Exhaust hanger on Superior IO-360

[KiloFoxtrot]

Can you guys shed some light on an exhaust hanger installation.

I have a Vetterman trombone exhaust with mufflers installed on a Superior IO-360 with the cold induction. Between the header and muffler/tail pipe is a ball type socket. I assume this is primarily for movement absorption.

As the pipes exit the cowl keeping a good airgap for spacing, I tried to install the hangars to the back of the engine, and I can't get a straight shot, so I mocked up this installation. I would like to get some opinions of experience from you.

Am I going to run into problems doing it this way?

If you have an IO-360 with a Vetterman trombone exhaust, how did you do it?

Thanks

[rv8ch]

Keep in mind that the engine will shake like a wet dog from time to time, which means it rotates along the same axis as the crankshaft. If your hangers allow for this rotation, which is substantial, then the mounting method is probably fine.

The "best" way is to fix the exhaust pipes to the engine, then they rotate together. If you can't do that, make sure your method allows for this movement.

Hopefully someone with the same engine mount (RV-7A) can chime in with a better solution. On the RV-8 it's easy to use the method described in the Vetterman documentation since there is no nose gear mount tubing to get in the way.

[wawrzynskivp]

For that specific installation I imagine the adel clamp loaded along the engine mount tubing as very prone to slipping. I would try something to fix it in place IRT to tension. It's tricky but I found a way to get those hangar attach points onto the engine for all of the good reasons to do that. Otherwise I think what you have it will work. If you can, maximize rubber length and minimize steel tube length?

It's been mentioned before, but a rehash is always good:

The tubing that forms the hanging support for the ends of the exhaust tubes is prone to slipping (hose slipping on small steel tube).

In my mind a rolled bead at each end of each tube would be the perfect solution so that the hose clamp could be mounted just above the roll and lock everything in place.

I didn't have that tool and used a very slight flare instead, works great. Others have had success with knurling or just roughing up the surface with a stone to give it some tooth.

It's probably going to get oily eventually so consider that now.

[pilotkms]

I have a Vetterman 4 into 2. So mine is different. But in case no one with your setup responds, my thoughts having replaced those tubes supplied by Vetterman:
U have the pipes supported by the motor mount tubes. I don’t think that is recommended. The engine will shake/vibrate differently than the mount. Attach to the engine (I used the sump bolts) so that the pipes move with the engine.

And if u want to head off additional maintenance issues, search for MOVING EXHAUST PIPES here on VAF. Several suggestions on modifying or replacing those tubes.

[KiloFoxtrot]

Guys,
Thank you all for your responses. I mocked this up just as a test, but I now can visualize what you are saying about rotating around the crankshaft. Allowing for more play in the rubber tube is good recommendation. I will also check the other posts.

Sometimes I look at it too long and it becomes analysis paralysis. Then it's time for VAF.

Another question came to mind. I read in some of the posts that the torques for the aviation bolts used on our planes can be different for the same size bolts which are used on engines. True or False?

So what is the torque of the bolts that go around the perimeter of the oil pan?
Would that be a dry torque or a lubricated?

Thanks much for sharing your experience!