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  #1  
Old 01-31-2021, 06:54 PM
Roy25101 Roy25101 is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jekyll Island, GA
Posts: 65
Default Cleveland Trailing Edge Countersink Jig?

Cleveland Trailing Edge Countersink Jig?

I am about to start on the rudder and I really like using the drill press to machine countersink. I am considering investing in this jig but was wondering if it would get much use throughout the build. Perhaps it will get use on the elevator and ailerons. Thanks for any input......
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  #2  
Old 01-31-2021, 07:17 PM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 4,305
Default Training kit

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy25101 View Post
Cleveland Trailing Edge Countersink Jig?

I am about to start on the rudder and I really like using the drill press to machine countersink. I am considering investing in this jig but was wondering if it would get much use throughout the build. Perhaps it will get use on the elevator and ailerons. Thanks for any input......
If you built the control surface training kit, and you should have, drill it apart. Also good practice. Remove the wedge and use it as a shim. Works great. If not, buy the Cleveland Jig. They don't make bad tools. Enjoy. Build on.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 01/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #3  
Old 02-01-2021, 07:16 AM
mc607 mc607 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Canada
Posts: 38
Default

I just bought one and will let you know later this week. I use the drill press as well But you have to be careful. I use a Cleaveland cage without the plastic foot. I did run into trouble when I had the wedge set too high in my jig and the cage slightly crushed the t.e. of the wedge. I tried to take my rasp and smooth it out. Well, donít ever do that either.
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  #4  
Old 02-01-2021, 07:24 AM
Desert Rat Desert Rat is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: 50-50 Wichita KS & Scottsdale AZ
Posts: 538
Default

I bought the jig as well as their angled flush rivet dies. Both worked well.

For what it's worth, I pro sealed the TE then sandwiched it between two pieces of heavy angle. When it came time to rivet, I squeezed them all with hand squeezer. no rivet gun required.

RV7, but I'd imagine the 14 is the same process

Pix in my build log March 5th, 2020.
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AGI, CFI, CFII, MEI, A&P, Janitor
RV7 Empennage & Wing done
Fuselage in process
#72651
https://eaabuilderslog.org/?blprojec...t=all&listcat=
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  #5  
Old 02-01-2021, 04:09 PM
mc607 mc607 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Canada
Posts: 38
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy25101 View Post
Cleveland Trailing Edge Countersink Jig?

I am about to start on the rudder and I really like using the drill press to machine countersink. I am considering investing in this jig but was wondering if it would get much use throughout the build. Perhaps it will get use on the elevator and ailerons. Thanks for any input......
If you want to send me a pm with your email Iíll send you some pictures of my Cleaveland jig. Iíd do it on here but I always have trouble trying to post pictures.
My first impression of the jig is like most things from Cleaveland 👍
And donít use the substructure die on the rudder. This is my opinion and I didnít want to start a debate on nesting. The problem with the rudder is itís early in the build, and for first offenders, youíre still learning. I couldnít figure out why I was having trouble with back riveting. Everything I had read was itís the easiest rivet to set. Turned out the ss die was enlarging the dimples in the stiffeners just enough to make it difficult to set the rivets properly.
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  #6  
Old 02-01-2021, 04:21 PM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 4,305
Default Cleveland dies

Quote:
Originally Posted by mc607 View Post
If you want to send me a pm with your email Iíll send you some pictures of my Cleaveland jig. Iíd do it on here but I always have trouble trying to post pictures.
My first impression of the jig is like most things from Cleaveland 👍
And donít use the substructure die on the rudder. This is my opinion and I didnít want to start a debate on nesting. The problem with the rudder is itís early in the build, and for first offenders, youíre still learning. I couldnít figure out why I was having trouble with back riveting. Everything I had read was itís the easiest rivet to set. Turned out the ss die was enlarging the dimples in the stiffeners just enough to make it difficult to set the rivets properly.
Try using the Tank die on the second layer and SS die on third instead. So Tank die on stiffeners. A little less enlarging of dimples. Fit is nice.
That said, most RVs were probably built with one set of dies.
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 01/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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