Help! I have a Lycoming O320-E2D and need some tech help!

Just got home with my RV6-A kit (30% finished) a month ago and got a Lycoming O320-E2D engine with it. My local A & P mechanic told me that it will probably need to have some pretty expensive upgrades because it came out of a Cessna 172 and the fuel tanks are gravity fed. I am NOT a mechanic, but can I send pics via e-mail to someone out there and have the rear of my engine looked at to see if it has already been modified? I understand that if it was taken out of a 172 and has not been modified yet, it'll probably be easier and less expensive to sell this engine and buy an engine set up for my RV6-A (in a couple of years when I get it ready to fly) If you can help me with this, feel free to call me, 270-393-0115 (my office) or e-mail me at [email protected]

Thanks,

Dave C.
Fletchvan

E2D

The first problem is it's only 150hp. The accessory case may not be set up for a fuel pump. That case can be expensive. You could always go with electric fuel pump(s).
Can be modified to produce 160hp.
Get a 0-360 at least. You don't want to suffer from little engine syndrome.

Accessory Case can be machined to accept fuel pump for a about $200.

PM me if you need specific info.

Ken

You don't want to suffer from little engine syndrome.

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Despite what some might say, your airplane will fly just fine with 150HP. If you're the kind of person that feels a need to keep up with the joneses, then by all means do so. But 160HP is not the minimum for an RV6 to fly.

You actually have a couple options with this engine. You can either have the accessory case machined for a fuel pump, then purchase a fuel pump and associated hardware, or you can design your fuel and electric systems such that redundant electric fuel pumps are very safe.

Many on this board have all-electric fuel delivery systems, and this is what I am planning as well with a 150HP E2D. Many others have had accessory cases machined. You've got a lot of good company either way you go.

Mods should probably move this thread out of the Classifieds though.

Dave,

I sent you a PM.

krw5927 said:

Despite what some might say, your airplane will fly just fine with 150HP. If you're the kind of person that feels a need to keep up with the joneses, then by all means do so. But 160HP is not the minimum for an RV6 to fly.

Mods should probably move this thread out of the Classifieds though.

Click to expand...

Yep, my RV-6 flew very nicely with a tired 150hp E2D. My engine was purchased from a well-know salvage yard and came from a 172 with a fuel pump ready accessory case. I never did figure that one out......maybe the logs weren't for my engine???

The engine was rebuilt as a 160 and has happily flown the RV-6 for the past 975 hours.

Dave,

I bought an O-320 E2D out of a Cessna 172 for a project and here is the way to tell if a fuel pump will work. Take the pump cover off the back of the case and look for a push rod approximately 1/4" in diameter hanging down from the top of the hole. Mine had it, so you won't know until you look. I bought a Tempest pump and will look up the number if you need it.

Jim

Hi Dave, Have your A+P check the log books for compliance to the oil pump AD. If that is good, then leave the motor alone. Get information on how to store it for long term and do that. By the time that you are ready for the motor, you will have your fuel pump answers. Does it have the carb? They can be hard to find.

Two electric fuel pumps are cheap, easy, and safe. You can find all of your answers here at VAF. Figure out how to do a search.......... or just ask when ready.

If it will need a TOP overhaul, think about rebuilding the rods when you have the cyl's off. This motor can only use a fixed pitch prop. This is what I have on my 6A and I really like the performance, ECONOMY, and the way it handles with the light front end.

Read this from end to end and relax..... http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=80928&highlight=electric+fuel+pumps

Lyc

In addition to the rear case mod you will need an idler gear with the eccentric lobe to drive the pushrod and the pushrod itself.
If you go the two electric fuel pump route you should have a completely separate backup electrical system to power the backup pump in an emergency. This can be simply a very small battery dedicated to the backup pump with some kind of chargeing system.
The E series engines, if factory stock, have plain steel cylinders. For certified aircraft the 160 conversion requires nitride, chrome or nickel cylinders. This is NOT required for a homebuilt. So if you want to do a top overhaul and upgrade an option is to use the 0 320H pistons which will poroduce around 168 horsepower. There are a LOT of E powered homebuilts flying with either 160 hp or H pistons with the plain steel cylinders. I know of one that is using 10-1 pistons with no problems. You have plenty of time to find a used case machined for fuel pump on ebay or barnstormers. These run anywhere from $75 to $300. There are two style accy cases, one for the bolt on cam gear, one for the intregal(non removeable gear).
If your engine has no prop strike history and looks good, stick with it.

E2d

I went the route of machining the accessory
Case to receive the mech fuel pump. Had it done
By Divco. I bought a cam gear and rod on eBay.
I plan to keep it at 150 hp so I can use less expensive
Auto fuel. Taking the cylinders off and checking the round
Is easy. Check to make sure the hydrolic valve lifters
Are not frozen or pitted. The exhaust valves should also be checked
To make sure they are not pitted. Best to have an AP check it all out
Watch and learn. Not to expensive to have the cylinders overhauled
If needed. New 160 hp pistons are about 100 each. Rist pins are thin walled
On that engine and need to replaced with thick walled (50 ea) if you change out the pistons or if certified need to be replaced regardless.