Corrosion proof inside pushrod tubes/etc

[JeremyL]

So browsing through the threads here and seeing how people tackle the inside of these tubes to protect against corrosion, I decided to do some searching. I was wondering if any of you have heard of or tried the internal frame coating from Eastwood? (Link below) Also can anyone think of a reason not to spray this in the tubes? I’d like to hear your thoughts. Also they have a cool two part epoxy primer that you press a button on the aerosol before using to mix the parts, I’ll link that below as well. Hope you all are doing well and look forward to reading the thoughts/conversation on this.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-in...z-aerosol.html

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-...ray-black.html

[terrye]

Chemetall Ardrox (formerly Dinitrol) AV8 (may have been replaced by Ardrox 3140)

[Weefle]

I’m no expert on either of those products.

My only comment is on the two part epoxy primer. I’m sure it’s great stuff but twice the price of a typical rattle can of self etching primer like rustoleum makes. Secondly you need to have a large stash of parts to prime as once you activate the can the clock is ticking. If you only need a small amount it can be a waste.

Not to start a primer war but I decided early on to just stick with the self etching stuff. My 10 won’t be sitting near the ocean any time soon. As for the inside of the tubes I just sprayed the self etching stuff in one end and let it flow out the other while I rotated the tube.

Cheers,

Keith

[JeremyL]

Originally Posted by Weefle

I’m no expert on either of those products.

My only comment is on the two part epoxy primer. I’m sure it’s great stuff but twice the price of a typical rattle can of self etching primer like rustoleum makes. Secondly you need to have a large stash of parts to prime as once you activate the can the clock is ticking. If you only need a small amount it can be a waste.

Not to start a primer war but I decided early on to just stick with the self etching stuff. My 10 won’t be sitting near the ocean any time soon. As for the inside of the tubes I just sprayed the self etching stuff in one end and let it flow out the other while I rotated the tube.

Cheers,

Keith

I definitely don’t want to start a primer war. The two part is a cool alternative for the spray gun deal if you would want. I figured it would be cool to include. The inside of the tube must be protected and my main point in the post was for the former product, the frame rail coat product. That is the one I am sincerely thinking about using. Primer other odds and ends is a personal choice and has been debated for years, I’m not interested in hashing that again.

[JeremyL]

Originally Posted by terrye

Chemetall Ardrox (formerly Dinitrol) AV8 (may have been replaced by Ardrox 3140)

This is also an interesting and enticing product, I wasn’t sure about the “rubbery coating” when fully cured.

[robertahegy]

Back in 2003 I use Boeshield. I poured some in the tubes and sloshed it around and poured out excess. Not sure if that is SOP anymore.

Roberta

[Freemasm]

You're most likely not going to get good coverage from any paint product if the tubes have any length. I put Dinitrol AV8 in tubes as well. It is a great product and does dry so coating the exterior of the tube is when sealed up is no problem. Slosh it around inside or blow it through with a siphon gun. Let it dry before (much faster) or after it's closed up. It will out-last us. Another advantage is the amber color will let you verify the coverage.

Ref post 4 below if you want to consider other products. Most are good but you'll have a tough time beating the aforementioned.

https://vansairforce.net/community/s...light=dinitrol

[JeremyL]

Originally Posted by Freemasm

You're most likely not going to get good coverage from any paint product if the tubes have any length. I put Dinitrol AV8 in tubes as well. It is a great product and does dry so coating the exterior of the tube is when sealed up is no problem. Slosh it around inside or blow it through with a siphon gun. Let it dry before (much faster) or after it's closed up. It will out-last us. Another advantage is the amber color will let you verify the coverage.

Ref post 4 below if you want to consider other products. Most are good but you'll have a tough time beating the aforementioned.

https://vansairforce.net/community/s...light=dinitrol

The Eastwood stuff comes with a special 24 inch long applicator to get inside tubes and frames , fyi. Also I wanted to avoid the seeping or extreme wicking that most of the corrosion stuff gives. I’d rather not have the stuff leaking out of the pushrod for years.

[Freemasm]

Originally Posted by JeremyL

The Eastwood stuff comes with a special 24 inch long applicator to get inside tubes and frames , fyi. Also I wanted to avoid the seeping or extreme wicking that most of the corrosion stuff gives. I’d rather not have the stuff leaking out of the pushrod for years.

Sounds like your mind is made up. Your build so do as you wish. 24" isn't going to do much for an elevator push/pull link.

For anyone else that cares, the aforementioned Dinitrol product (and subsequent name) does become a dry film. an underutilized product in (GA/EAB) IMO.

BTW unlike paints and primers, surface prep is minimal for the film coatings

[lr172]

Originally Posted by JeremyL

Also can anyone think of a reason not to spray this in the tubes? I’d like to hear your thoughts.

Yes, it can flake off and create havoc in the rocker box. I don't understand the point of this. I remember these being aluminum. What type of corrosion do you expect here that wouldn't also destroy the rest of the aluminum parts, like pistons and engine block. Even if they are steel, why would they corrode any more than the steel pushrod or any of the other steel parts in the engine?

Sometimes you should NOT re-invent the wheel without fully understanding why no one before you has re-invented it.

Larry