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  #11  
Old 06-13-2021, 08:27 AM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is online now
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 4,540
Default Bend

I made the flare first. The extra length (1/2") didn't make much difference.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
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Donated 01/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
Empennage, wings, fuse, finishing kit, now FWF
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I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #12  
Old 06-13-2021, 09:19 AM
Mark Jackson Mark Jackson is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Houston
Posts: 73
Default Flaring bent tube

I was able to flare the end. The test version was acceptable albeit not too pretty. I was using scrap tubing and nuts so forgive the picture quality.

Steps:
  1. Make the bend.
  2. Install the sleeve so about 1/16 or more is out the top of the sleeve.
  3. Wrap the tube & fitting in masking tape.
  4. Install the fitting in the flaring tool so the body is in the clamp and the thick collar is in what is normally the flared area.
  5. Clamp the yoke assembly in a vise so the flaring cone is just above the tube end.
  6. Slowly (and with lube) screw down the cone.

My real takeaway from this is to do a better job planning. I think in each case I could route the tubing in a way that doesn't require these whacky bends.

I have ordered by second 12' of tubing from Vans. Hopefully this will go better.
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  #13  
Old 06-13-2021, 09:46 AM
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rv8ch rv8ch is online now
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: LSGY
Posts: 3,916
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Jackson View Post
...
My real takeaway from this is to do a better job planning. I think in each case I could route the tubing in a way that doesn't require these whacky bends. ...
This was exactly what I learned from a very similar situation.
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  #14  
Old 06-13-2021, 11:48 AM
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Mike S Mike S is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 15,956
Default

I wonder if a spring tube bender would work here?
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Flying as of 12/4/2010

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  #15  
Old 06-13-2021, 12:09 PM
TS Flightlines TS Flightlines is online now
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ridgeland, SC
Posts: 2,805
Default

The issue isnt necessarily the bender, but the width of the flaring dies. I have 3 tools. A Parker Rollo flare, a Rigid RFT37 that has a narrower flaring bar and an Olsen roll flare machine. Thats only if you bend the tube first. The big trick is flare the tube first, trim 1/2 of the tail of the 819 sleeve so it just protrudes out the aft of the nut, install the sleeve and nut. I made a threaded mandrel the screw into the nut, and rests against the fulcrum on the hand bender. Biggest trick is to cut a relief slot in the bend die at the 0* mark so the sleeve and nut can rest in that space. It effectively moves the flare aft towards the bend.

With our production flare machine we had special dies made with a narrow grip range and an open relief in the aft section of the die so a pre-bent 90* tube can be flared.

Tom
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  #16  
Old 06-14-2021, 09:43 AM
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kiljoy kiljoy is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Alameda, CA
Posts: 197
Default

I ran into the same problem making a couple of fuel line pieces. Found that I needed a minimum of 1.5" straight line to make the flare and hold the flange on. As long as whatever needed that line could have 1.5" of straight line leading into it it was fine.
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