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Nose Gear Noise

When moving my RV-7A about the hangar with the tow bar, when side loads are encountered, the nose gear makes a lot of "creaking" noises which appear to be emanating from the gear leg-to-engine mount area. Normal or no? Checked the mount bolt during the condition inspection and there was no indication of looseness, etc.
 
When moving my RV-7A about the hangar with the tow bar, when side loads are encountered, the nose gear makes a lot of "creaking" noises which appear to be emanating from the gear leg-to-engine mount area. Normal or no? Checked the mount bolt during the condition inspection and there was no indication of looseness, etc.

Try tightening the nut on the leg to mount bolt.
 
My suggestion, pull the leg, grease it up and install with a new NAS bolt.
 
Don't believe is normal and needs to be checked, perhaps what Walt suggested will remedy the issue.
 
My suggestion, pull the leg, grease it up and install with a new NAS bolt.

If there is any movement or deformity of the engine mount bolt hole, this approach is only a band-aid and temporary fix at best. An interferance fit close tolerance bolt, or better yet a taper pin, is a proven way to permanantly address the issue.
 
While you're down in that general area make sure the nose pivot stop plate is not on backwards. There's a Vans SB on this.
 
While you're down in that general area make sure the nose pivot stop plate is not on backwards. There's a Vans SB on this.

Yeah, got that one during the ACI. All applicable SBs have been complied with on this aircraft, including the upgraded nose gear replacement. I was wondering if this new nose gear might be slightly different and a possible cause of the "creaking".

How tight is the fit when installing the gear leg into the mount? I guess my main concern is, because I just purchased this airplane recently, and haven't had much of a chance to fly it (6 - 7 hrs. since 8/16), I don't know how long this condition has existed and whether the bolt hole has elongated or the inside of the receptacle has worn to the extent that I may need to replace the engine mount.

I just completed the ACI and all appeared to be OK and properly torqued. I guess I'll have to uncowl and look a little closer.
 
My suggestion, pull the leg, grease it up and install with a new NAS bolt.

If there is any movement or deformity of the engine mount bolt hole, this approach is only a band-aid and temporary fix at best. An interferance fit close tolerance bolt, or better yet a taper pin, is a proven way to permanantly address the issue.

My suggestion above would "assume" no additional problems exist, if the bolt holes are elongated then thats a different matter.

FYI, the NAS bolt suggestion is a close tolerance bolt.
 
A lot of folks, including me, missed the fine print....a hem....or just missed the part about the hole in the mount and leg get a .311? hole and not a 5/16 reamer, and end up with too much play, so mine got the taper pin as mentioned above.
 
But a NAS bolt by itself does nothing. As you know, it must fit with no slop or play thus the interference fit. Both parts of the equation are important.

Actually it does do something, NAS bolts are generally a few thousands larger dia than std AN hardware so it helps. Perfect solution... maybe not, but better than dropping another AN bolt in the hole and in many cases is all that is needed to tighen things up a bit.
 
Another 'creaking' nose gear ...

When moving my RV-7A about the hangar with the tow bar, when side loads are encountered, the nose gear makes a lot of "creaking" noises which appear to be emanating from the gear leg-to-engine mount area. Normal or no? Checked the mount bolt during the condition inspection and there was no indication of looseness, etc.

Ditto on the creaking, with just over 16+ hrs Phase 1, I've heard it and was about to start researching this info. (Having previously read through the info, but forgotten specifics.) Good reminder ... and I ordered the NAS6605 bolt to try that first.

Also ordered the Matco axle components because I've been concerned about the torque situation on the bearing cones.

No shimmy or other perceived problems beyond the 'creaking' ... but time to act before it's worse.
 
Reason I ask, I have the same issue. I've tried several attempts to locate the issue, but cannot for the life of me find it. I tried tightening the nose gear attach bolt to no avail. I thought it may be the nose wheel, so I had Anti-Splat put on new bearings and balance the wheel. That helped, but when turning the airplane either with the tow bar or while taxiing, I will get the noise. I'm glad I'm not the only one, so it seems it's perhaps common. I may next try a larger attach bolt next. I'm just hoping someone has solved it with a definite solution.
 
Reason I ask, I have the same issue. I've tried several attempts to locate the issue, but cannot for the life of me find it. I tried tightening the nose gear attach bolt to no avail. I thought it may be the nose wheel, so I had Anti-Splat put on new bearings and balance the wheel. That helped, but when turning the airplane either with the tow bar or while taxiing, I will get the noise. I'm glad I'm not the only one, so it seems it's perhaps common. I may next try a larger attach bolt next. I'm just hoping someone has solved it with a definite solution.

See post #3
 
Just removed nose gear over the weekend to track down the 'creaking'. The removed bolt was in decent shape, except for some scoring, which may have happened during removal. The washer however was distorted and completely destroyed. So, I bought some .311 interference bolts to replace the standard bolt, but later decided I didn't want to ream out the existing holes to fit the new bolt. Since I had an extra gear bolt in my stash, I just replaced the old one with the same sized hardware. I greased up the two places on the top of the strut where it 'touches' the engine mount/gear strut insert. I had my wife inside the plane to help me out, so we decided to place the bolt with the nut towards the firewall. Yes, this causes the bolt to extend in towards the cabin, but the plug we used was sufficient to cover the hole and the nut. After installing and tightening the nut, I did a pull/turn test on the gear by pulling it around the ramp and turning the gear to it's limits, both sides and NO CREAKING. The times I'd back the airplane into the hanger and turn the gear, I'd get the creaking all the time, so now it seems very smooth. I'm hoping this was the final time this ever needs to be addressed! Hope this info helps.
 
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