Van's Air Force
Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.
Building fuselage before wings
- Thread starter olegusan
- Start date
I wanted to do the same thing for the same reasons you mention, but was advised by the factory not to do it. There are some parts you'll need from the wing kit to make this work. Search the RV-12 forum for spar receptacle and you'll find several posts on this. I decided to do the kits in the normal order.
Alex Edwards
Active Member
While you could do this but I am not sure that you will benefit a great deal. You dont want to joint the tail cone to the front fuselage until you have installed all the control mechanism and you need the wings for that.
RV-12 Stub spar/receptacle
I agree with Geico266's opinion in the above post.
The main wing spar and spar pins determine how far the wing slides into the fuselage. So no matter how well the wing stub spar fits into the fuselage receptacle, there could be play between the two parts (and often is). This results in fore-aft play at the wingtip. To correct this problem, Van sells part number W-1207B oversized. See "THE LIST"
When deburring the receptacles, do not remove too much material. When building the wings, I suggest temporarily attaching the rear stub spar until trial fitting the wing to the fuselage. If there is no fore-aft play at the wingtip, then final rivet the rear stub spar.
The short answer is, no you do not need the wings to build the fuselage. But you could buy part number W-1207B to make sure the fuselage spar receptacles are deburred correctly to accept the rear stub spar doubler.
I agree with Geico266's opinion in the above post.
The main wing spar and spar pins determine how far the wing slides into the fuselage. So no matter how well the wing stub spar fits into the fuselage receptacle, there could be play between the two parts (and often is). This results in fore-aft play at the wingtip. To correct this problem, Van sells part number W-1207B oversized. See "THE LIST"
When deburring the receptacles, do not remove too much material. When building the wings, I suggest temporarily attaching the rear stub spar until trial fitting the wing to the fuselage. If there is no fore-aft play at the wingtip, then final rivet the rear stub spar.
The short answer is, no you do not need the wings to build the fuselage. But you could buy part number W-1207B to make sure the fuselage spar receptacles are deburred correctly to accept the rear stub spar doubler.
joedallas
Well Known Member
Wing Last
If you order a set of W-1208B and W-1207A-L & R Spar Doublers You can built the Fuselage First.
In my opinion this Lets you finish the fuselage and gives you room in the shop without the worry of wing damage .
Also you may be able to buy a wing kit or finished wings from a builder who needs to sell.
The wings don't take long so building them last makes sense to me.
My fuselage, finish kit and avionics are as far as I want to go until I buy a Engine.
I am working on my wings now and they should be finished soon.
Building the wings last will work
My View
Joe D
If you order a set of W-1208B and W-1207A-L & R Spar Doublers You can built the Fuselage First.
In my opinion this Lets you finish the fuselage and gives you room in the shop without the worry of wing damage .
Also you may be able to buy a wing kit or finished wings from a builder who needs to sell.
The wings don't take long so building them last makes sense to me.
My fuselage, finish kit and avionics are as far as I want to go until I buy a Engine.
I am working on my wings now and they should be finished soon.
Building the wings last will work
My View
Joe D
Last edited:
pierre smith
Well Known Member
I did
Ken, at Van's, told me NOT to attach the tailcone until I was ready to fly. He said to wire it, plumb it, mount the landing gear and engine.
Just before flight, take a day or so and with the help of a friend or two, add the tailcone and tail feathers.
Best,
Ken, at Van's, told me NOT to attach the tailcone until I was ready to fly. He said to wire it, plumb it, mount the landing gear and engine.
Just before flight, take a day or so and with the help of a friend or two, add the tailcone and tail feathers.
Best,
joedallas
Well Known Member
Not Is Strong
Not is a strong word.
Attaching the Tailcone on my plans tell me to do it on page 25.03 Step: 01
Is ken saying that this is wrong, or he saying that is ok to delay this, there is a big difference.
I think it can be delayed, however I would not install the canopy until it is attached.
I know some have done it and in is ok, however I think the fit will be more precise if the tailcone is in place
My view
Joe D
Not is a strong word.
Attaching the Tailcone on my plans tell me to do it on page 25.03 Step: 01
Is ken saying that this is wrong, or he saying that is ok to delay this, there is a big difference.
I think it can be delayed, however I would not install the canopy until it is attached.
I know some have done it and in is ok, however I think the fit will be more precise if the tailcone is in place
My view
Joe D
RFSchaller
Well Known Member
I had a little fore and aft movement at the wing tips. Like many others I used shims rather than oversize stubs from Vans. I installed them two years ago and they have worked fine. I used 0.025" scrap to make the shim.
pierre smith
Well Known Member
Joe,
he said that the access to the inside of the fuselage is soooo much better with the tailcone off. I have access to the fuel tank and its associated plumbing and he said to turn the cabin section on it 's side and the tunnel about waste high. I can the put in all the cables, wiring, controls and so on from a rolling stool.
Best,
he said that the access to the inside of the fuselage is soooo much better with the tailcone off. I have access to the fuel tank and its associated plumbing and he said to turn the cabin section on it 's side and the tunnel about waste high. I can the put in all the cables, wiring, controls and so on from a rolling stool.
Best,
We did in fact build the fuselage before the wings with Eagle's Nest One. We ordered the parts already mentioned and had no problems at all. Just don't get carried away cleaning up the wing sockets. A loose fit would be a lot of work to correct. As far as putting on the tail cone, not a big deal either way, IMHO. Do leave the top sheet metal (don't recall the number) off or just clecoed on until you are about ready for the inspection.
Bob
Bob
joedallas
Well Known Member
The Word Not
I agree that it can be delayed however it can also be built by the plan.
My only concern is the word Not ( this would imply that the plan is wrong )
MY View
Joe D
I agree that it can be delayed however it can also be built by the plan.
My only concern is the word Not ( this would imply that the plan is wrong )
MY View
Joe D
Tail off, Fuse on it's side
Another vote for that approach.
Makes it a LOT easier to work inside the fuse (unless you ENJOY standing on your head).
I also put in the pedals that way and the AP Servos and Brackets (all fits into Pierres "Controls" Category)
And it's fairly easy to roll it back upright if needed.
One caution: Plug, tape over, or somehow block the lightening holes that will be below your work. One can spend a lot of time with "magnet on a stick" trying to recover dropped screws, washers, tools, etc. Worse...some things are not magnetic!
Cheers
Another vote for that approach.
Makes it a LOT easier to work inside the fuse (unless you ENJOY standing on your head).
I also put in the pedals that way and the AP Servos and Brackets (all fits into Pierres "Controls" Category)
And it's fairly easy to roll it back upright if needed.
One caution: Plug, tape over, or somehow block the lightening holes that will be below your work. One can spend a lot of time with "magnet on a stick" trying to recover dropped screws, washers, tools, etc. Worse...some things are not magnetic!
Cheers
Actually, I don't agree that a loose fit is a lot of work to correct. The best and right way to fix it is to use the oversize stubs. I know that shims have been used, but replacing the stub would not take much longer to do.
Have someone move the wing at the tip, measure the play at the stub spar location with your dial indicator or scale and order the stub you need. Van's makes them oversize in 0.010" increments up to 0.055". You can do the work solo, just pull the wing out a couple of feet and drill off the rivets holding the stub spar. You can reach in thru the rib holes to clean out the debris.
Squeeze the solid rivets for the bearing bracket on the bench, then install the new stub with cleco's to check fit.
Pull the LPs and reinstall the wing.
Pretty easy job really.
The seal is soft enough so you can get a measurement. If you are not comfortable doing it that way, you could remove the seal, but that is more work, as it is stuck on pretty good.
tomkk
Well Known Member
Yeah, definitely not interested in removing the seal...
cactusman
Well Known Member
FWIW, I built the tail cone section and then the wings and moved the wings out to the hanger, and started on the fuselage.
I did most of the fuselage and the started the wiring from the avionics kit and the flight controls at the same time with the fuse on the side in the garage.
Once I had most of the wiring in and flight controls in, I then attached the tailcone, the stab and finished the wiring, avionics kit and flight controls.
Engine kit, cowling and canopy were done last and then the entire fuse was moved to hangar.
I followed the directions here and now updated in the plans to avoid over deburring of the stubs and applied light grease and the first time the wings were fully fitted was when all the pieces were together in the hangar.
I did take the receptacles out to the hangar to do an interim check on the fitment if i recall rightly.
There were no problems.
The only problem is I can see is that the wings and tail kits are pretty fun and go fast.
The fuselage is pretty complex and slow going, especially the way I did it.
I did most of the fuselage and the started the wiring from the avionics kit and the flight controls at the same time with the fuse on the side in the garage.
Once I had most of the wiring in and flight controls in, I then attached the tailcone, the stab and finished the wiring, avionics kit and flight controls.
Engine kit, cowling and canopy were done last and then the entire fuse was moved to hangar.
I followed the directions here and now updated in the plans to avoid over deburring of the stubs and applied light grease and the first time the wings were fully fitted was when all the pieces were together in the hangar.
I did take the receptacles out to the hangar to do an interim check on the fitment if i recall rightly.
There were no problems.
The only problem is I can see is that the wings and tail kits are pretty fun and go fast.
The fuselage is pretty complex and slow going, especially the way I did it.
Last edited:
Cdenora
Active Member
I ordered fuselage and tail cone first
I ordered the tail cone and fuse first for the same reasons and everything has been going great, I am finished now and waiting for the finish kit , but I did wonder when I got to the section where the trailing edge stubs attachments had to be deburred how much to go because I could not see how to fix that once everything is built up and ready, but I have 3 other friends building the same way and they are about one kit ahead of me and they already attached the wings no problems reported.
I ordered the tail cone and fuse first for the same reasons and everything has been going great, I am finished now and waiting for the finish kit , but I did wonder when I got to the section where the trailing edge stubs attachments had to be deburred how much to go because I could not see how to fix that once everything is built up and ready, but I have 3 other friends building the same way and they are about one kit ahead of me and they already attached the wings no problems reported.
