What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Tank Baffle Sealant Bead Photo?

P

pilot28906

Well Known Member
Does anyone have a photo of where and how much sealant to put on the tank skin before installing the baffle? The plans say 3/16" from the holes forward. I installed the baffle on one tank today and looking into the inboard rib hole the bead looks good except in a one place where it looks like the bead sagged too much. I can fix this on easy enough but am concerned about the other bays. I wet set the rivets and will place a fillet at the baffel and skin. Any other helpfull hints?

Thanks,
John
 
Hi John,
I used about the same amount of sealant (maybe a little more) as in the picture posted by Bob but I put it FORWARD of the rivet line and just touching the holes as shown in the picture at the end of the wing section in the building manual. Looking inside the tank with an endoscope, I have a continuos and solid bead of sealant.
No pictures of my tanks but the one on the builder's manual is a good reference.
 
tank position

I did the same as other posters, but when I was all done I set the tank on the baffle end to cure. Gravity helped the sealer "lap over'' the skin to baffle interface, and when I inspected the tank inside after the cure with my borescope, I was impressed with the fairly smooth and even bead that was formed over the interface.
Truly, I am really not sure if that was magic or not, as I did not look at the bead before I set it aside to cure, but the results were such that I will do it again on my -9 tanks that I am soon to begin.

Hope this helps...
Chris
 
carguy614 said:
....when I was all done I set the tank on the baffle end to cure. Gravity helped the sealer "lap over'' the skin to baffle interface, and when I inspected the tank inside after the cure with my borescope, I was impressed with the fairly smooth and even bead that was formed over the interface.
Click to expand...

Smart...very smart.

Warming the baffle would further improve flow out.
 
I too put the 3/16" bead on the leading edge side of the baffle rivet holes. Worked quite well. I also let mine cure in the baffle down position. Great minds think alike! :)
 
I placed the sealant like the photo in the manual but there pust have been a little sage in places. On the next tank I will put sealant forward the rivet line and between the rivet holes. I am afraid there will be leaks on this tank at the baffel. I will fill in the places in the inboard bay but not sure what to do with the others except put on the float cover and do the leak test to see how bad it is. It looks like cutting holes in the baffel to fix the leaks might be a good fix. Has anyone had good luck with this fix?

I will place the next one baffel down to cure; this might have saved my bacon!

John
 
pilot28906 said:
I placed the sealant like the photo in the manual but there pust have been a little sage in places. On the next tank I will put sealant forward the rivet line and between the rivet holes. I am afraid there will be leaks on this tank at the baffel. I will fill in the places in the inboard bay but not sure what to do with the others except put on the float cover and do the leak test to see how bad it is. It looks like cutting holes in the baffel to fix the leaks might be a good fix. Has anyone had good luck with this fix?

I will place the next one baffel down to cure; this might have saved my bacon!

John
Click to expand...

I ended up having to drill a hole in my first tank to repair a leak. I used a 3" hole saw bit to cut the hole. Then used a 4" cover to put it back... Only tip is to drill it from the bottom (as in have the tank sitting on the bench with the leading edge pointing into the air) that way the shavings fall down instead of in... See here for the write up on mine:

http://danielhv.com/?p=526

Quick and easy.
 
Thanks

Thanks Daniel for the info and photos. I will seal this tank up and see if I can ID the leaks; I am sure I will be drilling some holes. This seems to be a much better solution to me than removing the baffel.

John
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top