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Tow bar holes

wirejock

Well Known Member
Plans say 11/16". Is that adequate? I really dont want to mess up a nice paint job because the tow bar doesn't fit the holes.

Also, any recommendations on a tow bar?
 
A Bogi-Bar works good for me on my -7A. It's got thinwall tubing that just fits over the 5/16" washers under the towbar bolt heads. I switched from the allen head bolts to an AN bolt with a stack of 6 or 8 washers (I can't remember) beneath the head so the towbar would have a better grip. If the towbar slips off of the bolt, you end up pulling directly on the nosewheel fairing. If you want to keep your paint job nice in that area, make sure that you're the one using the towbar. Other users, aka linemen, aren't quite so careful.
 
Bogi

A Bogi-Bar works good for me on my -7A. It's got thinwall tubing that just fits over the 5/16" washers under the towbar bolt heads. I switched from the allen head bolts to an AN bolt with a stack of 6 or 8 washers (I can't remember) beneath the head so the towbar would have a better grip. If the towbar slips off of the bolt, you end up pulling directly on the nosewheel fairing. If you want to keep your paint job nice in that area, make sure that you're the one using the towbar. Other users, aka linemen, aren't quite so careful.

What is the dimension on the Bogi Bar? ID? OD?
 
Don't get me started

Oh Don't get me started on tow bars.

I just wasted a whole night trying to make one.

I saw the Bogart are quite expensive. So I thought I could make one.

Went down to Lowes, bought some alum C-channel, drilled a 5/8" hole in two ends of a fork to fit over the bolt and washers. Riveted on a handle.
Tried to turn the wheel using the tow bar and broke a AN3 rivet I had used to hold it together.
After that, if it was wood, I would have used it in the fireplace...

So now I am shopping for a Bogart...

The tow bar needs to be strong due to the breakout force of the castering nose wheel.
 
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Spend the extra money for a Bogart tow bar. I had one for my -10 and loved how light it was. When it came time for buying one for my -9A, it was during the peak of the lock down and unavailable. I opted for the generic Cessna style from AS&S. Though it works just fine, it is probable double the weight of the Bogart. I’ll probably swap it out when the time comes to fly this thing.
 

Yes those are very nice and work well. They need a hole in the wheel pants of 1 5/16. Without them or something similar you will indeed chew up the paint surrounding the holes. They're kind of expensive...seems like they'd be pretty easy to make for anyone with machinist skills. Looks like about a 10 minute project for someone with access to a water jet cutter or a milling machine and some scrap stainless steel. I would guess that they could be made out of aluminum too.

I use a plain old Bogert tow bar. It's nothing special but works OK. It's not particularly durable but it came with the plane, and for me this is a low-stress application. The tow bar is amenable to rehab when necessary. I did make an extension rod with a ring so it can tow from my truck or golf cart. I don't actually use it much since getting a Best Tug Alpha 2. I have a slight incline down out of my hangar so pulling the plane out by the prop is no problem. Putting it back in is hard, though especially in the winter since water melting off the roof runs off, hits the ground in front of the hangar and re-freezes...hence the Best Tug. Pushing an airplane backward with a free castering nose wheel can be frustrating.
especially on the ice.

..
 

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I used stainless steel washers, installed with nutplates. I did machine the holes to match the ends of the bogi-bar. :cool:

p.s. I also extended the heads of the socket head bolts about 1/2 inch outside of the wheelpant. Makes it much easier to attach the bogi-bar and especially the tug.
 
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I plan to use an aluminum ring riveted or bonded on; I don't see a need for a flange.

I agree about the flange.

What are you going use for the aluminum ring? Make it or buy it? If you’re going to buy it, what’s your source?
 
On my Bogart towbar, the dimensions of the end tubes that slide over my AN bolt with washer stack are:

The O.D. is 3/4" and the I.D. is 5/8". It is somewhat snug as it should be, but easily slides over the washer stack with no lubrication needed.

I've had it several years and the end tubes are still round, but could be elongated with some minor abuse by less careful users. I don't use a flange and the paint on the nosewheel fairing around the holes, while not perfect, is still in very good condition.
 
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Towbar

On my Bogart towbar, the dimensions of the end tubes that slide over my AN bolt with washer stack are:

The O.D. is 3/4" and the I.D. is 5/8". It is somewhat snug as it should be, but easily slides over the washer stack with no lubrication needed.

I've had it several years and the end tubes are still round, but could be elongated with some minor abuse by less careful users. I don't use a flange and the paint on the nosewheel fairing around the holes, while not perfect, is still in very good condition.

That helps. I called Bogart and the lady told me the ID was 3/4 plus .049" thick steel. I thought that was a pretty sloppy fit on those hex bolts. Glad I didn't bore a huge hole in the pant!
 
Added protection

Even though I have chrome rings around my tow bar holes I added shrink tube to the bars and if you use shrink tube with an inner liner you can push it inside protecting you pants from a sharp edge of the thin wall tubing.
 
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