What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

The Yips - not just for golf

skelrad

Well Known Member
Friend
Just when I thought I was getting the hang of riveting, along came the tanks. I can't set a good rivet to save my life all of the sudden! I abandoned trying to rivet with freshly applied proseal because that made everything 10X worse (and also made it so I couldn't see what the rivet result was anyway - something that became more and more important as I screwed up one rivet after another). So now I'm going the route of letting the proseal cure just a bit so I can at least see what my rivet heads look like. I should have kept living in ignorance - I think I'm probably shooting 50/50 for acceptable vs clinched rivets. I have no idea why I'm laying them over suddenly - bucking bar looks parallel to the surface and it's the proper rivet length. The worst offenders tend to be the last few rivets on the top side leading edge. I've gotten my use out of oops rivets there.

After the swear jar filled up enough to fund a second airplane, I finally just called it. Very frustrating.
 
I had the same problem when I built my RV-9A tanks many years ago. The answer was to stop working solo and enlist the help of another builder. Riveting was much easier with one of us bucking and the other shooting.
 
Still using proper air pressure?

Yeah, same air pressure I've always used before, but maybe I should play around with it a bit. I'm sure I must be letting the bucking bar wander to a goofy angle, even though it sure doesn't seem like I am. Or, maybe I just pulled out the left turn rivets instead of the straight ones by accident.

I'll let it sit tonight and try again tomorrow. Maybe fresh eyes will see my error.
 
Mistakes can happen with even the most experienced builder. Go at it again tomorrow.
 
Last edited:
I found it helpful to slather up the parts and cleco them together, with a cleco in each hole. When the sealant is fully cured, then rivet. On the inside, topcoat each rivet with Type A sealant, per the second picture. Do the edges per the first one, too, of course.

Tank Sealing 1.jpg

and

Tank Sealing 2.jpg

Dave
 
I’m not an expert but I would imagine that riveting with wet proseal may result in a better seal. The mechanics of bucking a rivet changes the shape of the mating parts. This could introduce some distortion which could possibly allow a path for fuel. If you rivet when wet, the proseal moves into the new shape easily.

I hated the tanks and the mess and yes riveting while dry would have been easier and cleaner. I’m just not sure it’s the best way.
 
I found it helpful to slather up the parts and cleco them together, with a cleco in each hole. When the sealant is fully cured, then rivet. On the inside, topcoat each rivet with Type A sealant, per the second picture. Do the edges per the first one, too, of course.

View attachment 26079

and

View attachment 26080

Dave

Dave I find these photos interesting but it’s kind of the opposite of the Van’s video saying less is more.
 
I’m not an expert but I would imagine that riveting with wet proseal may result in a better seal. The mechanics of bucking a rivet changes the shape of the mating parts. This could introduce some distortion which could possibly allow a path for fuel. If you rivet when wet, the proseal moves into the new shape easily.

I hated the tanks and the mess and yes riveting while dry would have been easier and cleaner. I’m just not sure it’s the best way.

It seems to work well for many people, so I'm giving it a shot. So far, bad riveting aside, I've seen that clecoing every hole does pull most parts together well enough. As a final step after riveting I will of course add proseal to any questionable areas.

https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=7602
 
I let the ProSeal stiffen up before riveting. Use a ceco
I each hole and fresh ProSeal on the rivet. Didn’t leak.
 
Dave I find these photos interesting but it’s kind of the opposite of the Van’s video saying less is more.

Well, what I think Van's doesn't want you to do is smear it all over when you're just trying to get it in between the parts. These pictures show how to add additional, after-the-fact sealant. Note that here, the rivets are installed. What these show is how to cover the seams where fuel could leak. Now fuel might not; your original sealant might have been perfect, but these are still the paths fuel could follow if you did not originally achieve a good seal. Block them and the fuel won't leak.

Dave
 
Back
Top