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Tip-up Final Fit Tweaking

BillL

Well Known Member
It was perfect . . . then something changed! This is repeated many times. While it likely may be futile in the real world of temperature changes, I persist
nevertheless.

I am not a multiple offender, nor an expert, nor bragging on results, merely sharing some findings. Why? For me the canopy was the most demoralizing, sleepless night, head aching, and mentally challenging part of the build.

The perimeter can be broken into zones, measurement variables, and changes that may affect one or more of the issues.

Measurement variables are gap and stagger, or offset. These can be applied to the full perimeter.

Zones

Center front between the hinges. Changes - offset hinge bushings. But - these also affect side alignment, front gap and stagger/offset.

Out board of hinges. Also affected by the hinge pivots, but can be bent at the hinge point to raise or lower. If needed then add spacers for the skin down by the longeron. Very limited options for change once the canopy is glassed in.

Side skirts. Gap can only yield no adjustments, or outright replacement of the skirt. File if too tight, and replace if too high. Some adjustment may be dependent on the fit of the canopy to the roll bar. Offset or stagger. See photos below - if overhanging the fuse skin, then the inside of the rail can be stretched. Use the small flat rivet sets in a pneumatic squeezer and place the squeeze points near the edge spacing based on whether the it is an even bow or a "vee" shape with a point. Careful, 5-8 squeeze points will push out the rail by .030. Test and sneak up on it. What if you go too far - or it starts sunken from the fuse? Then use a bending bridge with a 2X4 and a block inside. Again sneak up on it. It is springy, so expect some spring back. Count the turns if needed. I did all the above on mine with the canopy bolted and glassed in.

Canopy match to rear window. With all the holes finalized this is limited to the flat portions. Sanding for gaps, and using some white nylon washers for spacers worked for me. They are nearly invisible from the outside.

Photos for entertainment.
Offset Bushings

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Squeezer

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Clamp

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Washers

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Note: I have no clue why the photos don't show. The method of sharing, permissions do not seem to have changed. I will try and fix.
 
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What did not work . .

This is to address what did not work for the offset/stagger of the front outboard skin match between the canopy and the F771 forward skin. I posted elsewhere, but will complete it here.

Stagger

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A hammer tool was made to attempt to form-up the 771 skin to match the forward canopy skin. Picture below has the offset/stagger measurements. Increasing pressure was used on the rivet gun, but nothing moved permanently. Since all the offsets are in a curved area, the skin will have to stretch about .060" over the 80 degree arc to move up the skin by .040". The hope was that the tabs were depressed during riveting. That was not the case here.

Here is the forming tool. The polypropylene back lays flat against the sub panel.

Tool

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More text and pictures to come on this. It is not going to be a tweak but some rework.
 
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Hey Bill,

Keep your fingers crossed things don't change when you rivet the front top skin. ;)

Andy, it DID change. It was a perfect fit until that front skin (F771) was riveted on. Then all this tweaking. I am going to make a new custom skin to fix the offset/stagger issue on the pilots side.

I just hope it all does not change again when the new skin in reinstalled. Hope is not much of a plan, and expect it to change again. But not much.
 
Pictures

I have shared the google album and rechecked it.

Can everyone see the pictures?

Can no one see the pictures?

Thanks,
 
Bill,

We swapped posts on the other thread. I can see some potential issues with the tool you made. If you want to discuss, you can call me at 601-879-9596, or email me [email protected] with your number & I'll call you.

Charlie
 
What did work . . .

So, the stagger on the curves outboard of the canopy pivots was show in an earlier post. Here is what worked. Removed the F771. Added shims to see if that would effect the desired match. It worked very well. All the holes matched except for the L/S longeron. A calculation indicated that the longeron holes had to be .060" lower on the skin to match. This was almost the exact amount needed. After understanding what was needed, a new F771 was purchased along with a blank. [shipping cost was obscene, another story] All holes were match drilled, perimeter modified for gap control, and the longeron (L/S) holes were dropped .060" along with that edge. Processed all as originally and the finished product is very satisfying. The mate is not perfect, but well within thickness of the skins.

The only reason for posting this is to let others know what might work. I think if care is taken when the subframe is installed, all this could have been avoided room for shims would be available. I just did not have a good perspective of the design and its sensitivities at the time. So if you find yourself wanting to get rid of the "scoops", this is a very straightforward way with no risks. 40 hrs, could have been 2 with some foresight.

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