Preserving a crated engine

So thankfully, the engine I was looking at buying has no corrosion in it, despite having been vertical on an engine stand for years (see the previous thread @ http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=93563). I've plunked down the money, and it's on a truck making its slow trek from SoCal to Cincinnati.

I've bought the Tanis preservative kit, and it's easy enough for me to yank open the crate, spray the cylinders inside, and put in the dessicant plugs. But seeing as the engine is in a crate, I can't follow the Lycoming SB, which has me run the engine up to temperature to distribute the preservative oil mix.

So, since I don't have a way to actually run the engine, what are the best access holes and ways to distribute the preservative oil mixture to the critical locations? Yank the jugs and pour directly into the opening to cover the camshaft and crank? Just call Lycoming and get their opinion?

Somewhat related - what's the best handyman tool for grabbing hold of the crank's prop flange to manually turn the crank?

Thanks!

I wouldn't turn the crank.........

Get some oil in it and physically turn the motor over - you boys are good and strong !!

The vapourising oil and regular squirts of T-9 should be fine.

Then, when you are finally ready, put a few quarts of oil in, spin it on the starter to distribute, pre oil and thin down any waxy bits. Dump that oil before running.

Then go for the start, run that oil no longer than 5 hours, then start the break in.

Engine Stand

Buy a cheap engine stand from Harbor Freight and then you can turn the whole engine over once a month by yourself. Mount it from the engine mounts, not the crank!

Hi guys. Okay, a few more follow-on questions. My knowledge of handling engines is still potholed, so bear with me.

Mike, I really was doing a when you told me to physically turn the engine over, until Kurt posted up.

Kurt: I'm buying an engine hoist at HF to get it out of the crate anyway. I'll also go ahead and pick up the stand. Any idea if the cheap 750lb version is okay, given that engine is ~325ish?

Now, here's the connect-the-dots part where my knowledge is potholed. The engine's a conical mount. I get the idea of mounting it to the engine stand. But while reading HF reviews on the stand, everyone says you need your own bolts. So... What hardware do I need to mount this darn gas-to-noise converter by its mount points to the stand?

Thanks!

Ultimate engine storage protection method

Scott,
You've been given good info regarding placing the engine horizontally on an auto engine stand and occasionally rotating it to keep everything lubricated. I don't know how humid Cincinnati is, so I do not know how easily things rust there. Where do you plan to store the engine? If it will be in an air conditioned space, you can leave it on the pallet and do nothing further.
Filling the engine up completely with oil, is the ultimate protection for storage in humid environments. See the thread linked below for all the details of how to do this, if you feel that is what is needed. See

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=48554&highlight=filling+engine+oil

Charlie

These guys have given you excellent advice. Get an engine stand with four casters vs. three...it will be much more stable. I bought an engine two years ago, changed the oil and put four quarts of fresh Phillips XC 5-40. I turn it every time I am in the hanger, stopping every 90 degrees to let it fill with oil. You can buy rubber stoppers at the hardware store to plug the various holes to prevent leaks. Find the crank position where all valves are closed and then don't move the crank again. Remove the top plugs and give three or four squirts of oil in each cylinder then replace the plugs. The conical mount will make it easier to fabricate the mount. This should do it.

Jim