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Rudder trim

Stockmanreef

Well Known Member
The rv-10 requires a rudder trim tab. Any one got an ideas if the rv-14 will require a rudder trim tab? Or is this a wild card at this point?
 
I will be extremely surprised if it does not.

The internal spring loaded rudder trim is the way to go, no need for an external tab, less drag, and if you really want to fit one later you can.:)
 
My last 10 required not a bit of rudder trim. Next won't get one either, but it will have an aileron tab.
 
Where does this statement come from? I've only built 5 RV10's so I'm really curious what your experience is that leads to this statement. Just trying to learn something here that's all, nothing more and nothing less :confused:.

The rv-10 requires a rudder trim tab.
 
Ken,

You may want to talk with Dick Sipp (he's got a 10 in Midland area if you dont already know him!about whether or not a trim tab is required or not on a RV-10. There are many flying without one.

There are also many that have a variety of trim tabs installed, from a fixed tab, a servo controlled tab, to a spring bias controlled. Like David mentioned I would personally recommend the spring bias controlled. I have the unit from Aerosport Products installed in my RV-10. It's a fifteen minute install and can be done at any time of the build.

Bob
 
I will be extremely surprised if it does not.

The internal spring loaded rudder trim is the way to go, no need for an external tab, less drag, and if you really want to fit one later you can.:)

Ah,

Now you have to prove it's less drag.... :)

Don't like bias springs myself. It's a fact, that other RV pilots preferred my aileron trim tab, over their bias spring method.

L.Adamson
 
Rv6rick: I have only flown in one an rv10. It required keeping your foot on one rudder pedal or the other to keep the ball centered. Not sure which one at this point. So I guess you don't need a rudder trim, but I am not sure I want to fly a long xcountry with foot on the rudder pedal. I guess that an autopilot would take care of this on long xcountries.

So if a rudder trim is not "needed", then why are there a bunch of fixes the out there? I can point to a whole bunch of sites for trim tabs and a commercial site that sells a "fix" using springs.

Is there something in the building process that would alleviate this issue?
Please educate me before I start building. Again I am a newbie here and am just pushing through a bunch of the individual builders sites. I assumed it was an issue for al rv-10.

I plan to talk with dick sip in the near future.
 
Here is an interesting discussion on rudder tabs, versus vertical stabilizer offset. Good reading, and no definate conclusions.


http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=82731&highlight=offset+rudder+versus+trim

Personally, I prefer perfect trim, no human control pressure to maintain perfect trim, and not relying on the auto-pilot to "constantly" maintain trim. Therefor, I want adjustable trim.............period! My 6A had electric tabs for both elevator & ailerons. Used a four way hat switch on the stick. They worked better than I could have imagined. A fixed tab for the rudder, but I wouldn't have minded an adjustable for it, also. I've seen numerous RV-10's with built in elec. rudder tabs. You could probably use Google for a variety of pics.

L.Adamson
 
No need for trim

There is definitely no NEED for trim but one of those nice to have things for the few occasions when you are too lazy to keep your foot on the rudder.
I use rudder trim for an extended climb and descent when I adjust rudder trim
and of course center the ball for cruise.
Here is a home brewed version of a very well functioning biased spring system
using an array of relays to enable a left and right button on my stick grip for rudder trim adjustment.
The spare flap motor assembly is a bit heavy but does have the power to easily
move the rudder.
For the sharp eyed builder, the cable clamps where temporary installation means and have been replaced with proper clamps.
IMG_1701.JPG
 
Ernst, the rudder trim on the 10 is just "extra stuff" for me but.....That's a really ingenious trim you got there.
 
Ernst, how do you know if you the right side trim is pulled a little if you are needing/pulling left trim? If you used just one actuator connected to a bellcrank (arm with a center pivot in case bellcrank is the wrong term) and each end of the bellcrank was connected to it's respective rudder cable then as you pulled on one side the other would slack off. Just a thought.
 
One actuator only

Ron, I am not quite sure I understand your question.
There is only one actuator in my installation, the one you see in the picture.
The spring on the right side(left rudder) is fixed and set to pull the rudder over to the left.
The actuator when fully extended favors rudder deflection to the left and when fully retracted will pull the rudder over to the right.
Use of a bell crank arm as you describe or a pulley and cable to move both springs in opposite direction would definitely be a refinement of this system but the brute force of the flap motor has no trouble overcoming the tension
of the opposing spring.
 
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