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Riveting F817 L&R Side Plates
- Thread starter gpiney
- Start date
Bucking Bar
I used a small tungsten bar with a handle fabricated from some scrap 1/4" masonite (thin plywood or other stiff material will do). I taped the bar onto the handle with electrical tape.
The side skin was protected from the inside using some thin cardboard from a notepad and some thin high density foam.
The bucking bar/handle was pushed up from the bottom edge of the side plate; an inspection mirror and flashlight are handy to check bar postion.
This is best done with a bucking partner since the bucker needs to use some finger leverage on the back of the handle/bar with one hand and stabilize the position of the bar with the other hand. The foam padding worked well to protect the knuckles on the bucking bar hand.
The hardest part was finding a bar/handle configuration for each rivet; some re-taping/shifting of the bar was needed to get the best angle for each rivet.
Good luck,
Mike
I used a small tungsten bar with a handle fabricated from some scrap 1/4" masonite (thin plywood or other stiff material will do). I taped the bar onto the handle with electrical tape.
The side skin was protected from the inside using some thin cardboard from a notepad and some thin high density foam.
The bucking bar/handle was pushed up from the bottom edge of the side plate; an inspection mirror and flashlight are handy to check bar postion.
This is best done with a bucking partner since the bucker needs to use some finger leverage on the back of the handle/bar with one hand and stabilize the position of the bar with the other hand. The foam padding worked well to protect the knuckles on the bucking bar hand.
The hardest part was finding a bar/handle configuration for each rivet; some re-taping/shifting of the bar was needed to get the best angle for each rivet.
Good luck,
Mike
My riveting partner and I tried that and numerous other methods to no avail (fat hands). Does anyone know if a 2-1/2" no-hole yoke would work?
TIA,
Bob Ellis
Well Known Member
The upper three locations I pulled Cherrymax countersunk CR3212 4-2 rivets. Just did not look very doeable to get a good buck job on them. Rivet heads are covered up by the WD-808 front seat back support so unless you are using a mirror to check the manufactured heads it is unnoticeable.
