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  #1  
Old 10-22-2013, 04:17 PM
jerry sparks jerry sparks is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Scottsdale AZ
Posts: 33
Default Page 11-03

I tried to install my first nutplate and the plans said to use a temp screw to help hold the nutplate. The 8-32 screw would not go thru the hole in the flange. Also the drawing says SB187-2 left side. What is that? This is my first attempt at this hope it goes thru. Jerry
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  #2  
Old 10-22-2013, 05:02 PM
Ron B. Ron B. is offline
 
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Location: Yarmouth, Nova Scotia
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First make sure you have a 8-32 nutplate , they can be hard to size. The nutplate thread is crimped a little to make the nut lock and not come loose. this crimp makes threading the nutplate hard if not secured. Try to use clecos to secure the nutplate to your piece being attached to first then inserting the screw with the appropriate driver.
I don't have my manual handy but a SB187-2 might be a snap bushing. They are black bushings that fit into a hole to protect wires and such.
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  #3  
Old 10-23-2013, 06:30 AM
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propsync propsync is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 310
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Jerry, what are you using to rivet?

I used a pneumatic squeezer which makes it a simpler process. I didn't use a screw or a cleco to hold the nutplate. With my spar laying flat and the flanges up, I inserted 2 rivets into the rivet holes and through the nutplate. With my left hand I held the left rivet in place (thumb on the rivet head, index finger holding the nutplate. Then I simply squeezed the right rivet. Don't crush your finger

Tom
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  #4  
Old 10-23-2013, 06:34 AM
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propsync propsync is offline
 
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SB187-2 is a small black plastic snap bushing. It gets installed on the face of the spar, look for it in figure 2 on that page.
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  #5  
Old 10-23-2013, 10:55 AM
jswareiv jswareiv is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 473
Default Nutplates and Jig

I would like to say this was my idea, but I stole it from someone else. I didn't like the idea of CS'ing into the nutplate, so I made up a couple of Jigs. The result is perfect every time. For the jig, I took a piece of 1/8" aluminum and drilled a 426 rivet hole #40 bit, then attached a nutplate with a cleco and drilled the other rivet hole. Once both holes were secured with clecos, I drilled a hole through the screw hole with I think a #21 drill bit to make sure the hole was centered. Then I got it to a correct size for the CS pilot to fit in it perfectly. I had to file down the rivets a little to keep them from protruding too much from underneath, which would have interfered with the CS cutter. I used Duct tape to hold the rivets in because on the MS21053-L08, you have to flip it over, so both sides of the jig are CS for the rivets. Now use the cleco clamps to hold the jig in place and go for it. I spoke with Bob at Avery and he said he may make this jig if demand calls for it. Best advice... always practice on scraps until you get it perfect. More advice... always read carefully as to which side the nutplate goes on and read at least the whole page you are working on (at least), before you start. I thought I was going to be buying a new spar, but alas, it was fixable and those nutplates are for a "future" power supply for lights. Hope this helps.
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Last edited by jswareiv : 10-23-2013 at 10:57 AM.
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  #6  
Old 10-23-2013, 01:49 PM
jerry sparks jerry sparks is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Scottsdale AZ
Posts: 33
Default nutpates

Thanks everybody. big help
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