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Hand Squeezer

Whiskyradio

Member
How important is it to an experienced builder to have both a pneumatic squeezer, and a hand squeezer? Some say you don’t need a hand squeezer if you have a pneumatic squeezer, but I have found in some cases, that a hand squeezer is perfect for the job.
Just wanted to get some input from others.

Thanks!
 
I found one of those little cheap hand squeezers very useful for dimpling in certain areas. Light and fast compared to the pneumatic squeezer.. hopeless for riveting though. You could get away without a hand squeezer if you have the pneumatic, but a cheap hand squeezer won't cost you much..
 
I bought my pneumatic squeezer when I started my RV-8, and have never owned a hand squeezer. I think I have used one once or twice out of curiosity - have never felt the need to add one to my tool box!

Paul
 
I like my hand squeezer and also use my pneumatic. The hand squeezer is used for quick setups and a few rivets or dimples but the pneumatic sure is nice for more production work. By the time I get the air hose to where I'm working and sometimes have to pump up some pressure I could have already finished the task with the hand squeezer. I usually use a C frame for dimpling and it stays set up for that usually.

They each have their merits and you might consider having both, but do yourself a favor if you buy a hand squeezer and get a good one that has some leverage. The cheap ones are **** in my opinion. You'll be so glad you did.
 
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I have both and I use both. With my hand squeezer I have a hard time squeezing a 4 rivet. I think I have more control with my hand squeezer. The had squeezer is lighter and for me generally easier to use. Now if I have a lot of repetition or larger rivets then I use the pneumatic squeezer.
 
The yokes are expensive. Worth it IMHO to make sure the squeezers/yokes are compatible if you get both. Also, the Numatx squeezer is an excellent alternative to the standard pneumatic squeezer, but that's another topic altogether.
 
Hand vs pneumatic

I bought my pneumatic squeezer when I started my RV-8, and have never owned a hand squeezer. I think I have used one once or twice out of curiosity - have never felt the need to add one to my tool box!

Paul

Same here. I have a manual. Not sure where it's at!
That said, I prefer gun and bar unless it's a string if identical rivets.
Every tool has a use. My manual squeezer prefers to take up space!:D
 
Thanks everyone for the feedback, I am still up in the air about buying one.
It’s hard to justify spending the money on a good one, only to use it once or twice during a build. The practical me says buy it, there will come a time you wished you did.
Thanks again everyone, I enjoy this forum and the info it provides.
 
I've (mostly) completed my -9 emp kit with only a pneumatic, I have not run into a situation where a hand squeezer was really wanted. But every shop is different - as pointed out above, if you only have a few squeezes to do, and making air or stringing hose is extra steps, you might want one. Also mentioned is that if you do, make sure they can share yokes, and that's good advice.
 
I use a hand squeezer probably 90% of the time. By the time I go to the trouble of getting the pneumatic set up for the proper throw I can usually have the job knocked out. It probably helps that I have quick change pins and a bunch of different yokes for my hand squeeze, so its pretty flexible.

The exception is if I'm squeezing a bunch of -4's. The pneumatic is easier on my hands and sets a better shop head that my tatco on the big ones, but not $800 bucks better...
 
I started with a hand and a pneumatic squeezer, and quickly abandoned the hand one. I see no reason for one if you have the pneumatic one.

Dave
 
If you have to drill out a rivet, you may need to "fatten" the next length rivet up a little, and a hand squeezer is nice for this job.

When you can't run the compressor @ 5:00 in the morning and want to set some rivets, the hand squeezer is also the tool. Unless you need the rivet gun, then you're out of luck.

I have a NUMATX, which is fantastic, but it's an all or nothing squeeze job (I suppose you could fiddle with the pressure setting). Partially setting the rivets on the trailing edge of the rudder, elevators and trim tab was done with a hand squeezer. I'm using the Cleaveland flat sets for the trailing edges in this case also. A pneumatic would also work, but I personally think the control of the hand squeezer would be better in this situation.

As someone else mentioned, the AD4 rivets are hard to set with a manual squeezer, although I've heard good things about Cleaveland's Main Squeeze.
 
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