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  #11  
Old 11-25-2021, 09:48 AM
Bsquared's Avatar
Bsquared Bsquared is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: California
Posts: 143
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I bought a 1 foot length of mild steel 1x 1 bar for about $5 and spent 20 minutes on a bench grinder to make my own bucking bar. Worked great and I used it as a back riveting bar on the trail edges as well.
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  #12  
Old 11-25-2021, 10:08 AM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 4,778
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Home brew bars are awesome. I also tape my heavy tungsten to the home made bar for additional mass. Really helps.
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Estes Park, CO
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (3,000+ hours)
Empennage, wings, fuse, finishing kit done. Working FWF
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #13  
Old 11-25-2021, 07:29 PM
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KeithB KeithB is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Granbury, TX
Posts: 314
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Quote:
Did anyone skip the special bucking bar process and only use the MK319BS in the places allowed for in the Elevator bottom skin riveting? I was going to use Cherry Max but they are larger and its too late to countersink/dimple to accept. I am going with only the MK319 on entire bottom elevator aft spar.
I skipped the special bar and used MK319BS rivets. I filled the holes from the stems prior to painting (epoxy resin or JB Weld works). Results are acceptable, but doing it again, I would invest in the bucking bar - it yields a cleaner result.
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RV-14A Builder - kit #136 (complete) and #770 (in process)
N314KC - First flight Mar 8, 2017, 24th in the air, >750 hrs
XP-400 Aero Sport Power, replaced with Lyc Thunderbolt 390
RV-6A sold
Sport Pilot (weight-shift control) - Airborne XT912
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