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Elevator Bend -- What am I missing here?

Lemmingman

Lemmingman

Well Known Member
I may be over analyzing this, I have been known to do that. I hope to be making bends on my elevators today. My concern is that I can't find any specific information from Vans on the amount of bend. I have searched this site and found much useful information about the process. Nobody seems to have had this question before. The instructions simply say read section 5G, which is the process for bending.

But as I study the plans there is no notation anywhere, that I have found so far, as to the number of degrees of bend. All the posts I read seem to indicate that the amount of bend is "enough so that the skins meet the spar with no flex back". This, I assume, is gleaned from the hand drawn diagrams referenced in the 5G process?

So is that it? Just bend it til it touches?
 
Lemmingman said:
I may be over analyzing this, I have been known to do that. I hope to be making bends on my elevators today. My concern is that I can't find any specific information from Vans on the amount of bend. I have searched this site and found much useful information about the process. Nobody seems to have had this question before. The instructions simply say read section 5G, which is the process for bending.

But as I study the plans there is no notation anywhere, that I have found so far, as to the number of degrees of bend. All the posts I read seem to indicate that the amount of bend is "enough so that the skins meet the spar with no flex back". This, I assume, is gleaned from the hand drawn diagrams referenced in the 5G process?

So is that it? Just bend it til it touches?
Click to expand...

Pretty much yes. I used a wooden dowel rod taped to the inside of the trailing edge to keep it from creasing. Mine isn't exactly perfect, but I've seen MUCH worse! Here's is a good write up:

http://www.rv7factory.com/log/050821.php
 
my first try to post

i just started to look at this sight and want to try a post. i built the bender shown with six hinges and found the ends bend more then the middle so i did what i did 20 years ago for my 4 two boards on each side and c clamps to do the bend by tighten them a little and then inspecting the bend with a straight edge to determine the bend as show in the hand drawn picture. use plenty of clamps if you do this but yes to the dowel and yes to having the skin sit on the spar after squeezing the trailing edge.
 
Welcome!

bill v said:
i just started to look at this sight and want to try a post.
Click to expand...

Welcome to VAF, Bill! Normally it's the experienced builders who welcome the new builders, but since you're an experienced builder, I figured I should turn the tables as a new builder and welcome you aboard. It's a great site with great people and great information changing hands every day. I like that on your very first post, you offered advice. That's the spirit!

--Stephen
 
Use 1/4" dowel rod and make the wooden brake with a 1/4" space in between the boards, and press down from the middle. I've made this bend a dozen times and all have come out perfect if you have the gap in between the boards. It also make the skins less susceptible to being pushed away from the brake as you make the bend.
 
sounds like a good safe way rocket bob

rocketbob i could see the problems with the bender but not the fix i will be writing your post instrutions on the bender i have before someone wants to borrow it
 
I have been asking myself the same thing. How much to bend as in the drawings there is no clear reference to the radius. After surfing a lot and asking here, I found a reference in the RV-Ator book that states that the radius to bent should be 3/32". If I can calculate well, that means the rod should be 6/32" ideally to achieve an inner radius of 3/32".
There is a lot of debate ongoing about this rod size and wheater 3/32 is the inner our outer skin radius. I would say, if you go with 6/32" to start with, it is close to what you want, if it is not enough, you can still bend a little further.
 
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