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  #11  
Old 06-13-2022, 08:42 AM
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Ironflight Ironflight is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TS Flightlines View Post
Try premolded silicone 90* hose. Or, we did this for a client. Convoluted teflon, impervious to oil, and has pretty good flexibility. He wanted just enough to connect to his aluminum tube. 3/4 ID, so he had to expand the aluminum tube on the hose end to fit tight, then clamp. Think he wrapped it with firesleeve tape, ot maybe took a piece of 3/4 OD, .049 wall aluminum tube and forced it over the breather tube to "enlarge" the end to fit the hose.

Bullet proof, and oil doesnt affect it.

Tom
Hey - I think I recognize that!!

The heavy black “wrap” is actually thick heat-shrink tubing that was handy. Diameter adjustments might have been made with various wrap material that passed temperature tests…..
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  #12  
Old 06-13-2022, 09:47 AM
TS Flightlines TS Flightlines is offline
 
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Hi Paul----I thought you would!!!

Bill----any pre molded hose from Napa or others would be heater hose and NOT oil or oil spray compatible. It will become soft like a sponge.
Now, industrial and truck supply houses 'may' have something, but probably not in a 3/4 ID.

We have also replaced the accessory case nipple to use a AN816 and a AN hose end on the breather side, especially with Christen/Raven inverted oil systems.

Tom
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  #13  
Old 06-13-2022, 12:08 PM
scsmith scsmith is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lr172 View Post
I had a similar challenge on the 10. I used silicone hose to get to the down tube, but couldn't find the elbows I needed (can't get much bending in that type of hose) I used a bit of 3/4" copper tube and elbows, soldered up to match the angles I needed. In your case, 1/2" copper tube should have an OD around 5/8", so just solder a small stub of tubing on each end of the elbow for the transition to rubber or silicone. A street elbow will only require one stub. It adds a couple ounces of weight, but avoids a hassle. Type M is lighter than L or K.

You can also find pre molded elbows in silicone at the race shops, like summit. Not sure you will find 5/8 ID though.

Larry
Pegasus Auto Racing and Summit both have molded silicone hoses that are perfect for what I need. But they say in the fine print that they are not resistant to oil. I imagine they would be better than heater hose though, so that might be a way to go. Dave Howe sent me a note about a racing shop in the UK that offers silicone hoses with a "flouro" liner that makes them oil resistant. Anyone know anything about that?
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  #14  
Old 06-13-2022, 05:24 PM
TS Flightlines TS Flightlines is offline
 
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Yep, florosilicone is oil resistant, but expensive.

You can always byt several of the heater hose versions and change them at conditional time.

Tom
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  #15  
Old 06-14-2022, 07:27 AM
Southern Pete Southern Pete is offline
 
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I've used Flourosilicone hoses for the first part of the breather for many years. They have to be swapped out after a few years, perhaps 5 or 8.
The most well known company over here is called Samco, but several others.
This link gives an indication of the relative prices.
Just a little more than twice as expensive as silicone - not too bad for an angle or a short length.
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  #16  
Old 08-05-2022, 08:30 AM
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bjdecker bjdecker is offline
 
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Default An alternative...

I was looking at a friends IO-360-M1B, and I noticed that the breather tube is different than what is installed on my IO-360-A1B6, i.e. an AN844-10D (45° elbow tube 5/8") and I have the "classic" 71140 Breather fitting (3/4").

As we all know, the Van's firewall forward kit breather setup consists of a NAPA 9816 coolant hose (3/4"I.D. 90° elbow) and a piece of 5/8" aluminum tubing with a 3/4" flare on one end that is supposed to mate with the NAPA hose and then the Lycoming 71140.

What if we were to change to an AN844-10D elbow, connect a short length (say 4" - 6") of MIL-DTL-6000D 5/8" hose to the Van's pre-fab tube -- we'd need to cut the flared end off, clamp and go

Thoughts -- in no particular order:

1. Eliminating the NAPA 9816 is a good thing -- rad hose won't stand up to the evil emanations from the crank case.

2. The port in the case for the breather is 1/2" NPT, so changing from 3/4" (71140) to 5/8" (AN844-10D) doesn't restrict anything.

3. AN844-10D is in the parts catalog as a breather option. AN844-10 is also available in brass.

4. See #2 - the Van's tube is 5/8", down stream of the 71140/NAPA 9816 so changing to 5/8" for the length wouldn't present any restriction to the breather operation.

5. MIL-DTL-6000D is designed for all manner of petroleum distillates, is flexible, so engine shake/rattle/roll is handled in much the same way as the NAPA 9816 but without the risk of rot/collapse...

Whatcha think? Attached images from the Lyc. catalog.

B
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  #17  
Old 08-05-2022, 08:48 AM
Stevea Stevea is offline
 
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Default alternate to van’s breather design

Quote:
Originally Posted by bjdecker View Post
What if we were to change to an AN844-10D elbow, connect a short length (say 4" - 6") of MIL-DTL-6000D 5/8" hose to the Van's pre-fab tube -- we'd need to cut the flared end off, clamp and goB
Exactly what I did on my 6A. Works well with no soft/squishy heater hose after a couple off years. I did have to replace the oil hose after 8 years and 1000 hours…the mil6000 hose to tough stuff, but it does harden with age, eventually.

The only tough part about this solution is finding the AN844-10D elbow in stock, and what it costs. ~$45 for one AN fitting. Sure it is bigger than all of the 1/4 and 3/8” fittings we normally use……but still more “spendy” than I thought it would be.

Also, beg/borrow/or steal the use of a tube beading tool to bead the aluminum tube. Helps keep the hose from leaking.
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Last edited by Stevea : 08-05-2022 at 08:54 AM. Reason: added tube beading tip
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  #18  
Old 08-11-2022, 04:33 AM
GregMac GregMac is offline
 
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On RV10 IO-540 I used good quality silicone hose from engine, all the way down to the exhaust pipe where it’s pushed over (and clamped) to a piece of SS Tube that’s welded into the exhaust. (interestingly around two inches up from the exhaust pipe there isn’t enough heat transmission to effect the silicone hose) The hose can be allowed to go as high as possible under the top cowl, and with suitably sited ties this hose handles the 90* bend and then accommodates any deviations needed on the way down to exhaust. So for me I didn’t use the Vans Aly breather pipe (which freed up firewall space) so no need for the bends etc you are needing. This method is now 760 hours, I have replaced the silicone hose once but only because the outside blue had faded a little, and I had enough on hand to replace it. Anyway, just my TCW
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  #19  
Old 08-11-2022, 06:09 AM
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AlexPeterson AlexPeterson is offline
 
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Back to Steve's original question - I used a 1/2" copper sweat fitting elbow. The 3/4" hose fits and clamps on to make a nice tight turn.
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  #20  
Old 09-01-2022, 06:45 PM
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bjdecker bjdecker is offline
 
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Default New & Improved Breather

As part of the Condition Inspection work, I decided to "fix" the original Van's design.

I removed the NAPA radiator elbow hose section & the Lycoming 71140 breather nipple. In its place, I installed an AN844-10 in brass, with a short section of MIL-DTL 6000D 5/8" i/d hose. I cut off about 18" from the Van's breather tube and put a very slight flare in the end.

Picture attached -- clamps are not yet installed...

Enjoy.

B
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Last edited by bjdecker : 09-01-2022 at 06:49 PM.
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