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Avoiding tool rust?

rdamazio

rdamazio

Well Known Member
Hi all.

I noticed that some of my tools are starting to rust :(

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I bought them new about a year ago, so it sounds too early for them to be rusting. I do keep silica gel bags in the toolchest drawers, but that doesn't seem to be enough. Any hints on conserving tools and preventing/removing rust? I do use tool oil in my air tools, but haven't done anything for the others that are rusting (the above squeezer, many bucking bars, my back-riveting plate, automatic center punch, etc.).

Thanks in advance!
 
Scotchbrite pads will take off light surface rust, then wipe over with a little WD40 on a rag. If they still keep rusting, use them more frequently :)
Cheers, DaveH
 
If it's not chrome plated...

Uncoated tools, or even tools with a black coating (typically zinc phosphate), should be cleaned/wiped down with light oil before being put away. Most toolmakers or mechanics keep an oily rag in their toolbox for that purpose. Even the moisture from your hands can lead to corrosion on bare metal.
Terry, CFI
RV9A N323TP
 
Temperature stability. A cold tool condenses water from warm air just like a cold beer bottle.
 
DanH said:
Temperature stability. A cold tool condenses water from warm air just like a cold beer bottle.
Click to expand...

Do you heat the work space? Do happen to use propane or kerosene? Both produce lots of water vapor in combustion and the (cold) tools are the first place to collect water and the last to reach temperature. Are you within a few miles of the coast?

Kerosene has sulfur and the collected water is acidic. I know a guy who ruined over $30k of tools this way.

Tell us more about the work space and how the tools are stored. A 40watt incandescent light bulb in a fire protected area in a metal tool box will keep the temps in the tool box up.

Oh -WD40 and 0000 steel wool will de-rust the tools. Fix the pix. It does not show.

Scotch Brite has silicon carbide abrasive, much harder than steel wool. It will dull the appearance of mirror surfaces on chrome, steel wool won't.
 
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This has been a major concern for us since our move away from our temp stable shop. All of our expensive machine tools are stored in the house until the new shop is built. All machine surfaces that are still in the "very loose" garage have been "preserved". Hopefully we start shop construction within the next month. It took me 2hrs to find enough tools to shoot five rivets for a friend the other day. Maddening!

I agree with give 'em a wipe with an oily rag. How about that, this is one place where WD-40 could have a proper application in your shop :).
 
Dehumidifier

A dehumidifier will work wonders at preventing rust both on tools and on anything else you have in your work space

Gary Specketer
 
As others have mentioned, you can remove the surface rust with Scotch-Brite or fine steel wool and prevent it with a little oil or WD-40 -- used in the role for which it was developed for a change.

Dessicant gel packs or dehumidifiers can help in an indoor location, but in a humid garage they probably won't help much. Dessicant packs will also need to be dried out regularly, as they can only absorb so much moisture. Those are great for enclosed, relatively well sealed places. Tool boxes are generally not well sealed.

I had a lot of surface rust on things like my drill press, belt sander, etc. after sitting unused in the garage for several years. Some 0000 steel wool and oil cleaned them up, then a spray and wipe with WD-40 or a few drops of light oil has kept them in great rust-free shape ever since.
 
On the aviation isle at your local grocery!

I have used molasses several times, and it is the easiest way to remove rust, but it does take time, The process is called chelation, is very cost-effective, bio-degradable, and kind of fun. Light rust takes only a day or two, heavier perhaps a couple weeks. I use blackstrap molasses mixed with about eight parts water. See http://www.todayshomeowner.com/video/how-to-remove-rust-using-molasses/ It is amazing how well it works.

Bob
 
I was told about PH-OSPHO-RIC PLUS + rust crusher) by a welder friend of mine years ago and nothing compares. just apply with a brush and watch the magic happen. It neutralizes rust and helps prevent reoccurrences. It may be purchase at auto stores such as NAPA.
 
Some great suggestions here.
Plus one for dehumidifier. You can actually "feel" how dry the air is. I started using them for mold and mildew control given our wet environment in the Northwest but the benefits to my tools, vehicles, boats, and shop equipment has been obvious.
 
WD-40 Doesn't Compare to BoeShield

I have to disagree with the WD-40 recommendations, it goes away too fast, BoeShield is a much safer alternative.

Developed to shield aircraft parts on ocean journeys, it is the best I have found so far to protect tools.

Dehumidifying is the a great idea too.

Nucleus
 
in the gun world a few are always at the top in the polls on the forums. I use EEZ OX and it performs well. it dries after you put it on and I have never had even a finger print on a receiver.
 
A long-term solution

The cause appears to be humidity condensing on tools. While others have suggested a purpose-built dehumidifier, you might consider a beneficial effect of another solution.

Here in The Bear Flag Republic, incentives are increasing for solar power generation. Current installations require one or more inverters... which put out a small but regular amount of heat. If you're considering such a system, placement of the required inverter indoors could solve the tool rust problem.

Note: You can buy lots of molasses (WD-40, Boeshield, scotchbrite...) for the cost of a photovoltaic system.
 
Wipe the tools down with linseed oil. It dries completely in a day or so and keeps the rust away for up to a year. I keep a can in my tool box for just this purpose.
 
wood tool boxes and copper

Many machinist use wood boxes to keep the moisture from their tools. I have my tools from when I was young (long ago) in a wood box (Gerstner) and my precision tools are rust free. Another trick my mentors taught was to keep pennies in your tool box as the copper will attract the moisture rather than your tools. That trick probably will not work with the minimal copper in a penny nowadays.
 
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