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  #1  
Old 01-14-2021, 12:39 PM
Tram Tram is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Florence, AL
Posts: 652
Default IO-360-M1B - Fixed pitch but prepped for C/S..

So, I'm a long way from making this decision but right now we are planning on going with a fixed pitch prop.

Spent 15ish years in a 6 with a FP and had no complaints, not looking to start the debate up..

All that said, planning on ordering an M1B when the time comes from Vans and I figure it'd make the most sense to just go ahead and get it setup from the get go for C/S just incase plans changed several years down the road.

What needs to be done in the initial order - just let them know we'd like the hollow crank?

Last edited by Tram : 01-14-2021 at 12:42 PM.
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  #2  
Old 01-14-2021, 12:56 PM
PhatRV PhatRV is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Buena Park, California
Posts: 395
Default

I ordered a Sensenich carbon fiber fixed pitch propeller + IO360-M1B combination. The engine came prepared for constant speed. I think all M1B engines are configured like this. I had to convert the engine for FP which is easy to do, no poking holes in the crankshaft like illustrated in the Vans manual.

The conversion starts at post#17 of this thread.
https://vansairforce.net/community/s...=190965&page=2
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  #3  
Old 01-14-2021, 12:57 PM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Worland, Wyoming
Posts: 1,508
Default

Ya as far as I know the M1B from Van's always has the hollow crank. It will also come with the governor drive/pad and the oil line to the front.
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  #4  
Old 01-14-2021, 01:41 PM
Steve Iacoviello Steve Iacoviello is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: The Woodlands, TX
Posts: 42
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PhatRV View Post
I ordered a Sensenich carbon fiber fixed pitch propeller + IO360-M1B combination. The engine came prepared for constant speed. I think all M1B engines are configured like this. I had to convert the engine for FP which is easy to do, no poking holes in the crankshaft like illustrated in the Vans manual.

The conversion starts at post#17 of this thread.
https://vansairforce.net/community/s...=190965&page=2
If you remove the oil line to the governor pad you must poke the hole (or remove the inner plug).
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  #5  
Old 01-14-2021, 02:29 PM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Southwest
Posts: 1,296
Default Just me

I did not do it this way by removing the oil line.

Just make sure the front crank plug is in and the governor cover has the milled slot. Leave the tube and stuff as from the factory. Easy peasey.

For cs, add governor and pop the front plug out of crank. Done and done.

Too many people have damaged cranks trying to remove the line and puncturing the rear crank plug; that was the old school method and dont need to do that with the new engines.
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WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

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  #6  
Old 01-14-2021, 05:13 PM
PhatRV PhatRV is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Buena Park, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Iacoviello View Post
If you remove the oil line to the governor pad you must poke the hole (or remove the inner plug).
I am not an expert in Lycoming engine so don't take my advice. This was the instruction by the Lycoming tech rep and I followed the instruction to the letter when converting from CS to FP in order to keep my engine warranty. Even Vans tech support told me to contact Lycoming. The local A&P, a very reputable guy, would not agree to punch any hole into this new engine, and adviced me to call Lycoming instead.
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RV8 standard build: Empennage 99% completed
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Fuselage -- Canopy Done. Fiberglass 80%
Avionics Installation -- 90%
Firewall Forward -- Prep for cowl install
Electrical -- 90%

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  #7  
Old 01-14-2021, 07:17 PM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
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Location: Worland, Wyoming
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PhatRV View Post
I am not an expert in Lycoming engine so don't take my advice. This was the instruction by the Lycoming tech rep and I followed the instruction to the letter when converting from CS to FP in order to keep my engine warranty. Even Vans tech support told me to contact Lycoming. The local A&P, a very reputable guy, would not agree to punch any hole into this new engine, and adviced me to call Lycoming instead.
It is in the plans. See the attached image.
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  #8  
Old 01-14-2021, 07:32 PM
Anon455 Anon455 is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 51
Default Starting block

Tram, If you've not done so already, you might want to start by reading Lycoming Service Instruction 1435 and/or the operator's manual to your intended engine.

S.I. 1435
https://www.lycoming.com/sites/defau...ce%20Versa.pdf

Engine Owner's Manual
https://www.lycoming.com/sites/defau...2060297-12.pdf
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  #9  
Old 01-14-2021, 07:51 PM
Steve Iacoviello Steve Iacoviello is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: The Woodlands, TX
Posts: 42
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PhatRV View Post
I am not an expert in Lycoming engine so don't take my advice. This was the instruction by the Lycoming tech rep and I followed the instruction to the letter when converting from CS to FP in order to keep my engine warranty. Even Vans tech support told me to contact Lycoming. The local A&P, a very reputable guy, would not agree to punch any hole into this new engine, and adviced me to call Lycoming instead.
As others have pointed out Lycoming requires the inner plug removed or a hole punched. An alternative is to leave the oil line in place with the proper cover on the governor pad. Not poking the hole will result in high oil pressure between the two plugs forcing the outer plug out and a significant oil leak in flight. Not good.
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  #10  
Old 01-14-2021, 11:28 PM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Southwest
Posts: 1,296
Default lycoming

So the Lycoming tech rep told me to not poke any holes in any plugs, leave the governor line in place and make sure the governor cover had the slot milled in it. I followed the factory recommendation. I believe the hole poking comes from the old days when the governor cover did not have the milled slot connecting the governor oil tube to the center of the governor pad. Without the slot, the tube would not allow the hollow crank area to vent and oil pressure will blow the front plug. Many people have damaged the cross tube in the crank trying to poke a hole int he rear cover; this is why I chose to leave the line in place and verified the governor cover was the correct one for fixed pitch props.
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WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

Dues paid 2021, worth every penny

RV9A- Status:
Tail 98% done
Wings 98% done
Fuselage Kit 98% done
Finishing Kit 35% canopy done for now
Electrical 65% in work
Firewall Forward 5% in work
Fiberglass 0%, thought i was building in metal?
www.pilotjohnsrv9.blogspot.com
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