitate to consult with questions. Vince or I will walk you through it no matter of the brand of stuff you have on your AC.
Keep'm serviced, Keep'm flying!!!
We have them too at JDair.com. Not a bad idea to keep a couple around. Vince is right on the servicing.
I always recommend servicing at every oil change. I prop up the tail a little on a saw horse. While the oil is draining I service the tailwheel. It only takes about 10 minutes start to finish. This seems to be a nice interval. I also use the time to pull the tail fairing and tail inspection plates and give everything a once over.
Don't hesitate to consult with questions. Vince or I will walk you through it no matter of the brand of stuff you have on your AC.
Keep'm serviced, Keep'm flying!!!
David-aviator
Well Known Member
Seems like the notch in there control arm wears out quickly.
Yesterday locked steering unlocked while taxing straight ahead for no good reason. Took it apart today and found the notch was not clean anymore, the edges were worn. Happen to have another one on hand and swapped it out.
Quests it's about time to order another one....
Yesterday locked steering unlocked while taxing straight ahead for no good reason. Took it apart today and found the notch was not clean anymore, the edges were worn. Happen to have another one on hand and swapped it out.
Quests it's about time to order another one....
Sam Buchanan
been here awhile
Dress edges of the pin
A common issue is the pin developing burrs which makes it stick and not engage the notch.
Carefully remove the pin, clean it, and use a file to gently remove the sharp edges of the corners on the long dimension. Grease everything well, reassemble and insure the pin is sliding freely in the bore. You will then be ready for a few hundred more landings.
I've dressed the pin 2 or 3 times in 15 years but never needed to replace the arm.
A common issue is the pin developing burrs which makes it stick and not engage the notch.
Carefully remove the pin, clean it, and use a file to gently remove the sharp edges of the corners on the long dimension. Grease everything well, reassemble and insure the pin is sliding freely in the bore. You will then be ready for a few hundred more landings.
I've dressed the pin 2 or 3 times in 15 years but never needed to replace the arm.
Last edited:
Tom Martin
Well Known Member
My rocket has a heavy tail weight and it is hard on the steering arm notch. A few years ago I had a couple of the arms sent to a metal shop and they heat treated them. Those arms lasted quite a bit longer. Since then I typically weld the notch and file it out. A chain saw file is perfect for the job. The interesting thing about welding the notch is that, in my experience, the weld is much harder then the base metal and the arms last a long time after the repair. You really do not need to weld the notch closed, just a few drops of weld on the area that is worn will do the trick.
As mentioned before regular maintenance will go a long ways to helping these parts last longer. Regular lubrication, 15 to 25 hours will also reduce the need to file the pin as mentioned in one of the other posts. It has been a few years now since I have had to file either the pin or the slot but those steering arms do wear on my aircraft.
As mentioned before regular maintenance will go a long ways to helping these parts last longer. Regular lubrication, 15 to 25 hours will also reduce the need to file the pin as mentioned in one of the other posts. It has been a few years now since I have had to file either the pin or the slot but those steering arms do wear on my aircraft.
skylor
Well Known Member
David,
If your control arm notch appears worn when you're still in early phase 1, something is clearly amiss. My stock arm has 300 hours and almost 400 landings with no wear in the notch, although I did have to deburr the pin once. Also, use light oil, not grease on the pin. Grease will eventually gum up and cause intermittent sticking.
When I first buit my -8, I thought I was doing the right thing by rounding the sharp edges of the arm notch...then I realized that it wouldn't stay locked that way!
Skylor
RV-8
David-aviator
Well Known Member
Thanks,
The notch had some burr on it when it was checked and assembled, I used a scotch wheel to remove it and took a slight amount of material off the edge in the process.
But I don't think that was the problem. I found a slight up-down motion of the shaft and when it was in the down part of that motion, it would unlock or not lock when centered. A thin steel washer was added under the nut and now the shaft does not move up or down and it seems to stay locked and re-locks easily. It will be taxi and flight tested today.
skylor
Well Known Member
Tail wheel washer
That reminds me of something else that I found: the threaded portion of the tail wheel fork steering shaft has a radius where it meets the larger diameter shaft. In my case, the washer didn't have enough chamfer on the ID, thus it was resting on the radius instead of on the flat portion of the shaft causing some vertical play and binding of the pin. I used a dremel to chamfer the ID of one side of the washer which eliminated most of the vertical play of the tail wheel steering shaft.
Skylor
That reminds me of something else that I found: the threaded portion of the tail wheel fork steering shaft has a radius where it meets the larger diameter shaft. In my case, the washer didn't have enough chamfer on the ID, thus it was resting on the radius instead of on the flat portion of the shaft causing some vertical play and binding of the pin. I used a dremel to chamfer the ID of one side of the washer which eliminated most of the vertical play of the tail wheel steering shaft.
Skylor
David-aviator
Well Known Member
The washer with my unit may be chamfered already and I did not notice it. It now rides flat on the surface, it did not before, it may have been upside down or the washer simply fits better than it did.
In any event the vertical motion is gone and tail wheel steering is now normal, it locks and unlocks like it should.
Great thread. I've been frustrated with an unpredictable release of my tailwheel for a while. Replaced the pin which gave a slight improvement.
Now I have several new ideas to try for a fix.
First will be to get the grease out of there and lube with oil.
Second will be to get rid of the free play on the shaft.
Now I have several new ideas to try for a fix.
First will be to get the grease out of there and lube with oil.
Second will be to get rid of the free play on the shaft.
Shim washer
I had similar problems, pin would pop out sometimes.
The fix ended up being a shim washer. Vince and FlyBoys sell them in various sizes. Takes the slop out (but not too much).
I had similar problems, pin would pop out sometimes.
The fix ended up being a shim washer. Vince and FlyBoys sell them in various sizes. Takes the slop out (but not too much).
vfrazier
Well Known Member
Just to reiterate an earlier post, if the control arm notch has worn corners, you'll probably do well to replace it. The locking pin can be dressed with a file to remove any burrs. Then put the freshly cleaned and greased parts back together.
Vertical play isn't as big a problem as you might think. The part stack is compressed when the tire is on the ground, so a little bit of vertical play is usually OK.
However, if the control arm is wobbly and loose while the tail is on the ground, better have a closer look to find out why. (Some play is normal! Lots is not.)
Vertical play isn't as big a problem as you might think. The part stack is compressed when the tire is on the ground, so a little bit of vertical play is usually OK.
However, if the control arm is wobbly and loose while the tail is on the ground, better have a closer look to find out why. (Some play is normal! Lots is not.)
Champ
Well Known Member
My tailwheel was not locking reliably even after cleaning, dressing the pin and light lube. What I figured was the pin was catching on the edge of the cam slot in the mount. For any one with this situation the solution was to put a slight chamfer on the bottom of the pin so it slides into the cam slot easier.
Blake at Flyboys suggested this or to sand a few thou off the bottom of the mount so the tailwheel pin would raise up a little. A shim washer on top would likely be required after doing this. Anyway the chamfer was easier and worked.
I’ve got new pins with stronger springs and a control arm on their way from Flyboys for future needs.
Blake at Flyboys suggested this or to sand a few thou off the bottom of the mount so the tailwheel pin would raise up a little. A shim washer on top would likely be required after doing this. Anyway the chamfer was easier and worked.
I’ve got new pins with stronger springs and a control arm on their way from Flyboys for future needs.
