What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Straightening curved fresh air vents

SabreFlyr

Well Known Member
Sponsor
After trimming the forward 3/4" of one of my fresh air vents per page 29-21, I still have a substantial curve that takes significant force to flatten. I'm concerned that, even with a good adhesive, it might still pry itself free at the forward end. I'm considering clamping it to the top of my workbench while using a hot air gun (Steinel; capable of somewhere north of 800°F) to soften the plastic. Any reason not to try this? Secondly, how much heat should I consider?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1740.jpg
    IMG_1740.jpg
    412.6 KB · Views: 280
  • IMG_1741.jpg
    IMG_1741.jpg
    549.3 KB · Views: 255
Gently warm it with a heat gun a little at a time until it's plastic (verb) enough to take a new set . Let it cool against flat surface , in a few minutes it aught to be good to go.
 
800 degrees is too much. Harbor freight sells a cheap heat gun, but you might have luck with a blow drier too
 
You have probably seen 2 and 3" conduit used in electrical work. We use a brush burner torch and heat that big thick stuff slowly and when it is in a plastic state just bend it to where we want. 90 degrees, around corners, you name it it goes.
Plastic is very malleable if you take care
Heat away. Art
 
Some good thoughts and suggestions! I'll have to mull them over and let you know which way I go and how it works out. Will probably tackle that tomorrow.

P.S.: DR, must have been a slow news day to put this one on the front page! ;)
 
If you have any scrap, test. If not, creep up on it w/ lower heat first. Clamping a conformed piece to it when cooling might help prevent warpage....
 
EZ fix.. You can use a cheap HF heat gun. Just wave it back and forth over the area you want to reshape until you feel the glass get pliable, takes only 10 ~ 20 seconds. Lay the piece on a flat surface and use a wet rag to cool it back down. Done.
 
Job done...almost. Used the Steinel gun. Started at either 120°F or 140°F, don't remember which. Kept raising the temp 20°F at a time and finally felt it was pliable enough at 240°F. Clamped the flanges on either side to the workbench with separate clamps and let it cool. 98% there. Just a little springback that I may or may not bother with.
 
Back
Top