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Lubricating rod end bearings

Berchmans

Well Known Member
I do not remember seeing this suggestion posted so thought I would share my method of lubricating the rod end bearings as my condition inspection is coming up. I hate trying to clean up the mess from any spray application so I went to the local pharmacy and picked up an assortment of syringes. Spray a tiny amount of the lubricant of choice in a small cup and apply the lubricant to the bearing using the syringe...no mess to clean up.
 
right or wrong

right or wrong, I have been using a drop of boeing-lube from REI. Seems to wick in very easily.
 
Probably lots of ways to do this. I always used to just give the bearings a squirt of LPS-2 and work them back and forth a bit. Hold a rag behind the bearing while spraying to keep from making a mess. Simple.
 
Probably lots of ways to do this. I always used to just give the bearings a squirt of LPS-2 and work them back and forth a bit. Hold a rag behind the bearing while spraying to keep from making a mess. Simple.

same for me except LPS-1. also, forget fuel lube for the fuel caps. it just makes a mess. use LPS-1 to keep them working smoothly.
 
LPS 1 Greaseless

I have been using LPS1 Lubricant for decades on RV's to airliners..until LPS1 greaseless came out. That is my go-to-lube. No dust collecting mess, and compatible with all the other LPS coatings. I use it for my gas caps and all moving parts on the RV. The rod end Hiem type bearings require very little lube, and the LPS is very thin and penetrating.
 
Probably lots of ways to do this. I always used to just give the bearings a squirt of LPS-2 and work them back and forth a bit. Hold a rag behind the bearing while spraying to keep from making a mess. Simple.

+1 - thin film and won't get stiff when -1F outside.
 
I need one of those! There are several places on my plane where a bottle won't fit. In those areas, I've been using WD-40 in a EZ-Reach can. Yeah, I know...

Keep in mind that WD-40 is not a lubricant. It is a "Water Displacement".
 
I have been using LPS1 Lubricant for decades on RV's to airliners..until LPS1 greaseless came out. That is my go-to-lube. No dust collecting mess, and compatible with all the other LPS coatings. I use it for my gas caps and all moving parts on the RV. The rod end Hiem type bearings require very little lube, and the LPS is very thin and penetrating.

what's the difference between the geese vs geeseless?
 
Under the heading of, "What I would do differently if I were to build it again," I would be add some sort of small access hole on the side bulkhead/ ribs that support the aft most elevator bellcrank on my -8A. Between the AP servo and the battery box, the lower tie rod is impossible (or so it seems) to reach!
 
Keep in mind that WD-40 is not a lubricant. It is a "Water Displacement".
That's why I posted "Yeah, I know...". but WD-40 will keep the rod ends from rusting until the Zoom Spout Oiler I just ordered arrives. :D I normally lubricate my rod ends with Tri-Flow, but the bottle has to be held upside down in order to dispense the fluid. In certain areas, that's just impossible. I chose Tri-Flow because it contains Teflon and is rated to -40 degrees.

This doesn't apply to RVs but I've replaced the 3/8" rod ends in my landing gear mechanism with the PTFE-lined version from McMaster-Carr. They're rated at over twice the static load as the traditional steel and brass, and never need lubricating. I don't think I would use them in my control system, though, because they feel a little stiffer.
 
This is the oil specified by the Tiger maintenance manual.
A general purpose oil to Mil Spec 7870 - should be good for those up-North fliers down to -65F and doesn't disappear in the AZ heat with an upper rating of 250F

https://www.145.aero/Castrol-Brayco-363-Lubricant-MIL-PRF-7870E-p/27029aecd.htm

Load your little squeeze bottle up with it. :) It also comes in aerosol cans but is harder to find. My aerosol can has lasted for years.

It is sometimes described as instrument oil.
 
Buy a can of Zip Chem Aero-Lube D-4261NS from Sky Geek. It meets MIL-PRF-7870C which is used and recommended by several major aircraft manufacturers for general lubrication. One can will last for years if you do no drop it and knock the stem off.

Can also purchase Royco 363 (meets MIL7870) by the gallon and use an aerosol sprayer or small oiler. Cheaper, but not as convenient.

Also get some aeosol can straw holders to keep straws in check and long straws to help put the lube exactly where you want it in tight spots.

George Meketa
RV8
 
Keep in mind that WD-40 is not a lubricant. It is a "Water Displacement".
WD-40 does contain a lubricant, and yes, its water displacement properties are well known.

I'll concede that it's not the best lubricant for most/all aviation applications! Great stuff in general.
 
WD-40 does contain a lubricant, and yes, its water displacement properties are well known.

I'll concede that it's not the best lubricant for most/all aviation applications! Great stuff in general.

I have not found anything better for removing those pesky Van's stickers. :)
 
I have not found anything better for removing those pesky Van's stickers. :)

This works extremely well and smells better...:)

S-17226.jpg


3M Citrus Based Cleaner - sometimes labeled as Adhesive Remover
 
FWIW: I also use LPS-2 but have these long straws called "Aim-A-Squirt". They are 33" long and come in two sizes which makes them amazingly handy.


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:cool:

Looks like pretty much the same thing at more than twice the price.
I have found the 16" long tubes to be more than long enough for everything I need to lube on an airplane and I prefer to support the RV builder specific vendors when I can, but any type of extension tube totally solves the problem.
 
LPS-1 or -2 or -3?

I see a few here use the LPS brand to lubricate the rod ends.

Some use the LPS-1 while others mention the LPS-2. Curious about LPS-3 since it is a longer lasting rust inhibitor.

Has anybody used the LPS-3 for their lubricant needs?

Wondering if the -3 will work for rod bearings? Says it is a waxy film that is self healing. Big question here is does it thicken once it gets near its -40 low temp rating?

Only one place in Kenai carries the LPS lineup. They only have the LPS-1 on the shelf, the others are special orders. Will be ordering the LPS-2 in the 20oz trigger spray bottle.

Bought the LPS-1 for testing.

Wondering if the LPS-3 will work or asking for trouble gumming up the bearings....

Best regards,
Mike Bauer
 
That's why I posted "Yeah, I know...". but WD-40 will keep the rod ends from rusting until the Zoom Spout Oiler I just ordered arrives. :D I normally lubricate my rod ends with Tri-Flow, but the bottle has to be held upside down in order to dispense the fluid. In certain areas, that's just impossible. I chose Tri-Flow because it contains Teflon and is rated to -40 degrees.

This doesn't apply to RVs but I've replaced the 3/8" rod ends in my landing gear mechanism with the PTFE-lined version from McMaster-Carr. They're rated at over twice the static load as the traditional steel and brass, and never need lubricating. I don't think I would use them in my control system, though, because they feel a little stiffer.

Tri-flow comes in both squirt bottles and spray cans. Found in most bike shops and Ace Hardware FAA/PMA section. The airframe in the type certified world that probably has more rod ends than any other is the Mooney. All three axis are completely torque tube operated, connected by multiple rod ends.
It specifically calls for Tri-flow or all rod ends, and the entire control system is required to be lubricated at least annually by AD. Two main advantages are the teflon and silicone. The carrier solvent evaporates and leaves you with a dry surface that does not attract dirt. I recommend lubing both sides of the rod end, and then working the rod end in whatever direction is possible, to thoroughly get the lube into the non-exposed areas of the joint.
 
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