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How would you fix this?

mattasmith12

Active Member
Hello all,

I've got an email out to Vans for some official advice. In the interim, I wonder how some of you might approach this. I made a bonehead move and mis-drilled the holes in the side skin that mate up with the F-612 back flange.

This is going to be in a somewhat visible area...even though it's a TD. I don't plan to replace the whole side skin. I do think it would be acceptable to add two strips of joggled aluminum in the red areas I've illustrated. This will allow me to fill the mis-drilled holes with rivets and add the row through the flange of the F-612. It'll at least look intentional.

Any opinions?

-Matthew

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I?d dimple those and just add rivets to nowhere. Then fill them at paint time. You could also countersink slightly and use oops rivets.
 
I agree with Kyle. On the first problem, just dimple and fill the holes with rivets.

In the second picture, the one with the red hashes, you've got inadequate edge distance for those countersunk rivets. Shoot, there's a couple of rivets that are overhanging the edge of the flange.

From the center of the rivet hole to any edge of the patch strip is greater than 2.5 times the width of the rivet you use. For a countersunk rivet that's the minimum edge distance allowed. For a universal head rivet it's 2 times the diameter.

If you use a AN426AD 3-4 (3/32" in diameter and 4/16"th in length) rivet the distance from the center of the rivet hole to the edge of the material your drilling into can be no less than 7.5/32" or .234"

For a AN470 rivet which isn't countersunk, it's twice the distance not 2.5 times.
 
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Pretty sure the rivets ?overhanging the flange? actually aren?t; it just looks like it because of the shadow of the wood block.

I agree with Kyle; fill these with NAS1097AD3-3 (Machine csk) or AN426AD3-3 (Dimple). Redrill the flange to the skin properly. Just maintain proper spacing between your rivets
 
Sounds like a better plan

These 6 holes are the only ones that haven't run right down the center of a flange. And that's because I measured once and drilled. I should know better. Oops!

I think I'll take Kyle's suggestion and fill these with Oops rivets after countersinking. The holes are close enough to the flange that I fear dimpling might interfere with it.

And yes, it is the shadow from the wooden block that creates the illusion of improper edge distance. Those dimpled rivets are all properly spaced and set through the F-612.

Thanks for the input! I'll build on. This minor cosmetic blemish just adds character.
 
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